Should have done this a while ago...
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Hi all, your solutions all look great. Just a small tidbit from an old, lazy person of the group, to save some soldering for anyone else attempting this setup. All 3 buttons within the Chamberlain/Liftmaster remote are referenced to battery neg. Therefore you only need a max of 4 wires if you want to connect all 3 buttons... Neg, But1, But2, and But3. Less wires if you need less buttons. i.e. My install uses 3 wires and 2 buttons. You would then jumper the Neg wire to all the 'C' or 'Com' terminals on the relays. Then the individual button wires to the individual 'NO' terminals.
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I love soldering and use any excuse to do it!
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Reposting here - from Zooz GDO thread.
Here's my setup. HE C5, multisensor, ZEN17, Garadget Security+ 2.0 dry contact adapter, plus this GDO app.
I'm running into a couple of issues. First, regardless of your intent, closing the contact on the ZEN17 performs a button "push" on the adapter and it doesn't know your actual intent (open/close/stop) - it just pushes it. Where this becomes a problem is with multiple "pushes". I have a routine that is supposed to open the garage door when anyone arrives, but if the routine is delayed (presence via Life360 because HE presence is 80% right) and then the driver doesn't know if HE is going to open the door and pushes the button in the car, whoever pushes first starts opening, and then the second one stops the opening. Zooz GDO gets frustrated and says it failed to open.
Second thing is a weirdness with the ZEN17 it seems the driver wants to close/open the contact with 2 second delay, but the ZEN17 has a built-in 1 second delay and it gets confused and ends up remaining on vs off - which then 100% fails to work from HE (can't turn some that's on on or turning it on doesn't work because it is already on).
Have you considered using the Zooz Garage Door Opener app (and device driver)? It creates a virtual garage door that takes commands open and close, and does exactly what you tell it. Of course, you could probably do similar with a rule, but this was the path I took.
Yes, using Zooz GDO. HE tells vGD to open or close which closes the contact for 2 seconds then opens it again. Problem is the Zooz GDO doesn't realize the wife hit the button in the car 3 seconds before it sends the "open" command and that actually causes the door to stop.
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Bummer, I don't know of a way to mitigate a dumb remote vs automation command issue. For day-to-day use, we still use the dumb wall switch & our dumb remotes in each car -- I love Life360, but it just ain't that reliable. So, for us, the capability to open/close the door via HE is just a nice-to-have "by exception" thing -- I don't have any rules that do it automatically.
For 1-2 second button issue re: mimicking a momentary button push, I know you can program the Z17 relay itself to go auto-off after the desired number of seconds or you can use the option in the Zooz GDO app to do a 2-sec delay -- are you by chance using both options? You should just use one or the other...
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I think I would break these down into separate issues. I am not using Zooz. I'm using a smart implant and ecolink tilt sensor. Yes, I'm using a button to control it. See above post. To me it seems like a timing issue potentially the sensor slow to respond. Placement of the sensor on the door is important I'm not sure what sensor you're using. I manually open and close my door without issue I have two buttons. One button is connected to the garage door which is then connected to the relay. And then I have a separate wired button by the interior garage door when you walk in.
For me the responsiveness is instant as soon as I click the virtual switch in HE the door pretty much responds. My solution does not seem to get confused between manually opening the door and automation controls.
As far as present sensors, I use Life360 and HE presence sensor. I have a UniFi Wi-Fi and I leverage that application to numerate those mobile devices. Using a presence combination application to get a more accurate response for presence. However, this is probably a whole other topic.
How I would tackle this is first figure out the responsiveness of getting to the door to respond. Then how fast the sensor responds to open and close. And finally I would work on the presence last. If the door doesn't work properly it doesn't matter so much about the presence.
That's my two cents at least.
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Thank you for the detailed response - appreciated. I just went and tested again - here's what I found.
If I open the door with Zooz GDO button - it starts to open. If I then push the wall or remote button it stops where it is (expected). Zooz GDO then reports 'open' because my sensor (SmartSense Multi Sensor V4) reports open. Then if I push open on the Zooz GDO - nothing - because it thinks it is open. If I push close it opens (because from "stopped" state a button push will only open). Then Zooz reports failed to close and shows state as open.
