There's also this
A cheaper way would be to to buy a contactor like this
https://www.amazon.com/Packard-C230B-Pole-Contactor-Voltage/dp/B001KGSJ74/ hook it up to a regular Zwave switch (I think this was suggested above).
FWIW.....The spec sheet on this GE switch says the contactor is rated for 1 hp @ 120 volt and 2 hp @ 240 volt
I have one one my shop (which is actually in the process of being decommissioned) that I built. Pretty simple if you're able to do a bit of wiring.
The concept is simple. When a blast gate it closed, the switch is open and no voltage flows from a 12v DC power supply to the the relay. When I open a blast gate, the switch is no longer pressed and this allows 12v DC to close the contacts on the relay. That allows 110v AC to pass to the magnetic contactor, which then allows 110v (under load) to pass to the dust collector motor.
Not modern "smart" enabled, but it was cheap to build, never needs batteries and it's been working for 20 years.
OP said it's Harbor Freight 2HP, there is only one. 120V and 20A
Dust Collector - Great Deals on Dust Collectors at Harbor Freight
Reviews have people reported tripping 15A breaker but no issue 20A breaker.
Okay so here's the story on the HP rating and power tool motors.
Just like back in the muscle car era Auto MFGs typically massively underrated HP ratings to cheat the insurance companies, powertool companies massively overstate HP ratings for power tool electric motors which is why there are so many Sears Craftsman 5HP 110V table saws that have a max amp draw rating of 12 amps at 110v AC.
The HF so called 2 HP dust collector is more along the lines of probably 1.2 HP and has a 15 amp plug / outlet connection not the funny sideways leg 20 amp job.
HOWEVER, just like window unit ACs, dust collectors are known to have a fairly large inrush current that momentarily exceeds the 15 amp rating of the pulgs, this is common with dust collectors, air conditoners, and air compressors.
Honestly what I SHOULD do is get into the housing and wire it for 220v, and simply wire an external slap paddle to it and call it good. It isn't something used every day, but more like every other saturday and sunday...
McDull,
... I think specification means 20A when used as NO relay and 10A when used as NC relay, even though I don't quite understand why the difference...
Here is why the contacts have two ratings,
In the Normally Open direction, only the return spring is pulling the contacts together, (not so powerful).
In the Closed direction a VERY powerful electromagnet is pulling the contacts VERY tightly together, permitting more amps to cross through the contacts.
Not necessarily. Home circuit breakers are magnetic and thermal. They have a large delay before interrupting the circuit.
The below may not be exact for every 20A breaker but it provides a sense of overload capability.
.... a 20 amp breaker must trip at a sustained current of 27 amperes (135 percent) at less than one hour, and at 40 amperes (200 percent of wire rating) in less than 120 seconds
just so folks understand, I'm not suggesting the Zen16 or 17 can or cannot do the job. I'm saying it may be close to the devices current limit that inquiring about it with the mfg is a prudent idea.
This sounds like exactly what I need to do for controlling a camper AC unit (20 AMP, 120V) but I need to have someone check my logic on the wiring side. If there is anyone who has used this Zettler AZ2280 relay with something like a Shelly or Sonoff I'd love to pick your brain.
If you post your proposed wiring diagram, I'm sure there are folks here who'd be happy to chip in and help out if it doesn't look as expected.
Basically, for the Zettler relay:
When the switch (SHelly/Sonoff) is turned on, the relay is energized, and the load will receive power.
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