Currently working on a bathroom remodel and have installed a Panasonic WhisperThin fan/light (RG-T810LHA). It has a built in nightlight that I thought I would wire to a Lutron Caseta Dimmer (PD-6WCL).
There ends up being enough power bleed from the dimmer that the nightlight never fully turns off. I had assumed it was the lack of a neutral that was causing the issue so I tried a switch (PD-5ANS) I already had on hand and saw the same issue.
I picked up the Lutron LUT-MLC and installed it with the switch, but that didn't help either. I have not tried the MLC with the dimmer yet. The nightlight LED is listed as 1w.
I'm thinking of switching to the Zooz Zen51 and PICO instead, I had ended up using a Zooz Zen51 and Pico on the fan control wire, and so far that setup seems to be working.
Before I order another Zen51 and Pico. Does any one have any other thoughts or Ideas?
I believe you need a load resistor across the nightlight because it doesn’t draw enough current. Aeotec makes one (calls it a “Bypass” for some reason), others do too. It’s been discussed a few times here in the forum a few years ago in the context of using Lutron dimmers to control overhead can LED lights that wouldn’t dim to off.
I’ve used the MLC successfully a few times. IIRC the minimum load for the Caseta dimmers is 10w. I’ve only used them on fixtures that were 5w, so the MLC only needed to make up for the remaining 5w.
The MLC might work when combined with the dimmer as the dimmer soaks up a bit more juice. You might need to adjust the bottom trim with the dimmer.
Surprisingly they've responded already. The want me to pull the FASS tab and validate the light status as well as the status of the switch. Unfortunately, I won't get to test this until after the holidays. I honestly didn't expect that quick of a response this time of the year to a web support form.
I'm guessing they want to validate the bleed is from the switch and not another source.
Please do keep us updated. We have a house full of Lutron Caseta switches and dimmers but there are some loads for which I've avoided them for just this reason.
After doing the FASS tab pull and providing Lutron the requested info they've come back saying this may be a case were more than one of the MLC's are needed. They said up to 3 can be used on the circuit. I'll provide another update after i receive the 2 additional MLC's and can get them installed. .
Thank you for keeping us updated and I hope the additional MLCs work for you. I've long been a fan of Lutron Caseta, but as we've tried to use them in our new home with very efficient lighting and devices, I've lost some of my admiration. The fact that their most common dimmers can't be programmed to a lower level than full on when you turn the thing on is maddening, for example (yes, everyone, I know about using Picos and adjusting the trim level, but neither are true solutions). Such a fantastic signaling system and product line, marred by some truly stupid and fixable decisions.
After FedEx decided to sit on the package for almost 2 weeks because of the snow, I finally had a chance to install the additional MLCs today. Unfortunately, even after all 3 were installed there is still a faint glow from the LED. I've reached back out to Lutron support to see what they offer next. I will say that each additional MLC reduced the brightness to the point that it didn't actually add any light to the room, It was just a faint glow.
Thanks for reporting back. Personally, I've decided to go low tech in our bathrooms. A simple timer with settings of 10, 20, 30, 60 min for the fan and a simple on/off, non-automated switch for the light. If someone leaves it on, it draws so little power it won't matter. The older I get, the less I'm automating everything and instead doing only "targeted interventions".
Lutron just isn't the right thing for some lamps/lights. That is especially true with their no-neutral dimmers. When their no-neutral dimmers work, they work great. But when they don't, there isn't much you can do to fix it, the lights and these dimmers simply aren't compatible.
I have some recessed LED pucks that buzz like a chainsaw on these Lutron dimmers, yet they are perfectly happy with my Zooz dimmers.
I think you are better off using a smart relay type of switch instead of Electronics Lutron switch/dimmer. The night light is rated 0.1 to 0.4 W. That's very very low for any electronics dimmer/switch. We don't even know if it's a dimmable light either.
I can understand that. I really hadn't decided how far I was going to go with automations in the bathroom. The fan had its own humidity sensor so was nothing for me to do there. Mainly was moving everything to the same style switch. I started this slow process prior to the Diva being release. I didn't want to go back and replace the ones I had already bought to switch to the paddle style.
Pretty much a similar response from Lutron. There recommendation if I wanted to keep it on the Lutron switch was to add more load. I'll go the zen51 and Pico route that I did with the fan signal wire and use the switch in another location
