So i recently just moved my hub, and did a full exclusion and inclusion of my devices back into hubitat adding my 9 light switches in order into the hub by closest to furthest away.
But now one of the strange things is that my devices that are closest to the hub, almost 1 foot away are routing through other devices and my furthest devices are going direct. Doesnt make alot of sense to me.
Any advice?
The kitchen and island lights are the closest to the hub.
Won't change the routing, but unless there is a reason you want S2 I'd consider excluding and re-including without security - generally just overhead unless it's a border security device, i.e. door lock, garage opener, etc. Other than that, generally letting the mesh negotiate among the devices for a few days seems to work best.
I didnt know i could add them without security, how would I do that?
Should be a small popup during the include that asks you to confirm security, one of the options should be skip.
OK thanks, the other issue i find is that even the connection speed on my closest devices is much slower than the rest, and iv given them a few days to to work itself out.
Sometimes in-wall switches and outlets don't get out well due to the material used, i.e. metal boxes, wires in the walls, plaster with metal lathe, etc.
FHIW
I had a non-Plus device serving as a common routing point for a good number of Plus devices. Was that way for over a year. I finally got fed up with what I thought was a bottleneck and removed that common routing device. Waited a day or two and the mesh found what I thought (based on connection speeds) was a better mesh routing.
Added the original device back in and the mesh stayed in the "new" routing.
You can try doing an individual repair on the devices w/the 9.6 connections, using the individual Repair button on the Z-Wave details page for each device. Then wait several days and see if any re-routing occurs. May or may not, depending on the Z-Wave Gods. 
Frankly, at one point I had a couple switches connecting at 9.6 for ages and ages and it never seemed to matter as to their actual performance - everything worked, no issues. So unless you are seeing performance issues on the switches that are showing slower connection speed compared to your other switches, it's probably a case of "if it ain't broke..." 
This. Security only need be on for locks and garage stuff
That's good to know, perhaps there could be a message when adding zwave devices in that pop up asking for the zwave number it could say why you would want the security for new users. Because I thought i had to put in the security for it actually work.
Some devices require security - mainly border devices like door locks, garage door openers, keypads, etc. Others seem to work better with better with it (Ring Gen 2), although some people has success without using it, but switches, outlets, bulbs, etc. generally work better without it.
Heavy Security/S2 marketing by Z-Wave alliance/device makers ("We got security!!") has in part encouraged misunderstandings like this. Security is an add-on, not required as noted. Generally, I suspect most companies don't want to be caught telling customers that they don't need whatever type of security, as that could lead to problems later if a customer ever had any issue remotely related to security and decided to sue everyone they ever met. And I assume the Z-Wave alliance doesn't want members telling customers that the cool new security features in 700 series aren't needed.
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