Thanks for the response @672southmain I actually hadn't checked before and it's the FE469NX (which I'm assuming is the same just a different aesthetic as the BE) I'll take a look on eBay to see what I can find.
The lock was pretty good before but when I factory reset it last week, I actually filled the holes and redrilled the strike plate for the door latch and lock to ensure the best fit. The door fits super close and the lock moves flawlessly, so I know it wasn't that.
It is super frustrating, I'm just glad I have another smart lock now - luckily everytime the door dies we are either leaving the house or someone is already home.
Well, you could always carry a key for such an emergency. I had both of our locks rekeyed to a new, identical key pattern when we moved into the house a year ago.
The “for parts” locks are usually missing keys or screws, etc., or have scratches and dings, which don’t matter if you are just looking for the guts and already have the rest.
I could and I don't disagree but to me that defeats the purpose of having smart locks.
I'm going to keep an eye on eBay and see what pops up.
I also changed device drivers from the BE469 driver to just the Generic Z-wave Lock driver. Not sure it will do anything but I'm willing to try anything now.
Been there, done that. That’s not the problem. It’s (1) when the lock goes into high energy mode when it is having a hard time locking, and you’ve addressed that; and (2) secure pairing using S0 security (which Z-Wave non-plus does) transmits 3x the packets, which kills battery devices. It’s for reason #2 that I swapped out the electronics guts for Z-Wave Plus and got a C-7 hub to do S2 security. Like you, I’m tired of replacing batteries so often.
A well-hidden key in one's backyard seems a good idea for any smart lock.
Well before "smart hubs" I had a Samsung SHS-P710 lock, which had a touchscreen keypad and also could accept RFID cards, fobs and such. It had external battery contacts hidden down next to the mechanical keyhole, so one could hold a 9-volt battery against those contacts, and operate a lock with dead batteries.
Just an update to this, I reached out to Schlage support and finally heard back, they are sending me a brand new lock (z wave plus model - nice!) and I should receive it within the next 7-10 days.
The warranty period is 3 years, I was right outside that but I said that it has been 2 and a half years (which technically that is when this issue started I just didn't think to reach out to Schlage in the beginning)
Schlage support is always been good to me. My first Schlage lock had an issue from the get go. It would work fine for about a month and then lose all the codes. I called Schlage and they sent me another lock, with very little question. They said I did not have to send the old one back. About a year after that the keypad went bad in the replacement. I called and again they sent me a new lock and did not require I send back the old one.
After replacing the lock I realized the first replacement's keypad was probably good as it was some kind of issue with the main circuit card loosing it's codes. Since the CCA is on the inside portion of the lock and the keypad is on the outside I took the keypad from the first replacement and but it with the one I just replaced and got a second lock out of the deal.
That was probably 5 years ago and both are still working.
My recent experience with schlage was the same. I called them. Told them my lock worked but occasionally at zwave communication issues with my hub and asked if they had any advice. They just offered me a new lock. No need to send the old one back.
They replaced my lock out of warranty. I called them because my keypad seems to be dead. They send me a ZW Plus version as a 1 time courtesy replacement. Anyone got an old keypad they are not using? i want to see if I can make the old lock working again.
after replacing the Z-Wave non-plus modules with plus modules (from eBay), my 2 locks (formerly BE469NX, now BE469ZP) are still at 100% battery after 3 months.
No, I bought “for parts” locks, replaced the black plastic module that holds the circuit board and mechanism. That part is interchangeable among all the models.
Edit: only cautions to those contemplating this are:
(1) at least get a photo of the back side of the mounting plate, showing the DSK, with matching serial number (if the parts don’t come with that plate), and
(2) get a photo of the firmware Rev before buying. I saw posts in these forums about buggy firmware. One had 0.11.0, other had 0.10.9, both are fine. I’ve seen much earlier versions for sale that I avoided.
