I just bought a home with unfortunately oil heat and hot water. I’d like to find a way to replace the device in the picture with a device that can be controlled with Hubitat to adjust temperature, so that when we are away, we can turn down the hot water heater.. I have installed Z wave thermostats, and other devices, but I’m not even sure what device would replace this. Any suggestions are welcome.
That looks similar to the thermostats we had at the shop for the overhead infrared heaters. My father worked for White-Rodgers and was able to source replacements because they were falling off the wall when I started there in 1979. From what I remember these are low voltage, most likely 24 volts which would explain the low voltage wiring. These are considered mechanical thermostats.
I did a quick search for Zigbee mechanical thermostat and Z-Wave mechanical thermostat and struck out. I am pretty sure my Nest thermostat would control an oil furnace but the integration is beyond me.
I think your thermostat has a capillary bulb that senses the temperature of the boiler (?) so interfacing with a regular thermostat might be an issue. And since boilers create pressure, if something goes wrong, an explosion could happen.
Might want to consider upgrading to a gas furnace but that is $$$
I would strongly suggest you do not "replace" that controller, but set it a little higher than you normally would. Then control the day - day temperatures with something like the below.
The current device likely has a mechanical "bulb" on the end of a tube. It would be in a temperature "well" ( something like this). Hopefully you can fit the new sensor in the well with the current sensor.
Without knowing more about the thermostat control its difficult to suggest a controller, but it most likely will require a relay of some sort.
It looks like it is similar to this item -- an aquastat -- [L4006A2007 - Resideo L4006A2007 - High or Low Limit Aquastat, 100-240°F range, 5-30°F Adj Differential (supplyhouse.com)](https://www.supplyhouse.com/Resideo-L4006A2007-High-or-Low-Limit-Aquastat-100-240-DegreeF-range-5-30-DegreeF-Adj-Differential
Since it seems like it's basically a setpoint on/off signal to the heating element with low-voltage signaling, it should be doable -- but give the above it isn't as straightforward as other DIY HA activities' I've tackled. Hoping there is some one else out there who has done this...
When I read this thread, I think of this video.
And some of the aftermath as a plumber for many years.
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Well, of course I'm not doing it unless I'm 100% sure, and so far from the research it doesn't look like it's been addressed -- but it seems like a no-brainer home automation target to turn down HW heater (unless you have an on-demand) on a schedule or when you're away. I guess the other alternative is to just shut it down altogether but apparently there are issues with that as well.
You could also use a smart thermostat that has the capability of a remote sensor. Would be a simple installation.
In the winter, maybe it'll keep the pipes from freezing, if ADK means Adirondack, lol.
And then, there's always the option of just replacing that old Oil-fired HW heater with a new, heat pump HW heater. Many states have big rebates on them.
Thanks John I was wondering about that. Not sure what the wiring would be though. I’m thinking the low voltage wire may just be a red/white wire like I’ve changed out with other thermostats. Appreciate the help.
It does. And I’ll be monitoring the basement and crawl spaces closely with thermostats and rules to turn on portable heaters if it get too cold!
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In the plans — likely replace all the oil (main heat also) with geothermal and solar to power. But, takes time. Just trying to keep all systems working and efficient go now. Thanks!
That's typically the danger-you have heat distribution and domestic water pipes running around the top of the foundation. Air leakage, no heat getting to the basement because heater is not running because house is being heat with wood or pellet stove, could lead to frozen pipes.
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All the controls I've ever run into will close for heat and open for met temp.
I would wire the two devices (mechanical and smart thermostat) in series. This way if the Smart thermostat leaves the reservation the mechanical will stop the temperature from getting too high.
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