I have three of the Inovelli 4-in-1 motion and they have done a good job for me and they are fast at reporting and been reliable and have not fail in the few months that they have been in service. I would recommend these.
Hmmm, unfortunately there doesn't appear to be a UK supplier for the Inovelli kit - I assume that the tech would still work over here in the UK? My Hubitat came with a UK USB dongle, but I'm not sure if that's for the ZWave or Zigbee stuff,
No. The US has a different Z-wave frequency than the UK. Inovelli primarily develops in-wall dimmers/switches. So, they only sell American Z-wave devices.
Doesn't follow the Zigbee standard and requires specific repeaters to work correctly. Otherwise they will get knocked off your network and need to be repaired. Unless you only use Ikea repeaters, I would not recommend these.
Hubitat is not a zigbee 3.0 controller. In the case that the controller is not Zigbee 3.0, the device fails back to the ZHA profile. And the ZHA profile used by Xiaomi in all of their other devices is the reason they keep falling off the network. So, until somebody shows me that these work with something like an Iris plug as a repeater, I think it's irresponsible to suggest they work with everything right out of the box.
I use a NYCE ceiling motion sensor in our hallway bathroom for precisely this reason. It looks vaguely like a (small) smoke detector, doesn't flash or anything when motion is detected, I can't imagine anyone even notices it's there.
Unless they're a weirdo like me, in which case they might think to themselves, "that thing looks like a really small smoke detector. I wonder if it's photoelectric, ionization, or both. I should probably get up on a ladder to take a closer look."
Not much you can do about that, but luckily anyone like that is probably already on this forum and won't be freaked out by it .
UPS just delivered my Inovelli 4-in-1 Sensor today. Not interested in the motion side but wanted the light, temperature and humidity sensors. Set it up tonight and will watch the light readings. My primary interest is being able to turn on indoor lights in my family room without a trigger to the sunset with a - offset which is what I have today. I'm going to watch the lux readings to come up with a lux trigger. I also want to see how the indoor lights affect the lux reading based on where I'm placing the device. I found a good place in my entertainment center where the lights in the room provide insignificant light.
Right now it looks like the three sensors I'm watching are right on target for accuracy. The fun part is I want to cover cloudy or stormy weather and possibly turn on the lights when the clouds roll in but if the sunshine breaks through, turn them back off. I'm new to this so it should be an interesting exercise.
Ultimately I used Hue outdoor motion sensors, which support lux to do my indoor light automation. When the outside lux are below a certain point...about 1500 lux for most of my automation, the lights in certain rooms come on. This way, I don't have to worry about indoor light pollution. It also handles cloudy days well, as well as seasonal variation without arbitrarily complex rules.
I just couldn't wrap my head around measuring lux in an artificially lit room as the basis for a trigger.
@scottgu3 I'm using sunset -45 to get the lights on which works well. The issue for me is on cloudy days or when storms roll through the light level in my family room drops off enough for us to need some additional lights. I've got the sensor pointed up towards my skylights on a vaulted ceiling. It sits on top of an entertainment center. I found the sensor pretty much ignores the room lighting which are at people level. So when they skylight view gets dimmer I just calculate the point where the room lighting becomes useful. It also keeps the sensor away from the windows where the temperature sensors are impacted by the window.
It ended up after watching how to build rules, the rule to trigger the lighting and to turn it off when not needed was unusually easy to build.
Ah! Skylights. Now that's a good solution. I like it.
Your rule sounds like it works similarly to mine, barring the indoor v outdoor sensors.
I used to use sunset/sunrise, however now I simply use lux <1500, and restrict the times to the hours people are actually up and about in my house. This way I capture cloudy days as you mentioned.
I also use lux for my exterior lighting, so the front porch, deck, basement entry and driveway lights all come on as it approaches "dark" ~150 lux or so.
I have a few motion lights that are activated 24x7x365, regardless of light level, but these are stairwell lights, some basement lighting, and kitchen under cabinet lighting (because snacks!).
The inovelli 4-in-1 is my first venture in devices outside of smart bulbs and a dimmer and 2 GE outdoor switches. I was a Wink person so I'm on a learning curve at this point. Wink's standstill sort of blunted any expansion of my network. I'm very happy about the Hubitat choice. Gotta learn the Groovy language that drives this stuff.
The 4in1 is a good choice. I have a Zooz 4 in 1, and a whole host of the Samsung Zigbee motion sensors. I like them a lot, relatively cheap and fast.
I've found that lighting automation like what your working on is really probably the most bang for the buck in automation with regards to WAF, so you're definitely on the right track.
Well my first rule based job works! At least in an evening situation. I over estimated the light level I needed for triggering the lights so I made a patch to lower the level.