Thanks for the suggestion @at9. Yes, I can definitely wait. 5050...ok. I don't know much about led strips yet. It's better to go with 24V, is that right? I thought with 24V then you don't need a repeater or booster to keep the leds bright towards the end of the line. Sound right?
I don't have enough information to really help, did you run Configure inside the Device Parent of each device? Is the IP correct, do commands from HE to the Tasmota devices work? Is the HE IP set in the Tasmota device? It should be if the Configure command was completed properly.
You could try to adjust it with the command RGBWWTable and White Belnd Mode. You might at least improve it a little bit.
When only doing 5meters it shouldn't matter. Voltage drop shouldn't be a problem over that distance. Beyond that it very well could be and 24V gives you more leeway.
Backing up what @markus said there was no issue with voltage drop over the 5 metres.
It really just comes down to what power supply (12v vs 24v) you want/can get.
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I will be ordering this for a project I am working on. Is it pretty straight forward to convert it to Tasmota?
It's really simple as the GPIO pins are easily accessible and no soldering required.
Do you happen to know if it can also be converted over the air? (Otherwise, I will have to learn something new... I have never done an update via GPIO...)
Oh, I almost forgot about the power supply.
How is THIS Power Supply?
It looks like I would have to get the 8A version because the 5A version only supplies 60W and the controller needs 96W... Is that right?
@markus I found the issue.
On the two non working devices, I forgot to delete their clones in pgux s integration. After I deleted them, they said available.
Now everything is working! 
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I'm pretty sure they cannot be done over the air. I had sonoff code on mine and tried to OTA to tasmota minimal and it is now dead. I can probably GPIO reflash it back to life, I just never got around to it yet.
Well, good to know! I bought an extra one, so I may give it a try and if it dies, I’ll get what I need to flash it via the connectors.
I think they are pretty resilient if you go to reflash them I'll find out soon. I'm becoming a tasmota fan, converted my sonoffs, and bought 6 feit rgbw bulbs at Lowes that could OTA Tuya convert. I tried the first h801, the other two I have I'll serial convert (when motivated) 
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You'll have to flash it via TTL which is this is one of the easiest devices to do.
I got a 12v 5A and it was more than enough.
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Hi Gang
Thought I would share a fun update. I spent time today drilling a hole through the garage and precariously laddering up a tree to install 2x 5500lm led flood lights for driveway motion trigger via the Sonoff 4CH Relay. All is working great.
Here is a couple pics of the relay install. I guess I should've taken pics of the flood lights... Well I am happy to do that if anyone cares to see.
Thanks again for your work on this integration @markus.
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Originally I did not run "reset 5", I went back and ran it and reconfigured my devices and did it the right way with the 4 new devices I installed today and everything worked as described.
Thank you for the help.
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Random musings about these Merkury/Geeni LED strip lights...none of this should be construed as a complaint, I'm really happy with this software and the ability to get it on the HE.
Anyway...
If you look at the strip LED strip directly, the LEDs are labeled WW RGB and CW respectively from left to right. The White Blend Mode looks interesting. The lights are only using the cool white LED if you set it in the 2000-2700K range. It doesn't seem to want to use the warm white LED at all. But I'll try playing around with White Blend and see what happens.
I discovered something else. If you use the color slider on the Tasmota web page it is way, way off. Like not even the right color as per the slider. In my case I don't care because we have an all-white kitchen with light color backsplash and light colored granite, and I'm never going to want anything else than white light out of the LED strip. But someone else who wants to make color will probably care.
I did have the problem with the Merkury/Geeni software that the Soft/Warm whites were way too cold. I didn't have this color issue where it's completely off in the Geeni software, as I do via Transmota. I thought maybe I had the wrong template settings so I went and found the box that the strip came in, I still have it. My box looks different than the on the templates page. But sure enough it's a MI-EW003-999W just like on the templates page.
Other thought: I need more length of LED strip to complete the job of underlighting all of the kitchen countertops. The cheap Ali Express LED strip posted in this thread is pretty interesting, I could order those and just use the Merkury/Geeni ones until the new ones arrive. It will cost me $19.99 plus local sales tax to buy so about $21-$22 for 2 more meters. Or I could buy 5 meters from the AliExpress link and the controller for about the same money, just have to wait for the slow boat shipping from China.
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Sounds like the template is wrong. Try swapping the PWM4 &PWM5 on the template and see if that fixes it
This is very good advice, it wouldn't be the first device with different pin layouts for the same model number. If you still can't get the warm LEDs you might need to keep testing other pins until it works.
Any chance something like this may be esp8266 based? I'd imagine it's a rebranded device of anither device but not sure how to find that out.
https://www.kmart.com.au/product/mirabella-smart-home-genio-wi-fi-glass-aroma-diffuser/2838802
I can't see any drivers for this device specifically made for hubitat so was hoping tasmota may be a possibility.
If I need to buy one and open it up to look inside I'm up for the task (although Ive only ever flashed esp8266 devices with usb ports so may need to invest in some hardware if that's the case).
That one looks rather simple if Tuya Convert still works with it:
To make it work with T4HE you probably have to change the pin configuration a bit, but in the end you will end up with an RGB light, a fan you can turn on and off, a diffuser you can turn on and off and the buzzer I don't know yet... GPIO16 should be Relay2 and GPIO14 Relay3, you might need to set a dummy Relay1 on an unused pin.
