Absolutely! Which is why I added the Linkinds..
My most recent additions were Third Reality leak sensors, both pooling and drip detectors placed in locations where leaks may occur (water heater, washer, dishwasher, and under kitchen and bathroom sinks), and a LeakSmart 888000 Automatic Shut-Off Valve, all Zigbee. I know people who have had water damage, so I thought it would be a good idea to get the valve and have it installed. The sensors were easy to set up. There is no cloud needed for this setup so it will operate even if my Internet service goes out.
The biggest thing that kept me from doing this earlier is that we have polybutylene plumbing and I did not know the condition of the pipes. Turns out they are in great shape for the age of the house (built in 1992). Still, with the reputation of polybutylene, I wanted some insurance against leaks. I found it with this setup.
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I am adding a Kasa Video Camera with motion, etc. It requires some development. Of course, I will have to develop the control and warning driver as well as try to figure out how to get connected to the dashboard and/or have a dashboard link to play the video in a browser. But one of the commands identifies the link to the stream as well as the lateste snapshot.
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I have added a hot water recirculating pump, powered by a smart outlet. It works well but I am still deciding the best way to automate the on-off of the pump at appropriate times.
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Most recently I've re added a couple of Fibaro Motion sensors that were sitting around unused. I've installed them in IP65 boxes externally - front and rear, with just the sensor window exposed and powered with 5V supply rather than the battery. I've added these to get external lights switching on more accurately. Sunset with offset gives variable results due to cloud cover and this solves the issue.
Slightly disconnected but relevant, I've added additional contacts to windows on my Honeywell Dimension alarm. As I'm using an MQTT integration in HE, and a Honeywell EvoHome integration, this has allowed me to use RM to switch off heating in individual rooms if the window is open for more than 30 seconds. The MQTT is also allowing me to use the alarm systems sensors for motion lighting in HE.
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If you have an Android component to your system, you should consider [RELEASE] HD+ - Android Dashboard - #1788 by jpage4500. Adding a video feed is quite easy.
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Kudos for making the effort to bring together different platforms to get what you needed....
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Do you have any existing bathroom occupancy routines for lights, fans, etc?
If so, just use those to trigger the circulation pump.
It will trigger false events, like someone just going to the toilet will cause the pump to run unnecessarily, but it will solve the issue of having instant hot water when the sinks are opened. It will work until you can, or decide to, tweak it.
This does not take into account things like the laundry room or dishwasher.
Thanks. I’m quite surprised I got everything working as although I consider myself “techie”, home automation has been a rude awakening for me! However with a lot of help from this community I’m learning all the time. I could probably name around 10 of you who regularly provide answers and assistance. This community and its members are the best.
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I am still learning too. 
My most recent routines THAT work.
Adding contacts to the pantry door to kick on the light above it powered by a smart switch. At some point in the future, I may install an LED strip inside the pantry so we can see the rear of those dark shelves.
I noticed the first few times my wife encountered it, she looked up at the light coming on, then off at the close of the door. After that, she has said nothing, No comments = WAF high.
Duplicated the idea with the hall closet, along with replacing the hall light with a nice bright LED bulb and smart switch.
I have to keep things simple and go long time periods before introducing new (buggy) things, else the WAF drops like a rock.
Currently working on bathroom occupancy for different times of day (modes) and discovered what I believe to be a bug in the GE Zigbee Dimmer driver OR in Simple Rules. The dimmer does not seem to respond to a Set Level (on) command whereas a GE Zwave dimmer switch in the bedroom does.
So beyond the issues your focus is bathroom occupancy for lighting.... A common request, including those that look at humidity and temperature as well...
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Temperature/humidity adjustments to the ceiling fans at night are in the future.
This can be huge when females hit a certain point in life. If you can develop something that monitors hormone levels, then adjusts temperature and air circulation, you should be able to retire both rich and famous. Perhaps even revered.
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One of the things I've started to do that has met with approval is turning on the exhaust fan for a brief period AFTER the bathroom lights turn off. For showers etc also test for humidity as well because you want the fan running as the humidity builds.
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Most recent addition was a pair of Ubiquiti switches, a 48 port and a 16 port. Both provide PoE to some devices in the house, plus networking of course.
No special Rules or such yet to directly control anything on them though. Not sure if I will even... But it is nice to think I can.
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Toying with @bptworld 's LIFX pattern controller.
I'm an 'indicator light' kind of guy and have long wanted some sort of HE light panel. The 8 zone LIFX strip is kinda much, but it might work.
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I do not have any devices in the bathroom, my wife will not go along with any bathroom updates. She likes things the way they are. Where have I heard that before.
I am running the pump by time (wake up-lunch-dinner-bedtime) only at this point. I tried to use motion sensor zones to start the pump, but the problem there is that the pump needs to run for at least 5 minutes before the hot water gets circulated sufficiently. So if I get up from the couch and go to the bathroom (depending on the length of stay) the water doesn't have time to get hot. I am still thinking about this so I may come up with something eventually. The way I have it scheduled now is working somewhat. Thanks for the reply.
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That is probably the most efficient given the 5 minute delay for water to circulate.
As I don't have a circulation system - is that a normal time frame? We get hot water to back of the house in less time.
Last Fall I installed an AmbientWeather WS-5000; recently purchased the lightning detector and a couple soil moisture sensors. Set up a soil moisture sensor (with notifications on Hubitat Dashboard) to see if it will help keep the cast iron plant alive (one in a series of the supposedly indestructible plants that we always manage to kill by overwatering).
Using the AmbientWeather integration by @snell and LG Smart TV driver from @cybrmage I now have the TV display WebOS notification (message text box that pops up on the TV and dismisses itself after a few seconds) when it starts/stops raining or if there's a lightning strike nearby.
Last night we finally got the first thunderstorm since I set this up; it was fun be notified of the first lightning strike 17 miles away. Unfortunately after the first dozen lightning strikes the novelty began to wear off. We'll see how long it takes for that to drive me crazy enough to disable it...
While not fed into Hubitat, one of my newer additions in a software defined radio dongle, that I’m using to slurp up the signals from my gas and electric meter, so I can track my usage directly from the meters.
I also recently added a Zooz main water shut off value, although that’s slightly less interesting.
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Yep my wife does not like any "noticeable" devices in the bathrooms.. To her the motion sensors look like cameras or some other spying type device. She is also frustrated when the fans come on when she is taking a shower. She wants to feel in control of this for some reason 
That's why I started having the fans come on AFTER the lights got turned off. It also works well if you have any children who probably could care less about fans or odors or humidity.
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