I'm trying to replace my Wemo devices and I purchased Minoston z-wave mini plugs from Amazon. No matter what I do I can't seem to add it to my hub. I'm adding it in a room where I have another z-wave device (wall switch)
After reading the compatibility list from hubitat I found that the mp31z device is not listed so I tried to add the plug as a generic z-wave switch but it still doesn't want to add to the network.
Is there any plans to support these devices?
Any ideas
I am using 8 of them with the Generic Z-Wave Outlet driver and they are working fine for me.. I didn't specify that driver, it's just what Hubitat chose.
I originally added them using smart start (scanning the QR) but later removed them all and readded with no security. (click the button 3 x's, exclude, click 3 more, include)
I did have one that was a little stubborn *literally right next to one that added without issue so I moved it closer to the hub and added it then moved it back but otherwise they haven't given me trouble
here's a link to the manual if you need it https://minoston.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/MP31ZZW36Mmanual-1.pdf
If the Generic Z-Wave Plug driver suggested by @kenrok1 doesn't work (but it should!) you can also try the Eva Logik plug drivers - several of us have found that the eva logik drivers play well w/Minoston devices.
Follow this advice about adding without security - you don't need the extra overhead of S2 security w/a plug.
In most cases, even if there isn't a driver, a device should add to the hub. (I will put an asterisk here because there will be someone who will prove me wrong).
In my experience, the device will do one of a few things if it isn't a supported device.
These Minoston pair and work fine on Hubitat. Your issue is likely to be one of range, (not being close enough to the hub signal-wise to pair), or using an improper procedure to begin pairing (wrong or too slow button press etc.), or maybe you need to exclude the device before inclusion.
I just got one of these to try. Not having very good experience so far. I couldn't get it to pair up, even after a factory reset. So I went right next to my C-8 and on the second try it connected. It seemed to work fine and I switched to an Eva Logik driver which seemed to work fine as well.
I moved it to the location I need it to be and no luck. Moved it a bit closer to the hub and I got updates when I manually turned it on or off, but couldn't send it a command. Tried a couple of different drivers with the same results.
Tried to see if it would exclude and it finally did on the 2nd or 3rd try. Again wouldn't include even after a factory reset.
Any suggestions?
Sorry dont have any new advice on getting them to add or remove, other than what I posted above...
but I did want to share am using this driver now: hubitat/min-smart-plug.src/min-smart-plug.groovy at main · sky-nie/hubitat · GitHub
(mainly because I have a few that I wanted to have auto turn off after a certain time)
I found a reference elsewhere to indicate the MP21Z and MP31Z are essentially the same "guts" in different packages.
This sounds like you potentially have a mesh issue. Weak, interference, distance, etc.
Could you please post a screenshot of your complete Z-wave details page? (Settings tab, Z-wave Details) It is OK if it takes a couple screenshots to get all the columns and rows. A desktop screenshot is much easier to read for diagnosis if you are able to get it that way.
Here is a full capture (long) of my Z-Wave. There are 3 nodes w/out routing. 1 is a NanoMote (Z-wave button remote) that works just fine, one is an outdoor relay circuit that gets unplugged for the winter and the other is a spare motion sensor that I took the batteries out of a few months back since I am not using it at the moment.
That thermostat, node 0x16 (22) is crazy! Something is going on there!!!
The kids siren 0x46 (70) also seems to be struggling a bit, and the Master Bath Siren 0x45 (69) isn't all that great either.
That isn't the best idea. Sometimes you get away with it, but in a struggling mesh or where it was repeating for other nodes, you might be causing some chaos by removing it.
The motion sensor that is disabled is fine, as long as it is a battery only sensor, not line or USB powered. Nor was it joined with USB and moved to battery.
What model is the Zooz motion sensor 0x19(25) paired as S0? Is this the older square one? Those can get pretty chatty, especially with S0. I think they only paired with S0, you had no choice, unless you pair with a Z-stick. If it is the newer round ones, it would be better with the newer S2 pairing, or none.
@jtp10181 or @rlithgow1 opinions???
It is probably the older 500 chip ZSE40. I dont think the 700 series model can pair in S0 at all.
