Hi Guys,
I would like to ad a relay to all my existing dumb lightswitches in the house. I would also like to retain the dumb function so that all lightswitches still can be operated as normal. Has anyone done this in Sweden (220v/50Hz)? All thoughts and ideas welcome as always. If you have done this, please indicate if you are using momentary, maintained or touch buttons and if you know, which of these are supported by the solution you have chosen. Thanks.
Cheers
Don't see how EU would be different in this regard but I've done similar with zbmini and Shelly relays.. the existing switch is connected to switch terminals and will trigger the load.
I'll recommend the Sonoff ZBMINI as well. It's meant to work with a maintained toggle switch. Any change to the connected switch causes the relay output to change state. It does have some type of "debounce" function though. If you toggle the input switch twice very quickly, the output only changes once. This could also allow it to work with a momentary switch input, as long as you press and release without pausing too long in the "held" state.
Another option is the Zooz ZEN51 or 52. Both are available in EU zwave. Switch input type is configurable for several different types including toggle, momentary, 3-way, etc.
Thank you for replying to my question and sharing your thoughts.
The ZB mini looks great, thanks. Do you use Zigbee lightswitches to control your ZB minis as well? I asume they work fine as long as they are connected via Hbitat and not directly to the ZB Mini?
I also have double rocker switches in my house. The Zooz 52 seems to be a good choice, but with regards to your question @dstutz about differences in the EU, in Sweden we use 220v and usually 10A fuses. I am no electrician and in general a noob when it comes to home automation, so I don't know if it would be an issue that the Zooz 52 seems to have 5A resistive load maximum?
Also, and again I am no eletrician and I applogice if I ask stupid questions, but I don't think we use a neutral wire in our light switches, which I get the impression of being required in some dual realys, such as for instance the Enerwave dual relay? Have you tried teh Qubino flush 2 relay?
Another thing, do you use any zigbee speed controllers? Anything to recommend or lessons learnt?
Thank you for your thoughts,
Cheers
I haven’t read the entire thread, but I have Aeotec nano zwave modules behind all of my wall switches, they work great. They have dual nano and nano dimmer modules too. I believe they now have Zigbee version too.
Aeotec are German iirc so they will be euro compliant.
I even use them to turn AC fans on and off (speed control is done by the normal manual dial)
PS The wiring is very simple too
Thanks @dJOS !
Do you use any led fluorescent tube light that you have connected to Hubitat? Do you know if they will work as well?
Yep, Fluro tubes work just fine, I have 5 in the garage controlled by a nano module that I only recently converted to Phillips LED tubes.
Btw, I don’t know if your switche plates are modular? But the Clipsal Iconic range in my house are and I swapped out the regular switch mechs with momentary switch mechs.
That way my OCD doesn’t get triggered by switches not reflecting their actual state. 
Not really, but I do use Rule Machine to coordinate 3 of them together. If one is switched on, all of them come on and vice versa.
That could be an issue, but not likely. 5 amps at 220 volts is 1100 watts (please double-check the math before buying/installing). 1100 watts is A LOT of lighting...at least now that most lighting is LED.
The "neutral" requirement is likely US specific. In a US 220 volt system, I would refer to the two wires as L1 and L2. But for a "neutral required" device, you would still likely need access to two wires at different potential voltages, regardless of what they call them. This is not always available in every switch box. In those cases, it is sometimes possible to install the relay device in the light fixture and use the switch loop for signal-duty only.
I know the feeling!
Btw, have you used the Nano Extreme? Do you know if that works with Hibitat (it isn't listed but presumably it will work)?
I haven’t used it, but it’s just a high amp rated relay and should work the same as the nano series.
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