I read that the Aqara leak sensors can connect directly to the Aqara smart valve. That sounds like a good idea if there were a power outage. Can anyone tell me if while connecting the sensors directly to the smart valve, you can still configure and control them from the Hubitat?
While I can't answer this question, I have moved your post to an appropriate category. It normally doesn't matter too much, except the particular category you chose, "Ask Me Anything," is (as stated in the placeholder text) intended for quick answers about the hub itself that you can't find in the FAQ. This mostly matters because topics will be auto-closed shortly after an "answer" is accepted, and topics in this category display in a featured section on the site -- neither of which is desirable for other kinds of questions or discussions.
I'd encourage you to find an appropriate category for future posts, too, to avoid the same pitfalls.
Thanks!
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This is incorrect information. The Aqara T1 valve and sensors are both zigbee end-devices that must be paired to a zigbee coordinator, like an Aqara hub or Hubitat.
Automations run on the coordinator control the valve.
What that is referencing is if you connect the sensors and the shutoff valve to an Aqara hub, then inside the app in the valve options section you can link the sensors to the valve by choosing them. This means not having to write an automation to shut off the valve if the sensors detect water.
This means they can't be connected to HE because they are connected to an Aqara hub.
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Got it.
I think this is all a moot point because I just noticed that my main water line is plastic! I removed the pipe insulation to reveal plastic junk. I'm more concerned about a smart valve damaging the plastic pipe.
I just bought this house brand new 2 years ago. They don't build them like they used to!
PEX is just fine. Also the valve itself is metal.
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You think it would be OK to connect a smart valve onto the plastic?
If the valve body is brass and the actuator attachment points are within the valve body dimensions it should be fine. Most important is to get the actuator pivot aligned with the valve pivot (directly on top).
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Thanks, I'm still a bit leery.
I would not put any bolt-on shutoff device on that particular setup as pictured -- the device would need to bolt on to either the fitting or the pipe, and neither is a good choice.
The pipe is PEX-A, so it's too flexible (compared to the more common PEX-B), and tightening anything onto one of those expansion ring/sleeve PEX-A fittings is 100% a bad idea.
If that vertical section could be re-piped with copper (preferably Type K, but Type L should be fine too), then Bob's your uncle.
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If you can replace that ball valve to where the clamping point of Aqara valve is on the brass portion of the ball valve you will be fine.
I have the Aqara shut off valve and all the torque and pressure is on the clamping point. If the clamping point is on the brass ball valve then it will work perfectly fine.
I have black abs pipe coming into one side of my brass ball valve and PVC going out the other side. The Aqara valve clamps onto the brass ball valve. The piping structure is supported by pipe strapping and is not rigidly fixed. The Aqara valve will actuate and move and never shake the plumbing.
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Thanks I'm leaning towards giving it a try. I just located the main water shutoff out in my yard, just in case. I also have plumber coming out tomorrow to give me an estimate to have the line in the picture replaced with copper. He said normally they replace copper with PEX!
Should be inexpensive. And it is pretty easy to join crimp PEX onto copper. Around here, it would be no more than ~$150-200 in total (including a new ball valve).
Yea it doesn't seem like too big of a job. Ironically, the plumber says that normally they replace copper with PEX! I also want him to show me how to shut off the water at the main in the pit in my yard. If anything did go wrong at this shutoff that would be the only way to stop it.
Not ironic at all. PEX is preferable to copper in most cases of new and replacement plumbing -- it's cheaper, easier to work with, and is more immune to temperature extremes and long-term wear (e.g. copper develops pin-hole leaks over time).
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Get a water main key. They’re cheap:
Yes this is much easier than busting your knuckles on the meter housing because your slip channel pliers "slipped" off the rectangle nut. Lol.
Will not admit to how I know this. Lol
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Once you get the piping replaced I don't think you will be disappointed. Especially, for the money. My valve is in the basement on one end of the house and my controller (Aqara M2 Hub) is slightly passed midway of the house in the opposite direction. I have it connected to a button in the house and it has never failed to actuate.
No I meant ironic in the sense that I have PEX but want copper.
