Hello, could you add to turn off the logs of this device and child devices? Thanks.
This schematic is a joke. Anybody have any english documentation?
It's not shorted there for sure....
Love this product shot. Looks so normal and safe!
I don't know if this helps or makes it worse, LOL. seriously, glad to help if you have questions. I hooked up two of these.Screenshot_20190601-211041_Chrome|525x500
WARNING! This dual relay does not support dry contacts. Removing the red jumper will still give mains voltages between the IN terminals and the Neutral. These are not isolated contacts. I would only recommend the use of this relay for mains powered devices.
Two mains voltage loads, but no manual activation
Two mains voltage loads, plus manual activation
This review explains a lot, even if you don't speak the language.
If anyone cannot get the Bang good deal that @veeceeoh posted for any reason, then Gearbest has a decent price reduction on them right now. AliExpress has a better price than Gearbest, but I've had no delivery issues with Gearbest or Bang good. Cannot say the same for AliExpress. I got the product from them, but it took 4 months!
Your diagrams above appear to be correct. Thanks for fixing my 3rd grade art project.
I can't verify the dry contacts statement tho.
AliExpress has been very good for me here in the USA, 2-3 weeks delivery, sometimes sooner.
And Ali is very responsive to issues, unlike gear best. Although I've yet to have a problem with a Xiaomi device, outside of connection issues, as they seem to have good qc
LOL, Thanks for confirming. I kind of felt like a 3rd grader for not understanding the schematic from the start.
Are yours already installed in that wall? If not, you could confirm that dry contact for me by removing the jumper, so your mains voltage is only supplying N and L. Next measure with a multimeter across IN and L1 or IN and L2 with the relay in both open and closed positions. If there is no voltage leaking, then they are proper isolated dry contacts.
[Update] This relay does not have isolated dry contacts. Only use it for controlling mains powered devices
Also curious if the sense contacts can be changed via driver from latching to momentary type as some wireless relays support. It looks from the Russian video, that the relay can also remember scene configurations, similar to this Gwiss dual relay.
So I just did this, and outside of what I suspect is spurious AC voltage (around 19 VAC) between those terminals, in both open and closed positions, I got zero volts DC across those terminals.
I also was able to get some intimate shots, after a little financial persuasion(credit card edge used to pry open)
To be continued...
Wow! Thanks for going to the effort and then some. That’s very encouraging to see they are using good quality relays. The stray voltage, if there, is low enough to easily filter.
Okay, more testing and a
with only N and L connected to mains voltage and jumper removed, when the relay is switched on there is 120 volts at L1 or L2 depending which relay is energized. I verified this by switching the relay L1 on, and then running the meter from L1 to ground on my gas pipe, and got 120 VAC, same with the L2 connector.
So please be careful and if anyone is not sure of their skill or knowledge, please call an electrician, I don't want anyone getting hurt.
I learned my lesson a long time ago. Got 120 volts from right elbow thru my chest and out my left hand. It's true, you can't let go, I had to jump off the ladder to disconnect myself from the circuit. It was a faulty switch that was off, but still sending power. Hurt like the Dickens. Thank you Father God I am fine and always very very careful with electricity, at least after that!
Thanks! Ok, so there is no isolation there. So I’m going to close 120v relays from the output to give me true isolation. Really appreciate the testing you’ve done.
This leads me only to questions...
With the above finding, aren't some of the diagrams in this thread incorrect?
Why is there a jumper in the first place?
Are the common IN terminals isolated from the L terminal?
Aside from that, I looked up the relay specs: Panasonic ADW1203HLW, 3VDC, 16A, 2-coil, 277VAC switching voltage, 100A Inrush Current. Here is the page for it on Mouser.
Knowing the relays are DC resolves my previous concern about using the relay on 60Hz power. Hertz doesn't matter when rectifying to DC, and from what I understand a 50Hz transformer can be operated on 60Hz power supply (as long as it's operated within its stated Voltage range.)
All the schematics I’ve seen would indicate the jumper is needed to bring the full current to the relay contacts. My guess would be that the 120v measured from the relay contacts to an external ground is a cost saving choice that the engineers made not fully isolate the relay contacts because the intended use is not dry contacts.
It would therefore still be necessary to have a jumper as the available current would not handle most loads.
Received my dual relay today. This is a very nice device, considering the cost.
A couple of notes:
The screw terminals work opposite. Turning the screw clockwise clamps the wire toward the top of the slot, Turning the screw counter-clockwise clamps toward the bottom of the slot in the relay. Doesn't seem to matter which side of the clamp you choose, both work.
Many of these type of clamping terminals clamp metal to metal. This has green plastic inside the slot that the metal clamp tighten's against. As a result, I found that it was necessary to tighten the screw hard to keep the wire from accidentally pulling out. Do be carful
Pairing is simple. Hold the button (top-right in the photo) for 5 seconds. The relay appears in the HE Zigbee discover window.
While the size is smaller than anticipated (common with Xiaomi devices), it is quite large. I'm not sure I would put this in a switch or outlet box, even if there was room because of concerns about the way the wires clamp into it. Not to mention that this is not a UL, CUL or CSA approved device.
Anyway, I have now completed my project and have this closing contacts on relays with 120v coils in order to get true isolation from the mains voltages. The relays trigger either the Arm or Disarm buttons of my iSmart Alarm fob. The fob is powered by a 5v to 3v step-down buck module and this is supplied by an iPhone power adapter.
I have two questions about this device.
Does anyone know if it's fully compatible with the Xiaomi Gateway 2?
I have a gas boiler that makes both hot running water and ambient heat and I want to control just the heating part with this relay. The idea is that the boiler has to be always powered on (for hot running water) and when needed just get the contact to turn on the pump and flame. Right now I have a "dumb" wireless thermostat which, from the instructions manual has the following specs:
Voltage OUT: 24 V AC / DC, 250 V AC; 50 Hz
Current OUT: 6 A resistive sau 2 A inductive (not 100% sure about the terminology since I translated it from romanian).
The receiver connects to 230 V AC and has 3 OUT connectors 1 (NO); 2 (COM); 3 (NC) and right now 1 and 2 are connected to the boiler.
Can I use this Aqara Relay instead of my existing one?
The input mains is NOT isolated from the relay contacts. So if you need to close contacts for lower voltages, you will need to close a secondary relay that has an activation coil of the same voltage as the input voltage.
Should be supported by the Gateway 2. I have an Aqara Hub HomeKit version and it is supported there. Although mine are attached to Hubitat
How? Driver? App? or you meant the relay is attached to HE?