Schlage BE469ZP Error

Hi folks,

I have a Schlage BE469ZP lock that is giving me trouble out of the blue. It had been working great for months up to now. I've searched the web extensively and found no references to these error symptoms.

It started when I tried to unlock the deadbolt from the keypad. I got 3 flashing red Xs, and nothing happened. Normally this means dead batteries, so I replaced them. I toggled the bolt manually locked-unlocked, then hit the Schlage button on the keypad to lock the deadbolt. I got 3 flashing red Xs again. I repeated this process several times with fresh batteries just to make sure, and there was no change.

I then disconnected the batteries and reconnected them, and locked the deadbolt manually. I typed in a user code. I got 2 green checks and 2 red Xs with two beeps simultaneously followed by 1 additional red X. The bolt did not move. (This trouble code does not show up in the User Guide.) Subsequent attempts to push any button on the keypad result in three silent red Xs.

This process is repeatable.

I have a second BE469ZP on a different door, so I swapped keypads between them. This makes no difference in the negative operation of the deadbolt.

Additionally, digital commands sent by Hubitat to lock/unlock the deadbolt don't actuate the bolt, and the lock's lock/unlock status does not change.

For what it's worth, it seems to be properly included on my network, and I can see the locked/unlocked status change on the device page when I toggle the bolt manually.

Does anyone have any ideas for additional troubleshooting or resolutions?


The lock could have failed. I would try resetting the lock to factory defaults, start over and add it to the Hub.

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Exclude the bolt. Then factory reset it. And see if it works. If it does not, then it indicates a hardware failure. If it does work, include it again and see if it functions normally,

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Thanks to both @672southmain and @aaiyar for the suggestion to exclude and reset to defaults.

The exclude worked, and the reset worked.

However, after reseting to defaults, there's no change in the observables. Sounds like a failed lock.

I took the lock apart to examine the board. There are no obvious signs of failure (maybe a little corrosion on the backside*), and I'm not about to give it a flying probe test... Also, wow, they're not afraid of conformal coating!

*I bought this lock used about 9 months ago. The corrosion looks like a battery may have exploded in it at one point and they tried to clean it up. Interesting.


If you call schlage and just tell them the whole thing is dead and you've replaced batteries and the keypad to no avail, they will just send you a brand new lock (current version) for free. If for some reason they don't have your color in stock, simply move the guts from the new lock to the old.


Or, often you can get used locks on eBay with a broken keypad or missing parts. Thatโ€™s what I did several years ago to convert from BE-469NX to BE-469ZP. The circuit board is interchangeable between models.


@672southmain That's a good tip. I did this myself for two BE469NX locks after I got tired of constantly replacing batteries. It's incredible how much longer the BE469ZP lasts! One caution on eBay, though - you aren't guaranteed to get the original box, manuals (or other materials), or mounting plate that contains the Z-Wave DSK. If you don't have those 5 numbers, forget adding the lock securely.

One of the sacrificial locks I bought was all mismatched parts. The DSK on the box was for a different lock, the keys didn't work, there was no manual... If you're going to keep your old lock core, not having the keys is no big deal. But not having the DSK...

So, here's a funny story.

I was rushing around on Friday morning trying to get one of the kids to school on time. I noticed when I tried to unlock the door, the typical low battery X showed on the lock. I had to knock to be let in. Rushing, I didn't stop to change the batteries. Instead, I told my wife and kid 2 to do it and went about my business getting kid 1 to school.

When I came home later that day, my wife told me kid 2 changed the batteries and couldn't get the lock to work. So she also changed the batteries but also couldn't get the lock to work.

I didn't check the batteries.

In fact, it wasn't until tonight when I was struggling with a replacement lock having the same problem (still no idea why it worked correctly when I swapped locks on Friday, but whatever) with the (presumed) new battery pack from the old lock that I stopped to actually look at the batteries in the battery pack.

They were mismatched and of unknown vintage.

Uh huh.

So I replaced the batteries, and BAM! the new lock worked. And so did the old lock.

So I guess it's like sky diving. Always pack your own parachute. And also always replace your own batteries.

Now I have to decide what to do with this extra lock I have... Return it? Replace a lock on a different door? Hmm.

And by "I", I mean my lovely family... :wink:

Not quite true. Here is how to get the 5 DSK numbers if you donโ€™t have the sticker on the back of the mounting plate:


Not true. You can pull them during an attempt at insecure pairing and it will display the dsk and you simply write it down then re pair with security.

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Those are good tips and helpful if you are in a bind. They do, however, require additional equipment that I do not have.

Using Hubitat?

yes. During pairing you should be presented with secure pairing options. Simply pick none I believe and the whole dsk will show. On a seperate monitor on your pc put on live logs and it shows in there too I think. It's been a while since I've had to do it.