In my seemingly never ending quest to clean up my equipment closet, and in light of contemplating adding another hub, could I use something like one of the devices below to power my hubs rather than using the included adapter in order to save a on the power strip?
I had tried POE before and it didn't work. It may well be that the switch I have isn't set up for POE though. I guess for what I could spend on any of these I could just as easily get a POE switch. Only question I would have is isn't there something in documentation that says not to use POEwith the hubs? Or do the splitters negate that? That was why I didn't persue it further before.
All my switches are poe... My 2 Primaries are Cisco WS-C3750X-48P's Small POE switches are so cheap nowadays, an injector seems hardly worth the time...
Agree - POE switches make it simple. However, I'm using managed switches for other purposes on my network (VLANs), and had already purchased and installed them before I got the hub and wanted POE in that location, so separate injectors solved that for me.
I have a four-port POE switch in another location that I used for some POE cams, very handy stuff. I remember when I first learned about POE...it was "Wow...no way! You can send power through ethernet too!!??"
Personally I think that Poe is great for one or two devices in the same location and in particular situations like a Chromecast on the back of a tv. But once you get 4HE hubs and 3 - 4 rpi's located together, having all those splitters seems a bit cluttered compared to a USB hub and some good cable management. Not thar I can claim to have achieved that
I run my network devices (router, controllers) from a 12V battery and indirectly simplified my AC adaptor mess. All devices are 12VDC except for one 5VDC. I calculated maximum device watts from the info printed on AC adaptors. (Watts=Amps*Volts.)
Current setup:
12V 35amp hour gel battery->3A ATC fuse->batterymart . com 1950-222 Low Voltage Disconnect Battery Saver->12-24V to 12V Buck Boost Converter->terminal strip->2.1mm x 5.5mm pigtails and 12V to 5v regulator. Wire must be appropriate size or the wire will be become the fuse. LVD prevents devices operating on less than 12.2 volts. Buck boost prevents over voltage. Connected to the battery terminals is a 4A always-charging battery charger that supplies enough current (amps) to power the load AND keep the battery charged.
Given this setup, it has an actual runtime of 32 hours (vs 30.5 calculated) when the electricity is out. To calculate runtime I wrote a simple spreadsheet using joules as the energy factor.
Everything you wote above is gibberish to me. There are a couple words that I have seen before, like "wire" and "that." Thanks a lot, now I'm going to have to spend the whole day Googling electrical terms...
Quite an assumption...that I actually planned ahead and have anything logically co-located.
I would take a picture of my cable disaster in our home office, except that the last time I posted a pic of it the FBI arrived at my house 10 minutes later asking if I was the guy who was building an unauthorized super collider.
Along these same lines, has anyone seen a good power strip that is capable of accepting plugs of different types without blocking all of the spots to the left or right? So frustrating when a strip with 6 sockets can only accept 3 devices. I've been looking to make my own using a 4-gang box and include some of these somehow...
You must've seen my new Tablo DVR which happens to be resting on top of my water softener...because there was an open outlet and it's midway between where my coax comes in and my LAN switch.
Years ago I was doing some work w/State Farm agents, they were putting IBM AS400 minicomputers into the agent offices to support the new system they were rolling out. One office called in and said that their AS/400 kept having problems and wasn't reliable.
Tech visited the office and found two problems:
Bad: They had put their coffee station (coffee maker, cups, creamer, sugar, etc.) on top of the computer. Not the greatest idea to have all that liquid on top of an electrical device.
Worse: They only had one plug in the area, so any time they wanted to make coffee they simply unplugged the AS/400 so they could plug in the coffee maker. So the AS/400 was getting a hard shutdown up to three to four times a day. Ouch!
Something like the 2nd item you linked to, with its own 60W power supply should be fine.
Your switch either supports PoE or it doesnโt. It should be clear enough from the manual. Or if itโs a managed switch, from the management page in a browser window.
If there was a manual, I have no idea where it went. I looked back at the order on Amazon earlier, and the listing didn't say anything about PoE so I'm going on the assumption it doesn't. I did order another switch this afternoon, and should have it Tuesday or Wednesday. I still have the splitters from my last experiment, so I'll just need to add another if I do get a third hub.