Problem: One recessed light in the basement needs to be turned off separately during video recording, while all of the other lights are on.
Background: I had bulbs lighting in the unfinished basement using two switches that I had wired which controlled alternating lights. When installing a drop ceiling a few years later, the electrician installed recessed can lights (LED) and wired everything into one switch. He completely ignored what was already there as well as my instructions for 2 switches and alternate lights.
I am including pictures of the light in the can. It screws in using a standard US light bulb socket. From there, the two wires have a connector for the actual light. So far, I've been disconnecting the connector to get the light off when needed and reconnecting after.
Request for ideas: What can I do to control that one light? Remember, the whole thing will be controlled by the switch, so there will be no power most of the time. When it is powered up, then the solution should be able to turn that one light off.
A Sengled ZigBee BR30 would be good as it's non-repeating, so mesh issues will be avoided.
If a BR30 will fit in the can then you should be able to use a generic trim kit with it. 
@velvetfoot @Ranchitat I would need to keep the current light for color temp and lumens. Otherwise, if it even looks any different from the others, I'd never hear the end of it and WAF would plummet.
Id go smart bulbs with a scene controller, you can have all the bulbs powered and select which buttons turn what on/off via RM or button controller. You can even get the buttons engraved.
https://www.getzooz.com/zooz-zen32-scene-controller/
Well in that case, I'd say go for a Wi-Fi or Matter option to keep your mesh(es) out of the equation.
Stick a Shelly 1 in the can maybe...
That light says 60Hz on the side of it so I am assuming that it is 240V also. I would consider getting a Shelly and put that behind the light in the roof you might be able to wire it so it is always powered up but dunno.
You can get dimmers now.
Ok I know this is not a smart solution but you did say it’s a standard screw in type bulb also right, so wouldn’t just unscrewing the bulb be a faster way for the temp “off” then pulling it down and disconnecting the connection? Seems like added wear on the ceiling tile and the connector.
It's 120V.
Looked into the Shelly idea, and I love it. Just went on sale for Prime Day, quite inexpensive, and I can control it using Siri once or twice a week during recording when the lights are on and this one needs to be off. Even found those orange connectors so I can wire it and look OEM.
It couldn't be always powered up because of the wall switch powering all of the lights.
Unfortunately, it's harder to unscrew. And the whole thing has to be pulled down to get to either the connector or the screw. It works somewhat like this:
ah gotcha - thought you were saying the bulb itself was of the Edison base variety
Yeah, they are quite good. And should work ok as it will be powered up when you need it to turn the light off. Given that they are on Prime special ATM and depending on how may lights you have like that you could put them behind all the lights and control them that way and never have to touch the main switch.
The SONOFF MINIR4 also on Prime I think would do the same.
The Shelly is WiFi?
Why not Z-Wave Long Range?
No mesh involvement.
(Can't say why not 800 chip, but it's LR):
I missed thesmartesthouse's sale. 
I needed another 7 dimmers and 3-5 switches to replace the wemos and non-smart switches.
Ended up getting the zigbee version of the Sonoff (gray) instead of the wifi Shelly.
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Where is the junction box for that thing? Because that is where you have access to the wires you need.
Junction is above the can. I could get to it since it's a drop ceiling, but with difficulty. My plan is to connect it "in between" the orange connectors. I ordered some of those too. I'll post pictures once in place.
Are you going to interrupt power to that zigbee Shelly?
If so, that can't be good.
Yes, I have no other choice. My plan is to ensure mesh is "fixed/healed" and then install that one device, so nothing routes through it.
Though, now I'm wondering if I could use some of my old wiring to keep the Sonoff live all of the time. 