As to responsiveness, I would say from HE button push to activation is < 2 seconds. The multisensor changes from closed to open maybe 4 seconds later. Fully open is ~12 seconds. I left the default 15 setting in Zooz and though the multi only knows open/closed and not partly open/closed the Zooz only reports as closed when door is fully closed. Meh.
Like most, I also have been using Life360 for arrival/departure because it is WAY more effective of reporting than the Hubitat iPhone app (fails more than succeeds). I am (today) incorporating the iPhone WiFi presence and the Combined Presence apps - never tried them, but initially looks promising using Life360 or HE App for departure and any of the 3 for arrival may get me better results. But yeah, could start a new topic on presence.
This is where your sensor might be important where it's placed on the door. Typically it's in the upper corner. The idea is as soon as the door is opened it shows opened. In your case maybe in the middle of the door might be a better alternative or even lower. It all depends on what you're trying to accomplish.
May want to consider a different door sensor.
Or try a different application.
I hope that makes sense and it helps.
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Yeah, it's at top and it does show open just after it starts moving - so that is as expected.
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So how do you have the relay connected to your garage door switch? Are you using a physical hardwired button or are you using a remote? It could be the response of the relay to the button where it's either not providing a long enough close to trigger the door or you need a double tap to accomplish what you're looking to do. If you hit the button without the relay where the relay is connected to. What happens?
It's about breaking the problems down into smaller parts. But I would make sure that wherever the relay is connected to responds exactly the way you wanted to and then understand what the relay needs to accomplish.
I've been using the MyQ app flawlessly since I switched to HE Sep 2019.
I have the add-on MyQ wall panel and Hub used with a Chamberlain GDO.
The door will open if the bell wires are shorted - connected to the wall opener or not. I don't need GDO light control via HE as I've got Garage lights covered with a z-wave switch and automations.
I plan to use the MHCOZY 1-channel zigbee relay for door control.
My questions is this: Currently I use the MyQ Lite app as a "Lock" and have to supply a PIN to open it with Alexa. How would I accomplish this with the change - virtual lock?
No PIN required as setup with a single button in HE dashboard. Mostly I use the hubitat dashboard app by @jpage4500 for any non-automated/spoken tasks. It's unclear to me how I might do the same with a virtual GDO driver in this scenario.
My MyQ add-on wall switch (with external MyQ hub) has an onboard PCB, supercaps(which I have replaced once) (Chamberlain GDO with battery) and light switch, timers, motion, etc. and only requires a momentary short on the bell wires to open/close the garage door.
Is it Security+ 2.0 (yellow learn button)?
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The dry contact adapter (2.0 push button) is wired directly to the garage door opener and directly to the ZEN17. Pushing the button on the contact adapter works as expected.
Apparently not. Purple learn button on the GDO itself.
The MyQ wall switch has the Security + 2.0
It's the Chamberlain branded version of this:
Thanks for that link! I'm working on setting this up this weekend. One question: I've got the old type of GDO where you just short across 2 terminals to trigger it. Is there an advantage to wiring the wall button into the Zooz like they show vs. just wiring it in parallel with the Zooz at the GDO terminals? Just wouldn't want the Zen17 to die and not be able to use my GDO buttons.
The advantage there is that Hubitat will know that the button was pressed. I think, though I have not tested this, that the zooz might still trigger the button even if it can’t communicate with The hub, so if this is the case, the only risk is if the Zooz itself doesn’t work. Might be worth testing this out!
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If your GDO operates when the two wires to the wall opener are momentarily shorted, you could simply use a relay connected anywhere along its path, and that would accomplish open/close. With a sensor involved, you will also know the state of open/close.
The advantage of wiring through the SW terminals on the Zooz is that you will know when the open/close is initiated by the wall switch and can say opening/closing for a selected period of time. Not sure how that could be useful. You'll already know when the door is closing via automation. Maybe I'm missing something, but I can't see any good reason to prefer that way.
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