I think it does go into a standard 1/2" knockout. You will want or need a conduit locknut. The device is plastic, so either plastic or metal locknut should work. I would probably use plastic if I could find one.
That will work...and for future reference this guy is a bit smaller and will work with 120vAC OR 24vAC OR 24vDC. and gives you normally open(NO) and normally closed(NC) dry contacts.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004KNPRBK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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I was looking at all types of other relays, it is real hard to find a low amp or dry contact relay. This seemed to be the best match. Everything else seemed to be this huge contactor or something way too complex to explain how to wire through the internet.
I did see that relay you linked, it was basically the same price, and no threaded nipple. The one I show works on 10-30V too.
They are probably the same thing in a different package.
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Also...if you don't mind a bit of a more uglier approach...this is the actual relay I used on mine:
Yea, those are pretty ugly. And depending upon where they are mounted, have exposed terminals just asking for little fingers to touch them.
But in the right place, would be a great choice. And inexpensive.
Yep, this was my alarm:
And that got screwed into the blank part below the switches. But...this thing sits 6' off the ground in the corner of my basement behind some water purification. So getting to isn't exactly easy.
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Interestingly, there are two TYCO relays in the enclosure that look just like that, mounted on a DIN rail next to the LOGO controller. Perhaps I should have posted a picture as well as the drawings! I might have been able to fit a third one onto the din rail with a little effort...
No worries, I expect what @neonturbo proposed will work, and it triggers on what I really need to know, (when the alarm is going off), but it might be interesting (useful) to connect a second Aeotec to whichever of the TYCO relays is used for the Pump, as I could then track how often the pump is operating.
S.
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I didn't know there was a DIN rail, or I would have recommended one of those.
It would be interesting to do like you say and add a second sensor to verify operation and runtime.
Yeah, totally my fault, I should have posted a picture of the actual panel instead of just throwing the drawing out there. It's all good, if this one works, it's always an option to pick up a DIN rail mount one and install it onto the DIN, saving the first one for a spare.
I'll definitely get another sensor and try the pump monitor as well! Another excuse to spin up Node Red...lol
S.
That would have been nice. I tried to get mine in the box but there was a transformer in the way....
So in addition to my alarm...I use an AEON HEM to monitor that line. When the pump runs I store the date. If the pump hasn't run in a week it sends me an alert. That's my clue to check on things BEFORE the alarm goes off...as we all know, once the alarm goes off, the tank is already full. I determined the week time frame based on usage pattern from knowing when it was running. It turns on a virtual switch when the pump starts running and then turns it off when it stops. I also have an alarm on that switch if it runs for more than 15 minutes to send me an alert (the pump usually only takes 10).
I'm glad to see some others in here with the tank alarms....seemed like a very natural fit for the automated home yet very little out there for them.
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Here's a picture of the Panel. The relays are RPM22F7s in RPZF2 carriers.
Theres a long story about why I have a Tank alarm, but suffice it to say I had $2K of work done on my septic to fix a clogged distribution box, which ended up costing me $14K, and involved relocating my septic tank. Once that happened, the county said...Oh, by the way...you have to have this "Alarm Panel" which took 3! breakers in my already overpacked panel, and left me with something that goes off every now and then and annoys the hell out of the neighbor, while it can't be heard in the house.
The old system "just worked", and if it hadn't been for the distribution box jamming up, I'd still be running it. No alarms. Grrrr....lol
Suffice it to say, it's a hate hate relationship with this stupid panel. LOL
S
Ugh. I hate it and I've only ever seen a pic. 
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Whew! Thought I was going to have to buy a new sensor. Just a mis-test. The relay should be here tomorrow. Looking forward to trying it out!
Thanks guys for the advice and help!
S.
@neonturbo would I need a 20 amp version of the relay to monitor the pump (IL1 &2 on the drawing)?
The RIBU1C Just arrived, so I'll likely install it this weekend.
S.
The 20 amp is the output rating. You do not need anything that heavy just to use as an input to a sensor. In reality, you could use a 1 amp or less relay to signal a sensor like you are doing. You just cannot easily get one that "small".
The more important relay rating for your usage is the input voltage.
Thanks!
I installed the unit, with the hot wire on the circuit breaker labeled A1, and the neutral wire on the common labeled A2. The pilot light comes on, and I have it connected to the sensor. Sadly, when I hit the test switch, which activates the alarm circuit, the sensor state doesn't change.
Never mind. I figured it out I think. The wires need to be on the A1 and A2 terminals on the relay in the picture, not on the always hot circuit.
I feel a bit stupid at the moment! Lol
S
Looking at the picture of the relay. (tiny picture!)
White should go to A1
White and Black should go to A2.
Yellow goes to one of the terminals on the contact sensor, and the orange the other. It shouldn't matter which.
Hmm. Ok, I was closer. I think its white black to A2, and white yellow to A1.
Then blue and yellow to the sensor.
Unfortunately, the sensor seems a bit flakey out there. I think I need to do a zwave repair withe the sensor near the nearest repeater to the septic box.
But we're close! I was able to connect it properly to AC and on test, the pilot light came on, only when the alarm circuit was on!
I had the sensor connected to blue (gray) and orange, it should have been the yellow.
Got too dark to continue!
Saturday for sure! Thanks @neonturbo !
S.
Score!
Success. When the "Oh Crap" alarm goes off, the Sensor detects an "open"!
Photo of stuff all stuffed in the cabinet.
Thanks @neonturbo and @csteele for your advice and suggestions - well and the whole design frankly @neonturbo.
It seems to me (giddy with success) that another sensor connected to the front side of SR should work too. Clearly something throws those relays.
But I'm not going to get too far ahead of myself here. Now it's time to make a useful rule to monitor this, and probably set up a battery watchdog as well.
Again thanks guys for your help!
S.
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