Folks are looking into it, but the prognosis doesn't sound very encouraging at this point.
I (and most folks here) would definitely recommend a solution like that over waiting to see if MyQ can be salvaged. Inevitably, this broken-cloud cycle will repeat with MyQ yet again. Having local control is always a solid win over the cloud.
I was just wondering how you figure out which terminals you hook the wires to inside the remote. I am not afraid to solder but need to know which terminals. I set my meter to ohms and checked the terminals but I get continuity in a couple of different ways. Do I just find 2 terminals that have no continuity until the switch is pressed? Any help will be appreciated.
Good words. I am a tremendous open source advocate. I have looked for a decent zwave or zigbee dry contact relay, but I haven't found one yet.
If local Wifi would be an option for you, I have been using the Shelli UNI and it has been working great. They might have other types as well…
These can do Dry Contact, Voltage Meter and many other things. The only “issue” is that even though they are made to be water proof, they don’t have a box.
Are they controllable from Hubitat? Many wifi devices lack Hubitat control.
There are built-in Shelly drivers. With local control.
Sebastian, how did you control the Shelly Uni from Hubitat?
Zooz's Zen 16 (and similar Zen 17) are both great relay choices for garage doors - the Zen 16 has been out longer, so it has a lot more GDO-related support, apps, & user-stories, but most of that info applies to the newer Z17 too.
I myself use a Zen 17 with 2 wired reed sensors (one each for full-open and full-closed) for my single-door detached garage up here in MN - it's been an awesome and wholly reliable setup.
Thanks for the mention, @Sebastien . Here's a post with installation instructions for those Shelly drivers, since it is sort of unique (though still easy thanks to HPM): Vote for Shelly UNI - #16 by tomw
Is there an easy way to tell if your garage door has the Security+ stuff?
For the Chamberlain MyQ openers, a yellow learn button indicates Security+ 2.0. But the complexity of wiring a contact to the opener is less about that than it is about having any sort of "smart" wall switch.
Take a look at what's involved at the wall switch. If it is simply a momentary contact normally open push button and no other electronics, display, or PCB, then your wiring task becomes easier - just a dry contact relay connected in parallel to where the wall switch wires connected to the opener (or anywhere along the way).
If you look at the wall switch guts and see a PCB, display, etc., you can still emulate pushing its button with a dry contact relay, but you'll need to get inside of it and solder wires to the physical button inside rather than simply connect at the opener. Or do so with a different wall switch or remote that you connect wires to yourself, or buy one already hacked ($19 shipped from Garadget).
What’s the color of the program button? If it is yellow, it is Security+ 2.0 (rolling code + encryption)
If it is purple or red, it is Security+ (rolling code).
Yeah, that's probably the best solution for me... have 2 garage door opener wall switches and they're pretty old, so I'm pretty sure they're dumb. I was just trying to figure out how to get into the boxes to see the wiring... have to look again later when I'm not frustrated and likely to break things.
Yep, red. They're old and not fancy.
With the Security+ (not 2.0) you can just short across terminals on the openers themselves, right? Not sure how I'd run power over by the buttons, but I could put a single Zen17 halfway between the openers and run wires to them, right?
I would say I don't think so, but I don't have a Security+ (not 2.0) opener to say for sure. I think what I said about looking at how fancy the wall switch is will give you the answer. If there is more communication going on the two wires connected at the opener than circuit open/closed, then you probably need to connect at a remote or wall switch physical pushbutton.
You don't necessarily need to have the connection/relay at the wall switch. I have my added wall switch at the opener (my relay is in my wiring closet .. I already had the wire pair run). See Local Control Options for MyQ Garage Door Openers - #61 by HAL9000. Or you can add another remote for your relay, and then you can put that anywhere in your house.
Just mount the Zen17 near the opener. You have power there, right? You would just take the wires from the button and move them to the Zen, and then a new short section of wire to the opener from the Zen.
I bought one of these to give me USB outlets to run the Zen and a bonus of surge protection, but anything with a USB outlet like that would likely work to power the Zen.
That should work, yes - easy to validate with some needle-nose pliers or a short piece of wire (you won't damage the GDO by testing for teh short this way).
Assuming the short trick works, then you can put the Z17 wherever it's most convenient. I used two 3-port Wago lever nuts to make the connection... 1st port for (existing) red wire from wall switch, 2nd port for (new) red wire to Z17 relay, and 3rd port for (new) red pigtail to the GDO itself. Repeat for the white wires. I preferred this approach to minimize the number of wires going to the actual GDO unit, since the connections on mine aren't super friendly to multiple wires.
ETA - I used 18-2 thermostat wire for all of my "new" wiring - it's cheap, easy to get anywhere, and it's a bit burlier than bell wire, but still very easy to work with.
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