Smartthings Guy Struggling with Hubitat - Please Help

Ok, full disclosure, even I say "Smartthings guy", I've had one for 6 months. Never one to half measure anything, I'm trying to learn the Smartthings Java-based code, Groovy (emphasis on 'trying') so I can leverage as much awesome out of this whole Smart Home/Automation. To someone who is actually legitimately skilled in this subject, what I have... created(?) would probably look like a giant rat's nest of random cables and wires, randomly sparking and smoking, but doing things nonetheless.

I've got everything talking to everything else, Tasker (HUGE fan), about 4,000 Tasker plugins, Join App (Obscure app, but key to integration of all), SharpTools app (This app should be part of Hubitat's world), IFTTT (giant fan), Google Home (meh), Alexa (in my Ecobee Thermostat), Ecobee Thermostat, Nest Protect, Wyze Cameras, Alfred Cameras, Meross Smart Powerstrip, 5-6 hardwired GE wall switches, a few plug-in smart outlets, maybe 6-7 smart bulbs, a couple ST water detectors, a ST multi-purpose sensor configured to detect the front door being open, and one Smartthings button that I have configured to toggle 3 lights together.

I run a few things through the ST Hub and app, I run many things through Tasker, a few through IFTTT, I can control most devises individually, if I want to, through the Alexa App (not a big fan of voice control, yet), the Google Home app, and the SharpTools app, but don't normally.

So that's probably more than you'd ever need to know, but I don't know. So I am starting to populate the Hubitat with devices, but at this point have only had it copy what it can from the two Smartthings integration apps and processes outlined in these forums (very well done, BTW).

Question One:
So far every device recognized by Hubitat thus far is as a virtual device based on what the Smartthings integration apps shared. Tried or False, In order to get all the Zigbee and Z-Waze stuff to actually work on the Hubitat properly, I need to have each of those devices set to scan mode simultaneously with the Hubitat scanning for new devices. Or can I just set the Hubitat to scan for new devices, manually switch each device through Smartthings, and Hubitat detects the signal and adds it?

Question Two:
Why did I purchase the Hubitat, what was I trying to solve? I bought it because I learned about the limitations inherent to a cloud based automation system. I'm trying to solve the problem of not having access to my devices, virtual and physical, if the internet connectivity is lost.

If the internet goes down, how do I access the Hubitat hub? I tried to use the local IP address, but that didn't work. Is there a way to tunnel directly into the hub, either OTA or hard cable, without the internet? If not, why?

That's it, thanks for any help and understanding of any of my questions are simple things I ought to know.

Pete

Ok.
1st ‘golden rule’
A device cannot be connected to both smartthings and Hubitat.
Start with a zigbee device and remove it from smartthings. Then put your hubitat into discovery mode and then press the button on the device a couple of times or whatever the correct sequesnce is to enable joining.
Google is your friend here to find put how to start your device joining.

As I have a few, I can tell you that most smartthings sockets that I have needed to be reset before I could get them to join.
After deleting from smartthings you need to power them up and hold the button at the same time.
The light will start flashing if done correctly.
When joining to Hubitat you need to set Hubitat to discover, then power the smartthings socket and press the button a couple of times.
You should see something found in Hubitat... now WAIT until your Hubitat finishes initialising what it found.
Then at that point go into ‘devices’ and you should see the socket listed.
Go into the page for the socket and click ‘configure’
After a while you will be able to switch it on and off correctly.

Andy

Thanks Andy:

Didn't realize that... fully. I had at some subconscious level started accepting that rule. I know this based on the fact that I was compelled to delete one of the integration apps. I didn't see any reason I needed or wanted Hubitat reporting to Smartthings what is virtual devices were doing.

So with that in mind, riddle me this: I'm thinking once I take the devices off the Smartthings and place them on the Hubitat, I'll want that app reinstalled. I base that on the fact that I still prefer the ST's app UI to the cellphone portal thing the Hubitat provides.

To the last point, I stated in the OP that I felt the Hubitat community would do well to work integrating with the SharpTools app for that specific reason. Then I was messing around with my Hubitat local portal and realized that not only are the Hubitat folks already all over that, but that I had actually already installed the SharpTools so on my hub. So yeah.... Nevermind about that.

