This isn't unusual on RGBW lamps
its not both, they make a CT one and a RGBW one, you notice that the range of CT on the RGBW is better that the CT one, this is because it uses the RGB LEDs to create the higher and lower CT. Hence why you see the RGB chips lit up.
perhaps I have interpreted it incorrectly but I was expecting CT and RGB out of the same lamp, as usual expecting too much 
yes, your just miss understanding it. It is a RGBW lamp which is RGB and tuneable white its just not a RGB + full CT lamp those don't exist to my knowledge.
the exact makeup of these lamps I don't know, but usually its RGB chips and a warm white (lets say 2500) and cool white chip (say 4500). The RGB does the RGB, the the CT chips give the CT range but on its own it can only do from 2500 (just the warm ON) to 4500 (just the cool on) but these lamps according to my states.
can do 1801 to 6535. So in order to do that the RGB part gets involved IE full RGB mix is usually a good "daylight white" 6500 so on that setting I would expect no CT chip to be on at all. where as 1801 is very red/ orange so it will likely have the warm white chip mixed with some orange from the RGB giving you the larger range.
If you look on their data sheets as I said before your notice the CT ONLY lamp has a MUCH smaller range because its fixed by the warm white kelvin chip and the cool white kelvin chip as its "high and low" limits.
also
I know they have done a few firmware updates to a lot of there lamps and I know there was one planed for the RGBW, maybe when this eventually gets released (might be already on their hub) it might improve this.
This is good to hear, I was surprised they weren't tested because I know a lot of users including myself use these bulbs.
Me too...would have thought it would have been on the test list as well. But working well for me w/the new drivers.
A little, they work fine with sengled
Switched the driver to advanced, changed the name to match, clicked save. Clicked configure after.
Figured it - the bulb has to be ON prior to changing the driver.
It has to have power...it should not need to be on (as in lit up). Mine weren't on when I switched drivers, but they turned on when the driver test was going on.
It's the state variables we need to see at just the bottom left of that shot. That's not the advanced driver though?
it doesn't look like its finished testing the lamp? Maybe click save and then configure again and post the logs it outputs.
Yeah, it's not making it through the check, checkPhase should be 0 when it's done.
What bulb is this?
I found putting the device in a group for some reason helps it complete the test when it gets stuck. Send level and RGB changes though the group device and it often goes though, no idea why. YMMV though as I'm sure that would depend on the lamp or light fitting used.
@mike.maxwell The bulb is like this: LED Downlight ZIGBEE Link Light Rgb+cct WW/CW Led LIGHT Zigbee Downlight Ceiling Light Work With Amazon Ecoh|LED Downlights| - AliExpress
hi @mike.maxwell - just wanted to draw your attention to a related(/parallel?) thread if you hadn't already seen it
Yeah, move it back to the generic, it's obvious that this device isnt responding to everything in a standard way.
That's ZigBee LL, stay away from LL on a HA hub that might work on Philips hue but that's it.
I only buy ZigBee 3.0 lamps, then they should correctly support ZigBee HA1.2.
Download the Hubitat app
