Hi - I've been reading up on LED light strips and I'm hoping I can get some guidance. Some background:
The current kitchen cabinets lighting is as follows (old style LED bulbs):
1 switch controls 2 sections - one is about 2.5 ft and the other is about 6 ft
Another switch controls a 2. 5 ft section
A third switch controls a 8 ft section
I need to have physical and Hub control the on/off as well as the light strips (color, white temp - HE only). I can't change out the switches because they are matched to the plate and the back splash.
My current thinking is:
Use Sonoff ZBMini behind the swtiches (they are paddle switches) to get HE control
The LED strips that I am looking at are GIDERWEL 16.4 ft RGBW (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B5D6DZS1/). I think these can be cut to the appropriate length, Q1: Does anyone know if the cut section can be used or is it throwaway?
I haven't decided on the LED controller but am looking the GLEDOPTO (Amazon.com). Q1 : Is this a true RGBW controller? Q2: Does this work natively with HE (does not need a Hue or Tuya hub)? Q3: My understanding is that this does not come with a power supply- any recommendations on what to get?
Please let me know if I should be looking something else or if you have any other suggestions. Thanks for your help.
I have a Ginderwell strip that looks allot like that. It is cuttable and you can use the cut strips as long as you connect another controller. Becareful with all the tiny wires.
Read up on what ia needed foe good diffusion. You may want to try one strip and one diffuser and see how they look together. If it doesn't diffuse well enough a d you have hot spots showing you may want to go to a strip with higher density.
The strip you linked is rgbww meaning it has both cool and warm white pixels. So you need a controller to match that. The strip i got a while back actually came with a compatiable controller from Gledopto and it integrsted fine into Hubitat. The power supply depends on the LED strip. Most Gledopto controllers support a range between 12 and 24 volts, but you need to check the strip first to know which one.
You could look for a Ginderwell kit that includes the controller and power supply as well. Since you have power already there what voltage is provided to those locations now. It may be compatible. I already to plan to use existing the 12v power supply running to each location in my house when i do something similar. Basically i am going to position the controller under with the strip and just run the power that is already there to the controller. It will mean i need several controllers, but i wont need to do anything for power to each location. It also allows you to upgrade from the single white to whatever you want including a RGBIC soluiltion if you want.
My suggestion is to switch to high density COB LED strip right away.
And with COB strip you don't need the diffuser unless you want it for a different reason.
I just put COB lighting on my stairway. I've not seen them in RGB. Also they are VERY bright. The lights on my stairs is running at about a 1% on time.
I have found a few COB strips onamazon that are RGB+CCT which seems to indicate tunable white. They all seem to be 24v though so that could be a consideration.
The thing to be careful with cob is power requirements though it seems that has gotten allot better. COB strips use to use allot more power for the length they were.
You may also want to consider the CRI rating. A high CRI can reall make colors pop.
Maybe, but you don't have to drive them at 100% to achieve the same brightness. However no visible dots is a huge improvement. As of today I converted all my LED strips to COB style and cannot even think to use non COB LEDs anymore. The improvement in lighting quality is outstanding.
I don't see 24 Volt as an issue. I have an LED strip behind the plants in my photo. I have a Zooz RGBW controller and a 24V wall wart.
The stair strips I just installed a week ago. Each stair requires 375 ma (at 12V). I built a controller that only turns one step at a time so the demands on the power supply are minimal.
Just a note; I will only purchase powersupplies that are UL LISTED . I will not purchase one that is "built to meet UL xxxxx" For me CE or ETL is not adequate.
Problem was probably the wrong word. More of a consideration if the OP was thinking about using the existing power supply.
Also the power supply needs to be rated for atleast 20% more power then the possible max draw of what is connected. It doesn't matter if you only run it at 1% all the time. Depending on what is being connected that could be an issue.
Thanks - thoughts on these? These are RGBW - they come in 3000K, 4000K and 6500K, so assuming the white is not "tunable"? https://a.co/d/7mwIJsP
The strip specs are recommending a 24V 3A power supply. Requirements per specs are:
Red: (5W/3.2FT 20Lm/W) Green:(2W/3.2FT 95Lm/W) Blue:(3W/3.2FT 10Lm/W) White:(4W/3.2FT 70Lm/W). My runs are going to be a max of 9 ft. The same company has a zigbee controller that accepts 5-24 V with a max output of 15A (https://a.co/d/0TqZmtl).
Will this power supply be sufficient?
@JohnRob - recommendations on power supply? I have a link above and it does say UL Listed but can it be believed ?
Correct - I will not be using an existing power supply.
Thanks everyone for your suggestions and guidance. This has been very helpful
EDIT: Has anyone used this particular controller with HE? Or should I assume that anything that is Zigbee 3.0 will work with HE with either the bulit-in or community drivers?
(https://a.co/d/0TqZmtl)
Looking at that controller it appears to be 15Amp acros the entire controller. Then it says 6 amps per channel. Not sure how those numbers align, but i would say that means a max of 6 amps on a single strip. At 24 vols though 6 amps is still a good amount of power though at 144watts.
If you do connect a second strip to the second V+ connection then you probably need to be able to supply that full 15 amps.
No white pixels are truly runnable. Generally when a device says it is tuneable it is some kind of combination of a cool white and warm white pixel that makes the ranges possible. Either way it will simulate other white colors by including the RGB. If you have a preference though for specific CT then use the strip that has a dedicated pixel for that CT.
Not sure about the UL rating. I find it hard to believe. I would look for a known good brand vs just the cert. The output seems to be a little low as well. I wouldn't get anything less then a 3amp power supply just to be on the safe side.
@mavrrick58 - thanks for the suggestions, much appreciated.
I will not be connecting a second strip but I will need to cut one (from 16 ft to 7 ft) and use a portion of the cut length (about 3 ft) to "extend" the other section. Total will not be more than 10 ft. There are 2 other cabinet sections (9 ft and 3 ft) that will have their own strips, controllers and power supplies.
Any recommendations on what to get? I think the input in the controller uses a 5.5x2.1mm DC jack.
The link is for a RBGW controller. The power supply where the UL listing is important is the mains to 12V or 24V.
See this video to get a better understanding of the potential problem with mains powered supplies.
Does anyone know if the cut section can be used or is it throwaway.
They can be used. The only issue is can be tricky soldering wires to the exposed copper. And it's important to cut EXACTLY where they indicate if you want to use the cutoff section if you wish to solder to both sides of the cut. If one side is the end of the run you might wish to cut them closer to the end of the run. Look here.
You could use connectors but I've always gone the solder route (more reliable).
OH you should verify the controller is compatible with your Hubitat hub.
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