So I’m just about done changing every switch out in my house with Lutron Caseta and picos.
However, I’ve run into a couple areas which I think will require the dimmer since the on/off switch in these areas don’t have a neutral.
I just want to confirm, will the dimmer work? The box only has a white, black and a ground wire. So my assumption is that the main line with power is at the light instead of the switch.
There is a Lutron Caseta On-Off switch that does not require a neutral. It's a PD-5WS-DV-(Color Code, e.g. WH for White).
The wiring instructions:
What it looks like:
@mik3, I have one of the switches indicated by @Eric.C.Miller connected to an LED fixture. I needed to add the Lutron minimum load capacitor at the fixture to stop the fixture from flickering when the switch was off.
They seem to be including those (LUT-MLC) in the box now. I don't know if this is something new - I haven't used many of these as I have neutrals almost everywhere.
- I bought mine as a warehouse deal. My next guest bathroom remodel, I'm definitely bringing neutrals into the two boxes that don't have them. The rest of old house has neutrals - rewiring after Katrina.
It sounds like it’s best to have them with netruels then ?
My thought is, I’m going to move a dimmer from another location and put the on/off switch in place of it.
I’ve already purchased and have this sitting on my table.
But to confirm will the dimmer work in this location???
No, the MLC is made for this use. I didn't mean to imply that it was bad to use the MLC. Only that it's an extra step.
Edit - the PD-6ANS requires a neutral. But no MLC is needed.
It depends what your wiring (and your skills) can support.
I have used the PD-5WS-DV switch (no neutral) in several spots for both lighting and fans without issues, and I didn’t even need to add the MLC module.
But as @aaiyar said, the switch you have now requires a neutral.
Understood.
Can I use one of my current dimmers that don’t require a neutral in this location?
Depends what you’re connecting to the dimmer.
Taking another look at this, I’d say you should check with a multimeter. I learned how to use one when I got interested in smart switches, prior to that I really didn’t know much about home wiring.
Your neutral must be up at the light, but you could still have a hot line from the breaker in your switch box.
Never assume anything when it comes to 110 or 220V wiring though...
I have a meter that lights to check for hot.
I’ve wired quite a bit including a brand new basement.
The problem is when I haven’t wired in a long time you tend to forget. I usually disconnect stuff and start logically separating stuff out and finding where the hot wire comes from. I also base existing switches to determine where the lines run, to a light, to a three way, etc...
It’s very likely the next hop for the hot wire comes off that light. But only have one 14/2 gauge in the box, it has to come from the one hallway light.
I could easily disconnect the light to find out for sure if need be.
I did what sounds like a similar circuit today but I am reluctant to advise without knowing.
What's the load you need to switch? Is it not a light?
Yeah just a light.
I just want to know if the Lutron dimmer will work on this is all.
I think it should work. Is it not a dim-able bulb? Or just no need to dim?
Most of the "Smart" switches seem to be relays so they are really just on and off.
The dimmer probably ramps up even if you just use the on button. As long as that wouldn't damage what ever the load is, and you don't exceed the rating on the dimmer, I would think it would be OK.
Warning - I flunked electrical engineering about 45 years ago.
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