I picked up 3 of these a few weeks back - they arrived today
Thank you ever so much @kkossev !!
I had done about 3.7 seconds of googling, came across this thread, and had everything working in about 5 minutes. Gotta love it.
edit: I picked up 3, not for spares, but since I have 2 outside garage doors, 1 interior garage door, and a swing gate. Yes, I should have got 4. Meh.
Can I simply attach the 120V wires to the screw connections and rest the device on the top of my garage door opener as described in their documentation?
I had always been under the impression that all 120V connections had to be made in an electrical box. What would I need to do to use the device and meet the electrical code (Ontario, Canada)?
Would it be sufficient to:
a) Place the device inside the outlet dedicated to the garage door opener and route the low voltage wires from the device through a small hole I could drill in the outlet faceplate.
OR b)
Place the unit in a grounded junction box with solid cover.
The 120V plug would exit the box to be plugged into an outlet.
The low voltage wires for sensor and switch would exit the box at a different ferrule.
That needs to be inside a work box as described in your solution "b".
Also, for what it's worth, @kkossev's driver is for a different TuYa device to the one that you linked to, so I am unsure if it will work for you. His driver is for this device:
If the driver is automatically selected when the door controller is paired to HE, it should work.
There are many variations by different manufacturers, so @CarlS in the case it doesnβt work please post the device manufacturer and model from the device web page Data section.
Thanks aaiyar.
So even if I wire it as per b), I'm still sitting the fence as to whether or not I should be concerned this is not CSA or UL approved.
Any thoughts?
Well, I also have a couple devices that are not CSA or UL approved. But I tend to install them in ways that are "safer" in my mind. I don't have any such devices inside a work box that's in a wall. Both of mine are in surface mount work boxes.
I had been trying to find a working zigbee garage door setup for some time, anyway, I ended up getting the aliexpress version and got it working. It's been about a month and has been 100% reliable. So for those of you that prefer a video tutorial of the setup here is the link Zigbee Garage Door Opener In Hubitat - YouTube
Has anyone tried the HomeKit integration with Hubitat? I was able to get the Tuya Garage Door driver and device working in Hubitat, but when I try to add it to HomeKit, only the contact closure comes through and not the actual "switch". Homekit reports when the contact is open or closed but it does not allow control. Am I missing something?
The new built in HomeKit integration blocks garage doors and door locks by design, due to apple bridge certification rules (which they are working towards). It can be shared via HomeBridge though, but that requires a separate server to host it.
Thanks for that information as it explains everything!
Do you know if you can run home bridge (which I was before the HomeKit integration), in tandem without messing anything up? I can add just the door locks and garage door to home bridge and leave the rest under HomeKit if advisable. Thanks.
Yes, you can have many bridges connected to homekit at once. Thats what I plan to do once I am confident the new integration will work well. I am just testing it in a "test" home right now. Any LAN/Wifi devices, and custom virtual drivers are also excluded from the built in integrations.
A more convoluted option is to setup a virtual switch to represent the locks/garage door paired with RM to sync it with the actual devices. I do this with Google Home for my locks.
I had concerns about the electrical safety, so I installed it this week by loosely placing the device in a metal junction box with a solid metal cover. The box is attached to one of the grounded metal braces holding the opener to the ceiling. The driver listed above worked great!
Now here is my problem. After a couple days, I had intermittent unsuccessful commands to OPEN and CLOSE, and sometimes opening only 1-2ft then stopping., My initial thought was that the wire terminations had loosened due to the vibrations of the opener. I secured them again, and it worked well. But when I installed the junction box cover, it failed. I moved the device around inside the junction box to ensure that the cover wouldn't not contact the pairing button, and that the wires were not strained by the installation of the cover. It works well until I put the cover on, but as soon as I place the cover on, it fails.
Duh! My closed junction box act like a Faraday cage preventing signals communicating with the device? Any recommended fixes? I've attached a link to a video showing my problem
Yes you basically need to do this for the yellow button 2.0 openers:
You can order it pre-made from them or make one yourself.
Once you have that, you can put any momentary dry contact relay on the end of it to open/close the door.
Does anyone know if _TZE204_nklqjk62 pairs correctly on C8? Mine works fine on my old C7 hub, but no luck pairing on C8 (it pairs but no communication...). Any luck?