OK while we are on the subject and have avid players involved; if my Zstick is right beneath the lock (in the joist bay of an unfinished basement below the kitchen floor), how can I "make" the lock communicate via the ranger extender?
Is it best practice to move the hub stick further away from the lock to make this happen?
Again I have Z-Tools and I can see the packets go directly between the lock and the hub even though the Ring range extender is right there. Just wonder if the Aeotec will be "ignored" as well, or if there is a way to "force" it to be used.
I had also read somewhere here on one of the lock threads quite sometime ago that you should get devices that support beaming. I've been curious about "beaming" and what devices would do that? Maybe an aeotec range extender is capable? I've no idea.
Maybe you need to put the extender closer to the hub? I also read that in the same thread about the beaming. What's nice with the aeotec's is that a light blinks when it's repeating something. But your zstick will tell you that.
Yeah I thought that is what the Ring was going to give me, but I don't know all that much about it. Above my pay grade.
I know I will have 2 Aeotec's by May 12th and report back all my findings. If they work I will c/p a link into every lock post I see!! (+1 vote for including them in a HE combo pack "lock proof" set for C7)
I have 3 locks. All are within 15 feet of the hub. All have zwave plus switches right next to them. I located the repeater on the center wall about half way in distance between the locks and the hub and all three started responding better. The stars in the photo are the locks on the main floor. The smiley is the hub (basement level) and the red dot is the repeater also on the main level.
Beaming is a function of Z-Wave to queue messages that are sleeping. The z-wave term used is to "mailbox" the messages until they can be received by the end point device. This is most common with locks and thermostat's that are battery powered. These devices are knows as FLIRS or frequently listening. Locks and battery thermostat's sleep and wakeup every couple of seconds to check for messages. The need for "beaming" repeaters is due to this periodic wakeup-checkin thing dones by FLIRS devices.
It is possible for the devices to communicate directly with the hub. However the z-wave controller provides no guarantee that all of these types of messages will be processed or in a timely fashion which is why beaming repeaters are so useful with locks and devices.
Not all repeaters support "beaming". This is why switches do nothing for these types of devices. Most in wall outlets does support beaming as well as dedicated "repeaters" like the aeotec devices. Some plugin units support beaming but not all. You have to check the device specifications for what they actually support. The Z-Wave product DB is the best source for this information.
That's correct. AEOTEC's extender (6) have worked well for me. I've turned off my Zwave in my IRIS plugs and only use them now for the locks and door sensors I have that support it. Seems like my Zwave mesh is 'cleaner'....I just got 2 more and added them today. I'll let things settle down and report back to see if it resolved a specific issue I was having. Hope this helps.
With Z-Wave Plus you can't pick and choose where and how a device is going to route messages.
Beaming is to help the controller more than the device as the device will send some messages direct and others not and the controller will use the beaming device because of the locks sleeping. When you send a "get status" and the lock is asleep the controller isn't going to sit around waiting so the message needs to be "mailboxed" until the lock responds.
Is there any way to help this "mailboxing" occur. Should I move the hub back inside my metal rack and put the beaming device just outside it, in "hopes" it will choose to use it? I am just trying to understand my options, thanks for putting up with my questions.
Inside the metal rack is probably not going to help things
Having at least one repeater in room with the hub and another nearby the lock(s) will help but is not an absolute "fix".
There's also other things in play here. I can repeat what the Z-Wave Specs say and what the docs say and what the z-wave training says but the real world works differently with each home/environment requiring some trial/error. You have a zniffer so that can help. If you have a laptop that will help so you can move around and see if you have dead zones.
With the zniffer it's important to watch and see... is a message from Hub -> device being sent? Was it received? Was an Ack sent back? Are device messages being received? Being Ack'ed? If there's a break in the communication line then something is either not making it or something (hub or device) are not responding correctly.
I have tried restarting the hub, but that still didn't seem to fix it. The outlet plug/repeater I have (GE 28169) is a Z-Wave plus but HE shows it as a Generic Z-Wave Smart Switch. I also have a Inovelli Z-Wave Switch Red Series which has a repeater in it, but it is in the basement away from both locks.
I will try picking up a Aeotec Range Extender and report back if that works.
I have an Alfred DB2 smart lock. I have it literally 13 steps from a repeater and 2 steps from that all on the same level is the Alfred lock. @april.brandt and I have been talking about this for days now and she mentioned this thread. My issue is this...from the dashboard as well as the device page, I can lock and unlock my lock without issue. The issue is that HE doesn't know the 'state' of the lock has changed UNLESS I manually hit the REFRESH button in the device page. I've waited hours to see if it ever does and nothing. There have been, i think 3 HE updates recently...prior to those I was able to instantly see the 'state' change of this lock. I updated only because the new updates made the lock work with Lock Code Manager. Now I wish I had just left it alone. I truly do not think this is a distance issue. I'm using the AEOTEC 6 repeaters.
@jonasd1 I know workarounds are no solution but have you tried the Reliable locks app? It asks for lock refreshes after actions, and can request retires. Might be worth a shot.
Yes, I'm actually using that on my August Lock I have upstairs. I hadn't thought about it for the Alfred lock. You might have something there. Would I be able to use it for 2 different locks?
of apps I use to "fix" my locks (not 
)
