UK Light switches – My experiences (2021)

🌎 Around the World 🇬🇧 UK
41

Might be an unstable Zigbee mesh.

Have you tried keeping the hub close to the switch or the other way around (if possible)

https://docs2.hubitat.com/how-to/build-a-solid-zigbee-mesh

Can you post the results for your zigbee network using this link?
http://hubitat.local/hub/zigbee/getChildAndRouteInfo

42

The switch is located about 4m away though a timber wall, my yale back door which is currently connected to ST which is just beyond that work floorless.

Below is the current results with the device not responding

Parent child parameters
EzspGetParentChildParametersResponse [childCount=0, parentEui64=0000000000000000, parentNodeId=65535]

Child Data

Neighbor Table Entry
[Kitchen Light Switch, 5933], LQI:255, age:4, inCost:1, outCost:0

Route Table Entry
status:Unused
status:Unused
status:Unused
status:Unused
status:Unused
status:Unused
status:Unused
status:Unused
status:Unused
status:Unused
status:Unused
status:Unused
status:Unused
status:Unused
status:Unused
status:Unused

43

You are running to concurring zigbee networks? One From Hubitat and one from Smart Things?

If so, you might consider making sure the zigbee channels are seperated several channels

44

Yes while only while I test and move over the few devices that are connected.

I have just check and both are on channel 20, I have just moved the Hubitat to channel 12, i will remove and readd the switch

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45

Please copy and past the Model and the Manufacturer from the device web page "Data' section.

46

Depending on where your wifi is, i would recommend 20 and 25

This map might help

47

You can also check this :

Devices with manufacturer IDs _TZ3000_fvh3pjaz _TZ3000_9hpxg80k _TZ3000_wyhuocal suffer from this 2 minutes drop off, except the on/off clusters binding is skipped during the initial ZigBee pairing.

We need to identify the device first - manufacturer and model from the Data section are needed.

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48

Details off Amazon

  • Manufacturer ‏ : ‎ Yagusmart
  • ASIN ‏ : ‎ B082K7KRP1

details off the switch

  • manufacturer: 3A Smart Home DE
  • model: LXN-3S27LX1.0
50

This is not a typical Tuya device, so the Tuya drivers may not work.
But I think that the 3A Smart Home devices are supported by some HE inbuilt drivers?
You can also search this forum for "3A Smart Home" posts, hopefully there is a link to the right driver.

51

The solution I went with for my lighting is as follows:

MK grid switch (I'm using the 20A momentry push switch, MK part number K4910WHI (these are available in different colours, chrome, etc). I just use the existing switch wires that run up to the ceiling rose - my 1980s wired house has no neutral at the switch, and no room in shallow boxes for the zigbee modules.

Then I've been using Sonoff ZBMINI for the normal on/off lights, and various Candeo Zigbee units for dimmers.

All of the zigbee modules will switch, and the Candeo modules switch and dim using the MK switch - push to turn off/on, push and hold to dim up/down. No zigbee or controller needed, so are a downtime-proof solution.

You'll need the grid frame and a faceplate too, but they're dirt cheap if you visit a local electrical wholesaler (I pay less than £1 each for the grid and faceplates, the grid module is about £4, the Zigbee modules are variable depending on Amazon or AliExpress sourcing).

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52

I have tried two 1 gang switches to date, the Aqara Smart Wall Switch H1 (Neutral used) which was troublesome to get working but eventually started behaving itself using the generic zigbee switch driver and the Yagusmart Zigbee Smart Wall Light Switch (no Neutral) which worked straight away using the generic zigbee switch driver.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B095K9G44H?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08FM3FG38?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

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