The Rule is doing it's 'Lego block' portion. It's telling the driver what to do. But I don't think the driver is talking to your Thermostat and vv the Thermo isn't sending to Hubitat.. that's my hypothesis at this moment. (Love to be WRONG, of course.)
I wonder if I broke it by adjusting the temp on the physical device when I was about to freeze to death? Do you think I have to remove it and re-pair it or something? I mean it was working on the schedule just fine for a couple days. Its just the whole "Away with nothing to switch back to" debacle that interrupted it's train of thought...
No, touching the physical is allowed. Same as a Light switch or dimmer.
Set it to be comfortable. Freezing won't help.
Great, can throw out the not-Joined-to-Hubitat hypothesis
What driver are you using?
With live logs running....
On the device info page for the thermostat, click Save Preferences, the page will auto refresh, then click Configure again.
Now it's gone back down t cold since its after 11pm
Maybe the Thermostat has just fallen off the Z-Wave network? Unlike IRIS, I don't see an easy way to tell?
Sorry.. I missed a step.. turning on debug... should have been:
What driver are you using?
With live logs running....
On the device info page for the thermostat, click Enable Debug Logging, then click Save Preferences, the page will auto refresh, then click Configure again.
Debug logging was turned on... I toggled it though. Seems the same:
dev:1022019-02-20 11:25:09.585 pm debugOrbit 12 Station Irrigation Controller, parse description: read attr - raw: 3A3C0100060800001000, dni: 3A3C, endpoint: 01, cluster: 0006, size: 08, attrId: 0000, encoding: 10, command: 0A, value: 00
And it's using "Generic Z-Wave Thermostat"
Hey! It woke up! It's now set to 70 degrees on the physical device!
Can it only change when it passes the set time? It can't just be in the time frame?
So the event is the change from False to True. You may be able to make a rule that is true when you make it, but unless the edge of it happens after you make the rule it doesn't truly take effect, I guess.
I see now.. battery device and the driver also polls. A battery device does not 'wake' often, maybe once an hour. It's how it conserves battery.
Ok, here's a review of Hubitat and Events.
Hubitat reacts to Events.. nothing else. Sunrise is an Event. 6:15 (for your thermostat) is an event. 6:16 is not.
IHubitat doesn't react to state. A door sensor detects a change. The CHANGE is an event, the fact the door is left open or closed is nothing. You can deduce that the door is still open because you didn't get the Closed Event. But Rules get evaluated when one of the elements changes.
You can click Done on a Rule and it gets evaluated (because Done acts like an event.)
AhHa! OK. Not sure what the implications of the polling are for me, but I'll ask that tomorrow! Til then, i can't thank you enough for all this advice. I'm getting warmer already ;). Cheers!
scroll to the bottom of the Device info page.. you'll see an area called Scheduled Jobs. I believe there's an entry there for a specific time that Hubitat will poll your thermo. Probably a second one for disabling Debug (30 mins auto disable)
I don't use this driver and my thermo isn't zwave so I can only guess what the poll is doing. Maybe someone that knows will chime in, tomorrow.
One suggestion, which you probably already considered... If you can get a C-wire to the thermostat it will not need to sleep (to conserve batteries) which will make it much more responsive. It'll also act as a Z-Wave repeater as well. Plus you won't need to keep feeding batteries to it.
Basic reason with the list is given Iris drops end of March, it's be easier to get the basics replaced and going. Then take it from there on the other goodies. Stuff like ceiling fan controls or driveway sensors. The "would like" after the "must have" kind of items.
I was an Iris user since the Gen 1 and went through the forced upgrade to Gen 2 which was rough and not well received by most. I have finished migrating all of my devices and once I got the hang of HE I was able to implement things much faster and with a level of customization that I could never have touched in Iris.
You and the team have done an excellent job with the videos on getting started, but I love having a document to look at. I also love the community concept, but for a new user it can be overwhelming at first especially when you see some really amazing ideas that the other community members have implemented.
Here are my thoughts on making a smoother transition for other Iris users, which could probably be thrown into a document labeled as such. I don't mind if you put it in the community, but a link to it on the tutorials page would be a huge help for new users.
- Explain the 4 main applications needed.
With Iris essentially these four apps were already installed and there very few choices that could be made on them.
- Hubitat Safety Monitor
The only thought is one you've already heard. That is Iris had different terminology which I was previously attached to like my Iris users, but after moving to HE and thinking bigger picture I have abandoned it and even relabeled my keypads with Home and Away.
- Lock Code Manager
One of my biggest issues with Iris was their insistence that the alarm pin should be the pin for all locks; however, their setup was easy since I had no control. Setting up the lock was a bit different, but the functionality in HE is awesome.
Iris had a default layout in their app. They had sections for each item/device (e.g. alarm, switches, etc.) and if you didn't have a certain device then it was blank. If you did have the device then it was in the list. For the developers on your team, think a single column of tiles with a scrollable view that are grouped by device type and then ordered alpha numerically. This would also quickly port into a portable app in the future.
- Rule Machine
I started using RM very heavily until I hit a wall and realized that all the basic functionality I was after was in the HSM. Now I just have some rules that turn on/off lights. There are a couple of virtual buttons I setup to control HSM so that my keypads would be linked with a digital keypad I developed in an android app that controls my HE Dashboard. I will release a screenshot soon to Show Off Your Dashboards!.
- Hubitat Safety Monitor
As I mentioned, you and the team have done an amazing job. Much of the explanations of the mentioned applications are in the community. I'm simply suggesting a single document specifically for an Iris user that points a page (preferably without comments) on each subject along with some supplemental info specifically for them. For instance, the getting started section has a lot of info, but the four apps mentioned above aren't at the top of that list, so you have to know what you are looking for to find it. This is just the kind of thing I prefer a cliff notes over a video. Once the other Iris users get through the initial setup and past the growing pains, I don't think they will look back.
Great perspective and helpful suggestions. This is appreciated. It also points out that a user's needs have a lot to do with where they are coming from. Having a fairly large number of Iris users migrating under some time pressure really brought out some of the areas where more work (instructions and documentation) is needed.
Very good ideas. But I don’t think that the time and resources should focus just on Iris users, because I think just updated docs and more new user transition docs will cover a large field, and be more relevant long term.
I think someone coming from Iris, Wink, ST, or no hub at all can still use general docs. The HE team only has so much time and resources.
After March ends you won’t see specific Iris user transition unless they are coming from another hub after that.
While I like videos, they can be only relevant to the release, it takes more resources and time to do videos. Prime example is the HE Alexa App vs HE Alexa Skill.
I think there needs to be more stickies or pinned threads.
If you have a soldering iron and rosin core solder you can carefully disassemble them and solder the contact back on. Then take some epoxy and epoxy the contact. I have successfully repaired the one I am currently using that way.