So, if the magical interwebs goes away, should I still be able to access my hub via the local IP address (192.168.2.XXX)? It seems that the internet connectivity status should not effect the local wifi LAN, but mine doesn't load when I lose the connection. Is this normal or is there a magical switch I need to flip in my wifi router configuration settings? I'm going to dig around and see if I can find something.... What was the username and password for that again...??? That's right, I remember:

username: Admin
password: password

Kidding!!!!

Ok.. there is something you need to get your head around
Smartthings and Hubitat are NOT 100% compatible

You cannot use smarttings apps on hubitat and currently Hubitat does not have a mobile app released.
Some custom smartapps can be ‘ported’ to hubitat (with a few ‘tweaks’ they can usually be made to work)

Connection to your hubitat hub can always be made via the ip address PROVIDING your phone/tablet/pc is also on the same lan.
One thing to note if connecting wirelessly is that some routers block inter device comms when on wireless. You will need to check to make sure your router has this disabled.

Andy

Check out "Other Hub" app here in the forms. It allows a 2-way sync of device status between Hubitat and ST. So you can move your devices over to be controlled by Hubitat, then add them to Other Hub, where it will replicate a virtual device back to ST, which can be controlled through the ST app. Keep in mind though, as long as you use ST, you are still dependent on the cloud, which defeats the local control benefit of Hubitat. I used Other Hub extensively as a migration tool, but deleted it as soon as I had both my devices and automations moved over.

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It is ... unless I'm missing something about the point you're making. SharpTools integration is one of the native apps available out of the box. (or at least, after an update, depending what was installed on the hub when shipped).

Hubitat also has its own native dashboard app that runs directly on the hub itself, so you can configure some things to use in an internet outage situation without having to venture into the admin interface.

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When your connection to the external internet goes away, you should be able connect to the Hubitat on your local LAN by plugging its 192.168.xxx.xxx address into your browser. Just make sure you're using the local LAN IP address that portal.hubitat.com normally shows you when you click on the green 'i' next to Location Name in the Hubitat Elevation list screen (since portal.hubitat.com itself won't be accessible when the external internet isn't). I notice yours has '2' in the third octet; mine has a '1'; make sure you're specifying it properly.

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I figured out why it wasn't working. For whatever reason, my router was shuffling local IPs on a few things, including the Hubitat. So it's now a static IP, and it shall behave properly or it will get the hose. I haven't tried killing the internet and trying to connect yet, gotta wait till the Hulu binge ceases before I can do that. I'm digging all this, thanks you guys for bearing with me on this. I don't rite too gud, an stuf.

So I'm used to the likes of Tasker and IFTTT, as they validated a longstanding theory I would bandy about at IT people at work when they were trying to tell me something wasn't possible. Their computers, they will do whatever the hell they told them to. For the record, I really do love the computers, I'm a gadgetry kinda guy, you sort of have to be to get into this stuff! I'm as happy as a clam... right up to that point, and every single person reading this can relate to this, albeit likely responding in far more ma-toor ways. That point that it does something uncommanded for no reason and with no warning. Like when Word just disappears periodically after working for 3-6 hours. It Auto-saves, great, but that's the equivalent of putting a parachute which is too small for the pilot in his airplane because it periodically disappears and instead of fixing it, a couple broken legs a few hundred thousand ties a day is just easier than fixing it. Or when the computer or phone decides that it's too busy doing something I don't know about, care about, and will never care about it, instead of something like....opening Maps when I take a wrong turn, want to get a quick picture of something awesome, but ahhhh, nope.

