Water Shutoff options for CPVC Ball valves?

I have these types of CPVC ball valves for the water main shutoff in the basement:
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All of the ZWave water shutoff devices I've seen, seem to be made for valves such as this one, with a longer handle:
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Are there no water shut off devices made for the CPVC ball valves with the shorter two sided handles?

Haven't ever seen one. My guess is the risk of an over-torque either direction cracking the plastic is a liability no (reputable) manufacturer wants to take on.

How about the Zooz Titan?

EDIT: Not recommended for CPVC

From Zooz's Titan FAQ:

  • CPVC: No. We don't recommend using the shut-off with CPVC pipe since this typically isn't stable enough for the device to work correctly.
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OK...I stand corrected.

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I am in same situation and just waiting to have guts to install a ball valve on the copper portion of my line. I already have the Z-Wave Dome Water Shutoff that was installed at previous house.

CPVC is basically not recommended to use, at all, ever. Its what gets used when the builder says the lowest bidder is too high, make it lower. If you look at it funny it is likely to break in half.

So yeah... I would avoid turning that valve at all, especially not with a motor.

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As others mentioned, you're looking at replacing it anyway. When you do, take a look at installing a smart valve instead of a regular valve with an actuator.

If you do this, make sure you also install a bypass circuit with two valves: one to turn the water on if the automated valve gets stuck in the off position, and one to turn the water off if the automated valve is stuck in the on position.

The former of those possibilities happened in my old house with a leaksmart automated valve, and I’m very fortunate that I’d installed bypass valves.

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The Sinope valve can be operated manually - the control head is easily removed for that purpose. I would definitely look for that feature in any motorized valve.

I have a regular ball valve in series with it.

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So can the LeakSmart. The actual gearing mechanism within the valve that’s sweated on broke ….. and was very very hard to move manually.

Here are the details:

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Yeah your method is definitely the best for dealing with such a possibility of failure.

I have mine on a 3/4 pex line with push fit couplings. Had to take it off once as the flow sensor’s turbine got stuck somehow (immediately replaced by Sinope, no questions asked) and that turned out to be a pretty simple operation.

EDIT: should mention this design allows removal of the complete control head and leaves you with just the ball valve to operate manually

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