I've tried some hacky products that go over a couple paddle switches to make them smart... and they're all poorly constructed and the current set, which has now been removed from Amazon , makes a really loud clicking sound when it turns on. I don't know if they're knock off products though as they came in a Third Reality box, but now Third Reality has a new product page for the ones I have (minus thur hub or bridge).
These are similar to what I have:
THIRDREALITY Smart Light Switch (Gen 3 Starter Kit) Control Any Toggle or Rocker, No Wiring Required. 1 ZigBee Smart Switch Gen3 and 1 Hub Gen2.Compatible with Alexa,Home Assistant and Google Home. https://a.co/d/cgutD7o
Are there any other solutions?
One switch controls in ceiling lighting (3 bulbs) and I was going to get smart bulbs, until I looked and found out that my landlord did a quick paint job and painted over the plates/sides, so I can't remove the lights without potentially damaging the painting.
The other switch controls the bathroom exhaust fan.
In both scenarios, I'd like to not change any of the wiring. If it's replacing the switch itself, that's ok. I've seen some GE Z Wave light switches but a quick search tells me to avoid them. Anything more than simply changing the switch itself would mean getting my landlord involved and just creates complexity.
Zooz switches are bang on....even better that they aren't (comparatively) expensive.
You can use an Xacto knife around the sides of the fixture to score the paint. Leaves a really thin, unnoticeable line and will prevent the paint from peeling.
If you want to replace the switches, the trick will be the neutral. If you have a neutral in the box you can use almost any smart switch, but you will probably have to add a pigtail to the neutral bundle to make the connection to the switch. Without a neutral your options are limited.
One of their switches should work OK on a bath fan, would have to look at the specs. Also the ZEN30, the bottom relay button can work on a fan since its a dry contact.
I'll have to look at the switches in a bit, as this house is a mix mash of electrical wiring. It's an old house, and it seems like whenever the wiring was redone it was done kinda recklessly or something as there are some two pronged outlets and some switches have a neutral and some don't.
The Zooz do look like exactly what I'm looking for though, so I'm hoping they have a neutral.
If I got the Zooz, it'd be my first Z-Wave device. Does Z-Wave have about the same range as Zigbee or at least better than Bluetooth?
Should be better than Zigbee, it is lower frequency so better penetration through obstacles. Bluetooth is intentionally designed to be low power and short range, so that's not a good comparison.
Can greatly depend on home construction, but if you are already using Zigbee without issues then Z-Wave should be OK. Metal boxes or metal in the walls can impact performance, or even thick lathe and plaster construction has been known to cause slight issues.
Do you have a C7 or C8? The C8 has much better Zwave performance due to the external antenna.
Would the Zooz switch work with these? Without taking the switches out (didn't realize it was so dusty!), I believe there's a neutral. The thing that's kinda off to me is that previous outlets and switches I've replaced had the the red and black cables on the side and then a ground on the other. Some of these switches appear to have a cable attached from the back. I haven't replaced many, but is it fairly easy to unhook and reconnect the back cable? (Provided these work with the Zooz).
Also, I have a C8. This house is a wireless nightmare as it has some metal walls, then exterior is cinder block and my room is like a faraday cage lol. Thankfully Zigbee works great. Bluetooth takes a significant hit stepping outside my room.
Those look like standard “push in” connections on the back of switches.
One strips the wire to bare a short length of copper (usually a guide for the length is on the backside) and pushes the wire in a hole where it is grabbed and held mechanically in place.
To remove a wire, there is normally a small slot adjacent to the hole where you can insert a tiny flat blade screwdriver to release the mechanical hold.
If the white wire I see is a neutral, then you should be able to use Zooz switches.
I have no idea. I live with my partner and it's their parent's house.
Anyway, these are the Zooz switches on Amazon:
Zooz 700 Series Z-Wave Plus On/Off Toggle Switch ZEN73, White | Direct 3-Way (No Add-On Switch Needed) | Z-Wave Hub Required https://a.co/d/gv4vWnV
While searching for them, a switch from UltraPro came up and it's also Zwave, though it looks like it's on Gen 5... not really sure how much that matters as the distance between the Hubitat and the switches is about 10' away. They're $10 cheaper, but seem to be good quality:
UltraPro Z-Wave Smart Toggle Light Switch with QuickFit and SimpleWire, 3-Way Ready, Compatible with Alexa, Google Assistant, ZWave Hub Required, Repeater/Range Extender, White, 39354 https://a.co/d/j1tmgZr
Should I just go with the Zooz for the newer technology and brand?
One to ceiling lights (three very small lights) and one to the bathroom exhaust fan. The third one I have a cover for right now as they go to standard zigbee bulbs and I have a Phillips Remote to control them along with a presence detector. Right now, when presence is detected the zigbee bulbs turn on automatically and I now want the ceiling lights and exhaust fan to do the same.
Looks like a straight forward replacement. Hardest part is getting the neutral.
Zooz does (has always) provide a short white jumper wire with each switch to help with neutrals.
The switches look pretty old and the wiring is a bit of a mess. One approach would be to communicate openly with your landlord that you would like an upgraded smart switch and you’re willing to pay for the switch. Ask if he would spring for an electrician to do the install in exchange for the upgrade and his ability to keep the smart switch after you move. It’s a win win. You buy the switch and get the solution. Landlord improves the property. Both protected from risk given the pro install.
If you owned the home you can just do it yourself but as a renter I wouldn’t do it given the liability issue.
That looks to me like someone drilled a hole in the top of a wire nut and made it into a splice fitting. You can see where the inner thread sleeve broke through the plastic.
, makes a really loud clicking sound when it turns on. I don't know if they're knock off products though as they came in a Third Reality box, but now Third Reality has a new product page for the ones I have (minus thur hub or bridge).
