I did at first but the reason I changed it was when the physical switch is used with these bulbs it shows in the devices page but it doesn't update the groups.
I'm feel like you @codahq. It seems like what I set for these Zooz devices and reporting are ignored. After seeing your comment here I did another look at these and could see how my changes were taken into consideration. I might finally be getting it but maybe @krlaframboise could best explain how these values work. He did a lot of work on his DH for Smartthings.
Values highlighted in yellow are the results after changes seen in the lower half of this pic. This one device does seem less chatty now than before making these changes.
I guess I never really understood them until I looked at them again. I turn everything off except power reporting. If I understand it correctly they will send a report no matter what at the interval specified in "Power Reporting Interval". They will send a report no matter what when the amount changes by the value specified in "Power Report Value Change". They will send a report no matter what when the previous reported value changes more than the percent specified in the "Power Report Percentage Change".
I think that's how I'm understanding them to work. So... essentially those conditions are "OR" together. I always considered them to be attributes of one single report which I think is wrong.
I had previously that that I would get the report at the interval I specified but only if one of the first two things happened during that interval. Today after some fidgeting I'm seeing that I get the report if any of those conditions is true. Now that I understand it (I think) I like it better. I had the change percentage set too low and when a device (washing machine, dishwasher) was active on those plugs the logs would go crazy.
I think I have it sorted out so that my alerts will still work but the reports will be much more reasonable.
Correct, but I think they all have a disable option so you can restrict it to a single condition.
Had to post this screenshot here...
So my wife came home last night, disabled the alarm with the keypad then reenabled it and forgot to wave her hand, so the light was on on the keypad from about 10pm till about 9:15am when I was leaving this morning. When I saw it was still on I waved my hand and that was that. The keypad lights went out and never came back on. The lights at the numbers would flash quickly randomly but was unresponsive in every other way. Decided to buy some batteries and sure enough, that fixed it. So it went from 60% which was the last reading in hubitat, to not enough power in about 10 hrs .
So I had to manually set HSM mode in the dashboard when we were leaving. I dropped my wife back home and she asked about the alarm as you see...notice her next question when I sent her the link to the dashboard?
Always the best conversations trying to explain things. Feeling like a fool...
16 posts were split to a new topic: Hub not rebooting properly
Alkaline batteries start at roughly 1.5 volts. Power drops off gradually until they hit somewhere around 1.1-1.2 volts where they no longer supply enough power for most electronic devices. 60% was probably the end for your batteries.
On a side note - I've just hacked power to some old ST motion sensors by using a simple switching power supply bypassing the need for batteries. Has been working really well for me.
Something like this:
And wiring that top connector to the +/- of the battery terminals on the devices. Also played around with using a usb cable + small step down transformer. Got that working as well.
I am not that savvy with things electrical but these are relatively simple low-voltage hacks. Haven't burned down the house or zapped any devices so I consider that a plus as well...
That's a pretty flexible little power supply for around $10! Good find!
yeah that's a ripper.
I'd just need to twist those AC pins so they'd fit into the Aussie power outlets and I'd be away.
So you could try cutting a usb cable and using the red/black wires and affixing them to a step-down transformer.. I used these..
There are other cheaper units as well... just attach/solder the usb wires to the "ins" and have some wires on the "outs" that you then attach to the battery terminals. You do need a multimeter to test the output voltage though.
You too? I was the SmartThings original KickStarter backer and beta tester as well on V1 and V2 hubs. And Now my V2 ST hub was recently crushed by a garbage truck compactor. My wife was so re leaved when she got her wish. She always wanted to take the hammer to the ST hub.
One more personal thought to the OP.
SmartThings does not yet let you migrate from one hub to another. With Hubitat, you can restore your last back up to the new hub when you need to move.
Did the Sengled bulb issue get sorted out? I used the driver above, and it works, but I have a color bulb and can't change color with it.
Hubitat now has built-in Sengled specific drivers that should work and support the last gasp power off messaging unique to these bulbs.
OK, awesome. Is there a way to make it go back to the default state it was at before power off? I have mine set to 0 as the default state. If the power goes out and comes back on, I want it to match the state of a different smart switch I have. Is this possible?
Not within the bulb’s firmware itself. Sengled bulbs, like almost all smart bulbs, always revert to On when power is applied to them.
Do you always want this bulb to match the state of the smart switch? If so, you should be able to create a rule that keeps the smart switch’s state and the smart bulb’s state in sync.