I have an application that requires a remote sensor. I found a Tuya Zigbee water leak sensor on AliExpress that has a remote probe for less than $9.00
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mMQC7Dy
Amazon has it for less than $15.00 but the estimated delivery date is over a month away. This probably means it is coming from China also, but on a slower boat.
This integrates directly with HE using the ‘Tuya NEO Coolcam Zigbee Water Leak Sensor” driver from @kkossev. The Tuya hub is not needed.
Thanks, How long is the cable?
Just the wiring is 36”.
....and you can use a cable to extend whatever length sensor the device comes with. I used a 3.5mm stereo cable w/the Tuya Coolcam to get from the body of the sensor by my attic access door to where our steam shower generator is located.
This is the one I was referring to...sensor is on a 3.5mm plug.
So it was easy - IIRC I plugged the new cable into the main unit, and plugged in the sensor at the other end (female) of the cable.
Thanks,
I found them on Amazon for $18. I like the miniplug connector for the probe. It's planned for below my dishwasher going through the floor to the base unit. This will make it easy to change batteries.
Is the local beeping alarm of any use? The beeps on mine are very low key. So much so, I strapped the sensors to a (cheaps) local Watchdog brand alarm. I had one under the kitchen sink, in a plastic tub that holds dishwasher detergent, other bottles of stuff, etc, without a sensor strapped to it, and it kicked off once for a slow leak in a drain pipe. Quite loud. Maybe not aesthetic, but I don't mind, plus it keeps the sensor in the proper orientation:
I use the Ecolink FLF-ZWAVE5-ECO freeze/water sensor for several applications.
I have a RO water purification system with a storage tank. When the tank is full, the water sensor signals Hubitat to shut off the RO system and also to announce that the "RO water level is high". The only time it has ever failed is when the battery was dead. Fortunately, I have a second water leak sensor (old Smartthings sensor) beside the tank as a backup. That sensor alerts Hubitat to shut off the main water valve to prevent flooding the basement.
I also have one of these sensors on my sump pump pit to alert me of a pump failure/pit overflow and one behind my refrigerator to alert me if the ice maker supply line springs a leak. Each of these applications requires a extended probe.
Being paranoid I have redundant leak sensors. The Tuya sensors on AliExpress are inexpensive.
Every 6 months I test them by putting them in a plate of water.
Absolutely!!!
My wife has a friend who lives in Chicago, but has a condo inherited from an aunt who lived in Palm Desert, CA. They live in Chicago in the spring, summer, and fall, but Palm Desert in the winter. One day when they were in Chicago, they received a call from a neighbor in Palm Desert indicating that water was running out from under the front door. A pipe had burst resulting in thousands of dollars of damage to the condo and its contents. Purchasing a few leak sensors, a Hubitat, and a controller to shut of the main water supply valve would have been a far less expensive option that replacing flooring, carpet, drywall, appliances, furniture, etc.
Years ago a plastic line on the water softener cracked around midnight. The leak sensor detected the leak and shut the water off. About 2 gallons of water migrated to other rooms because we were asleep and didn’t use the water to know it was off. I added an Aeotec siren that will wake the dead so as soon as a leak is detected I can lessen the damage.
I do something similar. If a leak is detected my Ecolink siren/chime sets off a siren tone and then loudly asserts: "A water leak has been detected and the water has been shut off". It repeats this a few times to insure that anyone home can hear it, even if asleep.
I already have a Z-Wave main water line shutoff. I hadn't decided is/when the dishwasher leaks to shut off the main water or just shut off the electrical switch to the DW. Or perhaps both.
I plan on running the sensor cable through the floor which will provide both ease of changing the battery and physical indication of any leaks (dripping from the ceiling in the basement.
I simply just slip one under the dishwasher. Front baseboard cover comes off easily. I also have one under each sink in the house on the floor. 1 mounted to each water heater with a probe in each pan. (I run tandem water heaters). About once a month I test one at random.
Sensors at every sink and behind each toilet, under dishwasher, under fridge w/ ice maker. Water heater and AC drain (same floor location), sump pump well, Water supply cutoff valve after pressure tank and shut off switch for well pump power. I have a rule that test cycles the shut off valve once a month to keep it from sticking. Our cleaning person manages to test the system every couple of months.
Not so much after I add the kitchen baseboard. Besides I'm going to drill a hole in the floor anyway. When I installed the recently leaking DW, I shot myself in the foot. I created an RTV "dam" around the installation so more water had to leak before I saw it (didn't have a leak sensor).
With the addition of this sensor, everything with water has one or two leak sensors.
I even have a sensor in the A/C (attic) evap overflow pan.
Unfortunately I seem to have been adding something after a problem has already occurred. But with this addition I will have a sensor under everything that could leak, with the exception of the water meter.
Unless you turn off the dishwasher supply valve under the kitchen sink, there is always a possibility that the feed line between the valve and the dishwasher inlet fitting will rupture or leak. Turing off the power to the dishwasher will do absolutely nothing to stop the water flow. You need to cut off the main water valve until the dishwasher supply valve is turned off.
To avoid a potential electrocution hazard, turning off the electrical supply would also be a great idea, but by itself, it is not sufficient.
I'm on a well and have a smart shut off valve as well as a smart switch for the well.
I've toyed with turning off the valve at night, but then the system sucks air if, say, a toilet is flushed. A lot of spitting when the water is turned on in the AM.
BUT....it just occurred to me, that if I just turned off the well pump switch, and not the valve, I'd still have some residual pressure in the (not large) tank, maybe good enough for one flush, or so. Hmmmm....
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