I have a DC motor that's connected to a water valve. I'm using a Zooz Zen17 relay to open and close the valve. That works fine. The motorized valve also has three other low voltage wires. Green , white and yellow. When valve is fully open, the green and white wires are connected to indicate the valve is open. When the valve is fully closed the white and yellow wires are connected to indicate a closed valve. Do I use the S1 and S2 terminals for the white and yellow wires and what do i connect the green wire to ? Also, what parameters do I set in the Zooz Zen17 companion driver?
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Have you asked Zooz? They're usually pretty good about helping figure stuff like this out. They'll probably want the name/model of your motor/valve setup so they can research it.
My guess it that yellow and green will end up on S1/S2, and that maybe the white gets pigtailed into both of those respective "C"s, but I honestly have no idea.
This is valve open/close status signals. If this is me, I definitely will use these status signals
in valve control rule to make sure valve is fully open or closed and not stacked somewhere
in a middle. Depend on how motor is operated you can turn off both relays when motor
is at the end point. Connect status wires to the S inputs and configure ZEN17 for independent
status/control functionality. This way you can create very robust valve control rule.
I am just getting ready to release a full ZEN17 advanced driver, I posted a sneak peek version here: [DRIVER] Zooz Relays Advanced (ZEN16, ZEN17, ZEN51, ZEN52) - #50 by jtp10181
Wire the White to both S1-C and S2-C
Wire the Green to S1 and Yellow to S2
I think you will want these settings:
Then you may need to turn on cleanup child devices and sav again.
You should have 4 child devices now, two will be the relay switchs you can turn on and off, and two will be the status inputs. So you can then use the open/close status from the valve to make sure the value fully opens and closes.
Agreed, once you get the open or closed state on the inputs you can probably shut off both relays, leaving it on constantly could reduce the life of the motor.
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Thanks for the help. This is the motor I'm using:
It says blue wire (BL) but its actually green.
And this is how I wired the DC motor to the Zen17: Disregard the wiring on the top which are cut off on the picture. As you know those are for an optional physical switch, which I don't use.
Currently I only have the Red and black wires from the motor connected to the relay and not the sensor wires.
These are the driver settings I'm using:
Child device Relay 1 doesn't work correctly. When i try to open, it will open but then immediately reverses / closes. But child device Relay 2 works perfectly.
I'm not sure I understand when you said to "turn off the relay" I know what you mean but what parameter do I change?
Use the new driver, and those are not the settings I suggested to use.
Its not a parameter, you would just send it an off command, but you wont have the info to tell you when to do that until you wire up the open/close sensors to the inputs.
As for the motor wiring, I don't know about about how that works to know if that is correct or not.
EDIT: I read your info a little more. Looks like your device is an ACTUATOR not a DC motor. It is normally closed (no power = closed). You are trying to wire it like a DC motor which is totally wrong, if I am reading this correctly.
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Your valve diagram looked strange so i googled it. It looks like this is an "auto return" type valve. As soon as you take power from the valve it will close. You need to hold power on the valve to keep it open. You should not be wiring this valve as shown in the Zooz diagram. Just connect the motor leads to the C and NO terminals of relay 1. Nothing gets connected to relay 2. DC motor mode setting is unnecessary.
If my assumption on the valve type is accurate, disregard everything below this point....
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The motor is being powered by the NC contact of relay one.
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The "open" switch connected to S1/S2 is triggering a response based on the ZEN17 configuration. Triple check them as well. I've had some ZEN17 and ZEN16 devices that would act strange until i either perfomed an exclude/include or a factory reset.
If you can't seem to get it to work, there is another way to wire your motor that could help. The Zooz diagram isn't really wrong, but it's not how i would do it. But again, the Zooz diagram is fine and will be your best option for getting help from the community or Zooz support.
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I could be wrong but these type of valves should not be used for "always open" applications
(assuming this is main water shutoff). I am using pair of similar valves to shutoff water supply
to my washer when it is not used for preventing potential flood.
Plus (or actually minus) water supply will be off without power.
It is better to replace this valve asap.
Yes this is correct but OP did not say what the use for this valve is. Maybe it is something that is normally off, in which case this normally closed actuator is perfect for the job.
Maybe, maybe not. It should be rated for "intermittent" or "continuous" duty.
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Here is the motorized valve I am using:
I bought it on Amazon:
https://a.co/d/4vt5Vjg
I use it up in my attic to occasionally open a A/C drain line. Most of the time its closed but if I have to open it, its only for a few seconds.
As I said before, I can open the valve with child Relay 2 device using the "on" button and it stays open. I can then close it with the "off" button.
Its the sensor connections that couldn't figure out. Of course I can leave it as is and it would be fine. I can just assume its opened or closed. I just wanted to have the additional benefit of the sensors that as a confirmation of the action.
Set both Input types to "Dry Contact Switch" and then you will need to power cycle the ZEN17.
You will get two new child devices for the sensors, they will just switch on/off based on the state of the valve.
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Motor should be like this. The ZEN17 is just taking place of the switch and thats it.
You could wire B to the NC or NO, it will just reverse what on/off do. I think NO would make off on the relay = off (closed) on the valve.
Could also leave it on R2 if it is already wired and working there. Could flip A/B as well on the ZEN17 and it should not matter.
Interesting. This is very first time I am seeing a valve on the ac drain line.
I am sure, this is against all codes and common sense.
AC drain line NEVER should/must not be obstructed.
I have seen cases with a primary drain and then a secondary that has a shorter run but to a less convenient place, like the garage ceiling or something silly. That could be the case here.
Who knows what is the exact case and setup.
My good guess, some sort of water sensor must be added in order to prevent a potential disaster.
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Only the OP knows his exact setup, but in your assumed scenario, more automation is likely to introduce a false sense of security and additional points of failure. If indeed the OP has an improperly plumbed drain, the best answer is to replumb it the right way. But I wouldn't assume anything unless explicitly stated by the OP. There are just WAY too many possibilities for us to start filling in gaps in what the OP has given us.
I agree. It's a long story but its not the main drain line. It's the line to the overflow sensor. I live in South Florida. my A/c unit is in the attic. Building code doesn't allow that anymore. It gets very hot up there and the drain line will clog often. When it clogs the sensor switch will activate and shut the system down. I can clear the drain line without out issue. However the line that contains the sensor switch continues to hold water and the system remains off. So, i have to get up in the attic, drain the line from the sensor switch and then the system turns back. Getting up in the attic is a pain in the ■■■. So i came up with the idea of a valve that I can open to drain the sensor line after I cleared the clog.
Here's a picture of the plumbing.
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Thanks for the illustration. I think I got it. Should I stick with the current version of the companion device driver? I saw the "Alpha" version but didn't know if its ready for "prime time"
Makes perfect sense, your secondary overflow drain does not actually go anywhere, just to a kill switch. So you have a valve you can clear it out back into the pan. Good idea actually.
That new driver should be fine, its basically the same code as the ZEN16 driver with changes for the settings on the ZEN17, I do not forsee any issues with it. I am just waiting for one persons thoughts on how I did the setParamater function before I publish it and update all the relay drivers to 1.2.0
Its also hard to test every single setting and feature on the ZEN16/17 because they have so many ways to configure them.
