I use Iris v2 3210-L outlets as my repeaters and have had very good luck with them. All of mine are up to date with the last firmware that was released for them. I actually bought an Iris hub early last year for ~$25 new from Lowes, in order to upgrade all of the firmware on these Iris devices. I figured I might only get one shot at it, before Iris was shut down. A SmartThings hub can be used to upgrade the firmware on Iris Motion and Contact sensors, but not the Iris outlets.
The only issue I believe may exist with the 3210-L outlets running older firmware is with the Z-Wave repeater side of things. Since you already have some of these outlets, if you turn them over, you'll find the main product label. If yours also have a small, white, rectangular barcode label, there is a very good chance that they are running the latest firmware.
I'm not sure if this is the answer you're looking for but I hope it helps. I have many IRIS devices Gen 1 and Gen 2 and I've never had an issue with Hubitat. The only "Issue" was communicating with 1 device in my garage. Admittedly it was far from other devices when I experienced this issue. All I did was install a Gen 1 outlet (#SPG902) in between troubled device and a working device and never experienced an issue again. Best of luck!
So I have been following this post in order to pair the Z-Wave Repeater side of the 3210-Ls and am not having any luck so far. I have been able to pair the Zigbee without any problems but z-wave is just not working. Do you guys have any recommendations? I have 5 of them, 3 of which have the extra barcode sticker. Based on what I have read those are the ones that work with Z-Wave. Also when pairing, do you only get one chance per factory reset? Also is there any visual indication of the LEDs that the Z-Wave is in pairing mode?
Update:
I eventually paired all 5 of my plugs, lucky me considering only 3 had the barcode stickers, using the post linked above. I seemed to get the best results by sitting as closely to the hub as possible.
I donât think there is any restriction on the number of times you can reset.
Since I posted this I helped walk a friend through pairing a few of these. We actually had to reset his hub to get to pair after it hung.
So couldnât hurt to reset the plug and to reboot the hub.
Cheers.
Mac
Reset to factory default
Unplug device from the wall.While holding the front button, re-insert device into the receptacle. Once the blue light illuminates, release button to factory reset.
The two without the barcode stickers MAY cause more issues on your Z-Wave mesh than they are worth. The issue with the old firmware is not that they wouldn't pair...it was that they were potentially not good Z-Wave repeaters. At least, that is my understanding.
If you decided to Z-Wave Exclude the two without barcode stickers, please move the plugs within close proximity of the HE hub. Then, using the correct Z-Wave Repeater device, start the removal/exclusion procedure. Click the button 8 times very quickly on the outlet and hopefully you'll see that the hub has removed the device. If it doesn't work on the first try, try, try again.
I believe this is also how to start the Z Wave pairing after you have paired the zigbee part of the plug. Has to be very quick as sometimes it get interpreted as an on/off function. If so you must start the Z-wave portion again.
Is there any way to know what firmware they are using, when using this driver, it seems to list a bunch of device details and they are the same across all devices. That's why I figured the barcode-less plugs just got updated.
Note: All 5 of these plugs were purchased recently from eBay.
I am not familiar with @srwhite's driver for the 3210-L outlets. I have always just used the built-in Hubitat drivers. Steve mentioned recently that he might tweak his driver to display the firmware version.
Yep, I've bought from the same ebay seller numerous times. I paired each 3210-L with my SmartThings hub, then looked at the device details in the ST Web IDE to determine the firmware version. That is when I noticed the correlation between the extra little barcode sticker and the firmware version. I am not saying this correlation is true for all 3210-L outlets, but it was for my small sample size. YMMV, of course.
Not sure why I havent posted this here before, but if you're using any of the Iris V1 kit, I have a selection of drivers for AlertMe-based devices which I'm using with all of my security gear.
Many of the earlier devices were the same as the original UK models (save for some colour changes here and there) so I'd be interested to know if anybody has success with these.
These drivers try to expose as many of the device features as possible and provide presence detection, which is useful for keeping an eye on your security mesh.
Ah, sadly not. The keypad was never launched in the UK, so I don't have one to investigate. Even if I did, as I understand it there's a fair bit of work involved in getting it to behave.
However, I know it can be done. The platform I used before Hubitat, SystronicsRF, had full support for it. They spent quite some time working on it because it was one of the top devices requested by their US customers.