If it has the 32.x firmware, it can be updated to the latest version 32.12 which eliminates the motion alert every 7 seconds during active motion. There is also a setting on my custom driver that will make it only send ONE alert per event, vs the default of sending two different types of events. [DRIVER] Zooz Sensors Advanced (ZSE40, ZSE41, ZSE42, ZSE44)
Here is the info from my driver post:
NOTE: The ZSE40 v2 with 500 chip has a final firmware update to 32.12 that you can get from Zooz. This sends alerts to the hub at the start and end of active motion only. The repeated alerts every 8 seconds was removed. This will greatly cut down on excessive z-wave traffic.
NOTE: For the original ZSE40 (500 series) FW < 32.12 I would HIGHLY recommend changing Parameter 8 to "Notification Reports Only". For the ZSE40-700 I am myself leaving it at the default to make sure no motion reports get missed.
You also had me curious so I looked up what the PER actually is, Packet Error Rate. Never knew that. I usually look at the custom app that gives the Z-wave details, that shows the error count, or maybe it is the PER and labeled wrong, I will have to pay closer attention to it after my stats build up again after just rebooting.
@jim6 How long since the last reboot when you took that screenshot? Those stats reset every reboot, so that is critical to know.
That is a crazy amount of route changes and the 722ms time is probably one of the highest I have ever seen on this forum, even disregarding the error count. Even if the hub was up for months at a time, those numbers seem pretty excessive, especially compared to nearly every other device.
What would be impressive is if the hub has only been up for a day and it had that many route changes, 
I wonder if that Stat is battery powered and FLiRS like a door lock, is there such a thing? If I command my locks a bunch of times they re-route a bunch as well. A thermostat would be much more chatty than a lock, and also possibly receiving a lot of commands from the hub if you have an intricate schedule. Lots of commands = lots of FLiRS beams, which are apparently very bad for the mesh.
I think some are, or maybe something similar to FLiRS? I also seem to recall that some of these can be repeaters or not depending on if they were paired line-powered or battery.
This one from that same brand, (not sure the same model as @jim6 ) shows they are "Thermostat-HVAC / Listening Sleeping Slave" Z-Wave Protocol Implementation Conformance Statement
I restarted the hub (including a full shut down) over the weekend when I was working on a few issues. So these are with 4-5 days of running. I went ahead and powered up the spair motion sensor and excluded it. Tomorrow I will work on getting the relay circuit plugged in so it is at least in the mesh.
I'm guessing I should exclude the troublesome thermostat, which, BTW, is a CT101, and give it a bit to stabilize before trying to add it back in?
Any other suggestions?
Thanks
Do you have the stat connected to a C wire for power or is it running off batteries? Looks like it might have the option for either. Have you changed that at all since you included it? (Going from main power to battery AFTER inclusion is very bad).
And yes, if its not a big deal, excluding that stat may be a good test to see if that's what is causing the chaos.
The relay, was showing only 1 neighbor so it should not be hurting anything, but for eliminating potential issues it would not be a bad idea to get it powered up somewhere.
Yes, the stat is on a C wire. We have a few random power outages, but our generator usually kicks in w/in a minute, so that shouldn't be an issue. I was able to easily exclude it this morning and got the pond keep-fill relay plugged in and it connected just fine. I'll probably shut down my hub later today when I get a chance for a bit and then restart it and let it settle in for a bit before trying to connect the Minoston that brought up all of this. We'll see how it goes.
Thanks everyone for your input. Always open to more suggestions!
Well... This is disappointing!
I plugged the Minoston in upstairs, almost directly above my hub that is downstairs. I was able to get it included choosing no security, and it works fine with either the Generic Outlet or Eva Logic Smart Plug drivers. I then move it to an outlet a little further away that has some switches between it and the hub. I cannot send a command to it. BUT, if I manually click the button that turns it on/off, the hub receives that update. It just can't send anything to the plug. About ready to give up and send it back, but I really want it to work. And I want to make sure it is not my mesh, but everything else looks fine as far as I can tell.
You could try a repair on the nodes that it is routing through, if it is repeating through others. You could try, but it might fail, to do a repair on this device itself.
It usually isn't recommended, but I might even try a full repair, if other things don't help. I wouldn't do this often, or even a couple times in a row. Do the repair and let it settle overnight.
If that is the only device that isn't working, then maybe it is truly defective.
I agree, move it into position and then do a full repair. If you get nodes that fail make note and then you can try individual repairs. I have around 50 devices and I can do a full repair and only get 1-2 that fail the first try.
I did as you suggested and no go. It will only work if it is within 10-15 feet of the hub and has a direct connection. It will not work through the mesh. I'm just going to return it and move on.
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