Hello HE users, I'm not users my post will be adapted but i need an advice before ordering my HE.
I live in France an di'm currently building my house with a developper. It will be done in coupple of months so I would like to know the following.
- Can HE handle both home automation and Wired WHOLE HOME AUDIO SYSTEM?
If that's the case, could you please advice me on how to go about it in terms of let's say fittings? For instance i want to directly tell the developper to chose a wireless light switch vs the normal one and so on. Is that possible?
Many thanks for your insight.
HE can handle a lot of automation but you need to pay attention of device themselves. Because of different frequencies, some devices can be used in USA/Canada, but not in Europe. HE is usable in any countries (USA/Canada/Europe/Australia/...)
If you order automation devices (ebay by example), you need to be sure that the purchased units will work in France.
About audio, I think you can build an entire system with the rights units (Sonos are good speakers with embedded automation, wired and wireless), Ikea's Symphonisk are made by sonos and provide good quality units for good prices too.
I'm a kind of newbie with HE (not with automation) and I can't give you more precision about what you define as "whole home audio system".
I managed to build very easily a nice (vs whole) audio system for almost nothing:
some symphonisk's speakers, some Google Home speakers, a windows W7 with a file server that's able to feed my phone. On my phone a very nice app (bubbleUpnp) that allows me to redirect any played song/playlist to any speaker of my house. And I have with that simple setup a way to reach my goal: play my music on any room with speakers.
Working in my garage ? I can listen to rock music in my garage,
Laying on my living room ? I can listen to soft music in my living room
Reading a book on my bedroom ? I can listen to classical music in my bedroom
It's enough for me. And without home automation (HE or alike). Maybe not enough for you.
I'm sure you'll receive more answers here. If you need more info of my setup, you can PM me if you want, in french if it's easier for you (french is my mother tongue).
Bonjour Mike, Le Français est également ma deuxième langue. Merci beaucoup pour les infos que vous avez bien voulu partagé. Je veux bien en savoir plus sur votre Setup. Je suis complètement nouveau sur l'outil HE.
Pour info, utiliser les sonos se sera en dernier recours. Pour le moment j'opte pour un système Arylic a50 + enceinte ('in-ceiling) Micca M-8C.
Actuellement mon plus gros soucis c'est de dire clairement au constructeur le type de câblage qu'il faire passer et comment/ou. J'aimerai répliquer ce système : In Ceiling 5.1 and 3 Zones of Sonos + a Few TV Mounts in Dallas, Texas (Kindly put the title on YT)
PS: je n'arrive pas à te PM.
In the forum, I'll reply in english because this language is the common language here.
Maybe you're too new in this forum, thus not allowed to write PM.
About HE, you need to know that this unit can manage hardware IF there is a driver for it. HE is provided with a lot of built-in drivers, including zigbee and zwave that allow HE to control generic zigbee/zwave devices. But not all...
Some users have written some custom drivers (for specific devices), if it's possible (or rewrote drivers from ST, aka Samsung SmartThings).
You can even ask people to write drivers for you, if it's possible.
So, a lot of opportunities.
About wiring, my suggestion (my experience) is to put in any room at least cat6 wiring to allows you to connect networked devices. Wireless is nice and easy, wired is always better.
Your units (arylic) are both. But drivers are needed if you want to integrate them with HE. So, possible ? Google is your best friend here.
My setup: search here for posts I left. And feel free to ask your questions. Don't ask to many on the same post.
Forum's users are friendly. And quick to reply. And have accurate opinions/solutions/answers.
Thanks for that, indeed I should have kept the convo in English for the benefit of the all in the forum.
I'll check your previous post. Thanks
When you say whole house audio, do you mean speakers in different rooms, all brought back to a central location? Something like a Russound system?
If I was building a house today, I would make sure there was a neutral wire at every switch location. This makes it easy to replace normal switches with smart switches later on. I would also use the PVC type electrical boxes so if I wanted to use a micro type switch (Qubino flush 1 etc) that was buried behind the switch or plug, the signal wouldn't be blocked by the metal box. If you want to automate window blinds/shades at some point you may want to think about how the power would get to the window as well if you don't want to use batteries. Make sure that you run enough wire from your heating system to be able to support powering a smart thermostat.
My thoughts on a what I would do if I could do it all over again.
I don't believe a PVC knock out box exists. I have metal knock out boxes (designed for in the wall) and metal front plates but I don't have a issue because I have enough devices which are powered.
A PVC box is not designed to be buried in the wall. They are larger than a normal box so you can't plaster up and just past it.
This is the type of junction box I was referring to. ==> Carlon®
They seem to be more common now. When I built my house, 20 years ago, all the junction boxes were metal. I have tried using the Aeotec nano devices and Qubino flush devices but they don't work so well in a metal box.
We do have something similar in the UK but only in the commercial industry, they are buried in concrete usually so not going to help. The only plastic stuff we use is "fast fix boxes" used in plasterboard and stud walls. I believe you call it dry wall.
Sorry for the late reply, i have been travelling. Not necessarily if i use the Arylic product. I Believe there is no need to have a central location anymore right?
I live in British Columbia, Canada, and these plastic electrical boxes are throughout my whole house. Must be part of the local electrical code. It makes sense as you're not going to energize the entire box if it's not properly grounded and a live wire touches the box. Likely less chance of electrical fires occurring as well.