Can someone recommend a source for oversized Old Work Gang Boxes in the US? Do the big box stores have them? I don't know what is considered a standard volume for a 1, 2, 3, or 4 gang so I am not 100% sure what a oversized one would be when looking at Home Depot's website.
I have a couple of 2-gang that I want to install a 3-gang for the extra room and just install a Pico in 3rd spot. I also have a 3-gang that sags into wall significantly on the side opposite the nails and the lower mounting hole is broken for the side of box too.
Any suggestions on removing the original box would be appreciated. I have put in Old Work boxes where I was just cutting out a hole but never had to remove one nailed to a stud 1st that already had wires in it.
Regarding removing gang boxes, I helped a neighbor do that quite a few years ago and IIRC, we killed the circuit (DOH! ), removed all switches, straightened and pushed wires out of the way as much as possible, and got a hacksaw between the box and the stud and cut the nail(s?) holding it in place. Was about 15 years ago so memory is a little foggy...
That's really easy without having to modify the box or wiring at all. If your wallspace allows it, just use a 3-gang wall plate instead of the existing 2-gang wall plate. The pico remote, with the proper wall-mount accessory kit, can simply be added to the additional 3rd location. I have done this in multiple rooms of our house to have a wall-mounted Pico that controls table/floor/night-stand lamps. It is a very nice clean look, with no modifications to the electrical box required.
This video shows an example of doing this.
I don't even bother with adding the drywall screws he used in this video, making this change very easy to reverse, if desired.
I have done that in garage but I need the volume of a 3 gang to house all of the wires from 2 switches in the location that I mentioned in original post.
I've done this about a dozen times in the last year. Here's a procedure that works:
Determine which side of the existing box is attached to the stud.
Create a template using the replacement workbox. I made the template in plastic so it is durable.
Remove switches, etc., and then center the template over the existing workbox and mark it out.
Use a drywall saw or oscillating tool (preferred) to remove the excess drywall around the existing workbox.
Use a wooden dowel and rubber mallet to knock the existing box away from the stud by 2-3 millimeters.
Use an oscillating tool and cut the nails.
Remove the old box from the wall.
Pre-drill two small holes in the new (plastic) old-work workbox on the side that will be abutting the stud. After positioning the box appropriately, use 3/4" screws to affix the box to the stud. Doing so makes it much easier to deal with the box in the future. It will stay in place.
AFAIK, standard depth old work boxes are 2.75 in deep. The deep work boxes are 3.65 in deep. Make sure your wall can accommodate a deep work box before getting set to use one - I've made that mistake once!
I recently had a kitchen remodel and I moved the light switches. It was a 2 gang and I got a 3 gang and dremmel'd off some of the 'face' on the 3rd gang. Gang 'bay' 1 &2 are 100% normal and extend to the outside surface of the drywall. The 3rd gang had to be reduced by the thickness of the dry wall. I slid the entire box into the drywall hole thus "hiding" the 3rd gang behind the drywall. I put two Zwave dimmer modules in that spare 3rd gang.
Looks perfect, works perfectly too. I like @aaiyar answer too. The electrician really didn't comprehend it until I showed him the two dimmer modules and the non-dimmer switches that wire into the modules. He really couldn't grasp 'hidden 3rd gang'.
@aaiyar’s solution seems to be the most effective one.
If you’re good at repairing drywall, or know someone who is, you can also cut the Sheetrock between the two studs above and below where the current plug (6 to 12 in will likely give you enough room. Then everything is easily accessible. You can add a new piece of Sheetrock over the new box and cut out the hole with a Rotorzip - they have some where the end of the tip is dull and can just follow the contour of the box.
Home Depot sells multiple depts of boxes. In Canada, most of those are metal boxes. The deeper, the better! Typical 2 by 4 studded walls will accommodate them all.
All gang boxes will have a cubic inch spec mentioned. Code requires a certain CU minimum based in the number of wires coming into the gang box. When comparing the boxes look at the CU number to know the size. Obviously the higher the CU the deeper it will be. As others mentioned the width and height will mostly remain the same.
I’ve ripped out too many boxes to count in my house and like you one deep one. I found one on Amazon that worked since local box stores didn’t have it. Let me see if I can find it.
Here it is. The blue Carlons you find in box stores are only 53CU this one is 55 https://a.co/d/eH3vCDa
It’s both a new and old work box. I cut the flang off and inside you will see angled screws to mount to the stud. I have 3 smart switches in mine and 7 or 8 Romex coming in. Was a pain to replace but things fit well.
Avoid wire nuts where you can and consider Daisy chaining neutral and line power to each switch from one another. Also use both terminal holes on the back of the switches to avoid wire nuts. This saves lots of space.
Looking to start a holy war? Wait until some sparkies chime in... Heh.
I like fiberglass old work boxes and honestly don't think you need the 55+ unless there is more in that box that switches. How many romex?
If you want big the gray cantex boxes are ok.
I use a sawzall to cut the nails.
Before removing an otherwise good box to replace it with the same size I'd just repair it. Sagging and screw holes can be repaired. Most are not patient enough to extract a box without damaging the drywall.
FWIW an electrician did this very thing while working on an addition at my home. County inspections passed.
For the OP and anyone reading this we are all guys and gals on a public forum providing advice based on our personal experience. If anyone feels uncomfortable then they should hire a qualified electrician.
), removed all switches, straightened and pushed wires out of the way as much as possible, and got a hacksaw between the box and the stud and cut the nail(s?) holding it in place. Was about 15 years ago so memory is a little foggy...
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