Recommendations for kitchen remodeling (2020)

Happy to help you with any questions you have. @ericm and I both use Hubitat in our homes and obviously use our switches too :slight_smile:

Thanks for considering us!

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Much less than the cost of 1 smart switch (let alone multiple + motion sensors).... :slight_smile:

No one can justify lighting automation based on electricity savings when using LED or florescent bulbs. It is a convenience / "I just want to" thing.

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This whole project is a "I just want to" thing. The Mrs. would just as well as make no change.

I do plan to have just the undercabinet lighting be controlled by a motion sensor (and those I already have many of; I picked up a 10 pack of the Iris ones for $5 each this spring).

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That's like how I'm doing it, for much the same reason (spousal approval factor). I am finding that having smart switches leads to new opportunities that both marital partners will like, such as automating something else based on switches—for example, we now have a room air purifier that comes on whenever any of the lights in the area are turned on.

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hmmm, good to know. I thought getting a higher amperage would help it out. I do have the option to put it in the middle of the LEDs too, so I might just go that route. I was honestly thinking of doing it, but was being lazy to properly hide the power brick

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I use Lutron dimmers together with these nice edge-lit LED fixtures that allow you to switch between 3000K/4000K/5000K just by toggling them off and back on. This way I get tunable white without descending into the world of smart bulbs. I've installed them in my home office and about to start a kitchen remodel myself and will be installing them there too. Only catch is you really want to use the ELV dimmer to keep them from buzzing (Feit says they are working on resolving this, but who knows which run at which factory will fix this).

https://www.homedepot.com/p//308540839

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If you have your heart set on installing some smart receptacles then another option is that you can have the electrician install the GFCI protection in the breaker panel so you can use standard receptacles in the kitchen. Assuming your house is new enough these circuits (at least 2) should be dedicated so installing the GFCI breakers is really easy.

Switches and dimmers, I've had good success with GE.

I redid my undercab lighting and converted to RGBW strips with a local controller, I went with a Wi-Fi controller to connect direct to Google Home (which I've now converted over to Alexa).
https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/rgb+w-controllers/wi-fi-rgbw-led-controller-alexagoogle-assistantsmartphone-compatible-6-ampschannel/5513/12570/
It works fine direct with Alexa and with Node-Red and little programming I was able to bridge them over to HE. As for a power supply, check out MeanWell, I've used literally hundreds of their power supplies over the years at work and personal. They're inexpensive and just work.

Just an FYI, Costco has the Honeywell Zwave Plus switches and dimmers in stock at $49 for two. These are the same as the GE Enbrighten Zwave+ switches/dimmers, and w/the right driver can support up to triple-taps up and down. Costco doesn't market them correctly (the switch in the picture looks like the older Zwave w/the removable tabs) but a user here has confirmed he received the newer Honeywell Zwave+ model.

https://www.costco.com/honeywell-z-wave-smart-dimmer-switch%2C-2-pack.product.100579303.html

Actually is this one - the new Zwave+ models:

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I do have a general question about new construction...we are embarking on a project in the next month or two, and will need to add 8-10 switches in new area added to our house.

I've never had to deal w/new construction and a bunch of new switches coming online simultaneously. I assume that when the power goes on in our new area all 8-10 switches will boot up into include mode...then move from switch to switch tapping each one to include it, name it, and continue until done. That correct? No worries about 'collisions' w/all the switches coming on at the same time?

I guess that depends on the switch, the one's I've put in (GE gen1 and HomeSeer) I've always had to push a button first to get it to include.
One thing of note, make sure that the contractor runs neutral to the switch boxes or your smart switches won't work, they need neutral to power up. It's perfectly acceptable to only have hot in the boxes for switches, it depends on how the wires are run and not all electricians will do that as a standard unless asked.

I’m no electrician, but through Google’s in the past I thought the NEC now required neutrals at every switch box? A refresh of my googling memory seems to suggest as of 2011 it’s a requirement.

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Thanks. That's what I expect/hope, that the switches won't join unless tapped. I could figure them out after the fact by going around turning them on/off, but would like to avoid that.

Yup - my home has neutrals on all areas affected by an earlier remodel, and will ensure any new construction continues that. We have three switches in the house that don't have neutrals (weren't touched by last remodel) but I intend to ask our contractor to rewire those to include neutrals as well.

Wow, showing my age, I did look it up and you're correct @djw1191 , neutral is a requirement now. Sorry for the confusion.

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Makes sense, I never asked for neutrals in our last construction, they just "showed up." Didn't really notice until the first time I opened a box to change a switch - had a moment or two of "Huh?" and had to do a little Googling. :slight_smile:

For the Zooz ZEN31, did you install a switch for it too?

I didn't, but you can just use a dry contact anywhere to act as a switch
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I did see that in the manual; I was just wondering about your installation. Thanks!

I use voice controls or my phone. I did install smart switches though, so I could maybe look into doing something with double tapping, but i'm not trying to have all that headache

Don't forget to add Water Leak sensors to your new kitchen.

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if you're going to add water leak, then add the auto shut off valves too