Philips Warm Glow LED bulbs dim down to about 5% on Caseta, no buzzing, no flickering. That’s with 2 bulbs on a single dimmer.
For other lower wattage loads, getting a few LUT-MLC devices will help. They’re a resistor/capacitor series device that eats up the bounce that happens with caseta dimmers that can cause low wattage lights to turn on and off several times before staying on solid. Anything under 25W should have a LUT-MLC installed from the hot to the neutral somewhere in the switched section. I put 'em in the last light of a series, but it doesn’t specifically matter where, as long as they’re from the switched power to neutral.
I have 2 old GE/Jasco 45639/ZW3003 dimmers if anyone wants/needs them. One is unopened and in the old "blister"/clamshell plastic packaging and another is used for about 6 months but still working fine as I replaced it with an on/off switch. These will only work with halogen and incandescent bulbs.
I paid $15 for each of them when Lowe's was dumping the clamshell packaged ones. Please PM me if interested.
Couldn’t agree more. However, the hub does become the single point of potential failure, so I wouldn’t do this for anyone else without a spare hub on hand. The cost is so low, it makes a lot of sense to have an extra.
Hi,
I know this is an older post but I'm new.
Can someone provide a link to where I can buy the Lutron PD-5WCL I tried searching for it but every Lutron smart switch I see requires a neutral, except a dimmer switch (but I don't want a dimmer since the light I'm controlling is a ceiling fan/light combo and I read you can't use dimmers on fans).
All the switches (non-dimmers) require a neutral. However, you can use a dimmer on a fan if you separate out the wiring for the lights from the fan wiring. If you can do it, I'd put in a two gang box (if you have a single right now) and have two switches; One for the fan and one for the lights.
You will have to go through a Lutron dealer or electrical supply that will sell to consumers. Here's a link to what you're looking for. Take note the part number is different than what you listed but it's a Caseta Pro 2 wire switch.
This is not true. The PD-5WS-DV that others linked to above is a simple on/off switch that doesn’t require a neutral wire. I have several, with no neutrals in my switch boxes. And I’m pretty sure it’s available on amazon (or at least it has been in the past).
I bought one of the non-dimmer casetas a while back under the assumption that it would not require neutrals. Unfortunately by the time I was ready to install the switch and realized it required a neutral, my return period had passed.
Thanks for the link to this one...just ordered one.
I am not saying you should do this but some people think it is perfectly OK (and legal) to connect the neutral wire that the switch has to the GROUND wire in your box.
Yes- some switches that say they don't require a neutral ACTUALLY do run current through this ground connection.
Do your research before you try anything like this
Numerous switches that "dont requite a neutral" DO require a ground wire. If you don't hook up the ground wire they don't work... which means the ground wire is used as a current path. You can measure a few uA going down that wire. Say what you want... but look it up in the NEC before you dismiss the idea. That's all I am going to say about it... don't want to get into an argument.
We’ve had some neutral not required switches released in the UK by Den which actually click over the switches on the faceplate. They use earth leakage and were approved by the powers that be.
However the risk is that any earth leakage breakers sense this and cut your power. This is not going to happen with a couple of such switches but the leakage current is cumulative and so install a lot and you may experience this issue.