I know, I know it's a computer, a machine, and it's doing exactly what it was told to do, or is failing a process because some coder at Microsoft played one too many matches of ping-pong at the office the day (s)he was writing that section. And I also know it's almost certainly at least partially my own fault for having 27 dancing cat video apps that seem to be far larger than they should be, but I'm sure it's safe! I get it, but when I light off because that stupid phone is so slow I could literally write the 1's and 0's on a napkin faster than it was processing simple things, common-sense and level-headed grown-up behavior works better. But hey, who amongst us is without their character flaws? Right? Like that one guy, T-Bone who beats up bums on the weekends, Freddy has no shame that he doesn't believe woman are actually people. I will admit that on occasion, while in the throws of man-truming, I am not above making very serious (at the time) attempts to shame the stupid computer or phone by telling it that the Voyager spacecraft, a calculator watch, and my first computer bought in 1986, a straight ballin' chick magnet, the venerable Macintosh Plus were all better add calculating things than it is.....I'm thinking that with Bezos's Alexa, as well as them WhizKidzs over at the Goog's who are both getting better at this Voice Automation thing, some day....Those stupid computers will feel bad. The best part, and I promise I'm not making this part up, but I have almost an infinite level of patience with almost all non-adolescent people, and in some ways too much. So no, I'd never treat anyone.....well, 99.99999% of people that way, but will and have overhand fast pitched a Samsung Galaxy S7 Edge into a cinder block wall because that absolutely worthles curved screen that I'll never accept again had decided I was going to do something different. Dudes....I was in awe......I've dropped an iPhone 5 (accidentally) from literally 2.5 feet onto a deck and the screen literally exploded out, in what I can only describe as an enthusiastically motivated way like it had been waiting for this all it's life. I was a little shocked, but didn't care, it was a dead phone anyway. But the S7 Edge? Yeah, so it survived it's introduction into Parcour, with a single crack in a corner, and the scuffed to hell. But then, I had that piece of garbage for probably 6 months after that, and (again, no shame here), I would almost on a daily basis decide the phone needed to learn it's lesson, and would smash the screen over and over on the steering wheel with as much force as I could muster. Sure, it frustrated me a little, but I couldn't help but be impressed as hell, that stupid thing cracked more, but never stopped being "functional" and worked right up until the day I got the best phone I've ever had, S8 Active. Thing is a brick poo-house, and I don't have to teach it lessons, it behaves ...mostly. Having really been looking up to a final, satisfying Mid-evil inspired beat down of the S-7 Edge, this wasn't a decision made lightly. But because I was so impressed with the sheer ability to absorb the ass beatings I would provide, and would have turned an iPhone to dust, I decided instead to allow it to live out it's life as a one of my Alfred Camera cameras. See, THAT is what I call, Ma-toor and reasonable!

So this may surprise you, but there was a point to all that, I have a question. So about 1500 lines ago, I mentioned a concept I truly believe. Computers should do whatever we want them to, it's nothing more than taking all those 1's a 0's and putting them all, in the exact order to make it work! I also mentioned that the Tasker family of apps, which I truly believe are the absolute most powerful tools anyone could learn to use, validated that concept. That app actually lives that phrase and I love it.

I have a Meross Smart Powerstrip which I had planned to configure in such a way that whenever my Internet went out (it does a lot), it would automatically cycle the power of the cable modem and router in a deliberate sequence. Well obviously that didn't work for obvious reasons, and compelled me to buy the Hubitat and get some new pen pals. I was saddened to see that Meross isn't on the Hubitat list of compatible devices. In the Tasker world, this would simply mean it was going to be difficult, but doable because you can put the 1's and 0's in the right order. However, Tasker does nothing for me with this situation for the same reasons ST is. So is it plausible to get your Java-Groovy Coding skills rocking and rattle out an app or handler that would let me do this? Or does Hubitat wag the finger at anything they having put the special sauce into?

That's all I got. And I'm sorry, but this won't really ever end. I really like writing stuff....

Pete

Looks like the Meross is probably a wifi device ... whereas Hubitat is z-wave and zibgee, you will struggle here I think. It's possible it might be reachable via telnet or similar but that would need an app and driver to be written and I'm not aware of one existing currently. Others may chime in with better ideas, but my own gut says ditch it and go buy a new surge protector that is z-wave or zigbee, or a smart-plug that can do the switching and just use the Meross as a dumb surge protector (but then the smart plug itself isn't surge protected [shrug]).

Good that you got the Hub to stop IP hopping, question: did you resolve that issue on the router, or on the Hub? The concern being that if the IP config is statically assigned on the Hub itself, the router's dhcp service probably doesn't know about it and might randomly assign that same IP to another device down the line, which would produce undesirable results. Of course if you did it in the router as a dhcp reservation, all good, nevermind.

Curious: How are you detecting when the internet is out / back, for automation purposes?

If your internet goes down whatever automation to restart your router needs to be fully local. I believe the Meross is just another one of those WiFi outlet modules with same chipset as most. Look for the TP-Link / Kasa integration which requires an RPI, it may work with the Meross and can be done locally only.

That said, it will be a lot easier and more reliable to just buy a cheap Z-Wave or ZigBee power outlet/module for your router...