Me too. I already had all the leak sensors set up for awhile but have been dragging my feet on the shut off due to have to change the plumbing. I ordered the shut-off and will change out the old gate valve in the next couple of weeks.
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I was about to pull the trigger on a bath remodel, that would have included replacing the rest of the original cast drain pipes, then COVID hit and I'm on furlough. Provided funds are sufficient for the remodel whenever I get back to work This will be part of it.
Hi all. Never would have thought of doing this in the past, but we had a badly connected kit tap pop off a few weeks ago. Luckily we were in the house but it could have been pretty catastrophic.
I purchased a handful of these...
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07XXVFMXW/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_CZVwFbE6FSF88
... on a whim from amazon for a fiver. Intention was to connect to a nodemcu, but I'm not 100% on if they're the best format.
Any recommendations on the best way to physically install? Or what to pick up instead (not buying dedicated zigbee etc, thanks).
Also looking for a recommendation for a shut off valve I can hook up to the AC supply (preferably) or low voltage. Again, nothing expensive / zwave etc as I'll handle operation 'manually' by having HE flick a relay somewhere.
UK based if that's relevant. TIA! =P
If I had those sensors I would probably hook them up to a ESP2866 or similar and use the Arduino drivers that @ogiewon maintains? Or I think that’s who maintains them.
For the shut off valve I would look for something like this https://www.amazon.co.uk/BACOENG-AC220V-Brass-Electric-Solenoid/dp/B01054IGXI/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=solenoid+valve&qid=1600114169&sprefix=solinoi&sr=8-3
In general the solenoid valves are not meant for continuous energized use. Plus I would be wary of chinese brass being drinking water safe.
Here's an esp8266 based unit the you attach you your own valve.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Control-Controler-Compatible-Assistant-Automatic/dp/B089VSXBJ1
If you really want diy here's one you can add your own controller.
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I really just picked the first valve I found. Ideally it would be a NC valve and you could power it with any zigbee or zwave outlet
Cheers all. Just a thought - I'd have thought that since the valve is going to spend the majority of its life open, I'd use a NO as opposed to NC?
Unless the solenoid type valve specifies continuous use, the coil will burn out after after a period of time, like 1 hour continuous use, either open or closed. If you choose this type read the description very closely.
That's why I suggested the other type as the motor is only energized during the transition open/close. Plus you can use with higher quality valves.
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Thanks for that. Definitely something to consider. This project is a little down the list at the moment, so I'll revisit it later =)
You do not want to put a solenoid valve on your water main. Could work on a single outlet such as water heater. The reason is that solenoid valves close very fast and stop the water flow immediatelly, which creates too much of a water hammer. You want to put a motorized valve that closes gradually.
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Sharkbite has a very bad reputation among plumbers. If anything do not put it inside a wall where it cannot be seen.
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I'm paranoid about water leaks and have a bunch of leak sensors and a motor operated valve (watercop). We turn the valve off when we leave the house. We get notified of valve operation or water sensors by Pushover notification.
I'm thinking of turning off the valve overnight programmatically, but have to figure out how to reprogram the water softener, which regens at 2AM.
This summer I'd like to build a system to water the hanging baskets, especially when we're not home. It would turn on the water, turn on a (sprinkler?) valve to water the baskets, and then turn off the water. I'd been wanting to do this for a while, but Hubitat will make this do-able.
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I had so far only one situation where one of the leak sensors detected an event under one of the bathroom sinks. It was a small one which could have been run for a long time undetected causing mold and rot. Initially my set up was only able to send voice and SMS messages. However, after this small success I was encouraged to carry on installing a whole of the house valve and additional sensors. Dome valve is working well but I decided to replace the clamp attaching to the pipe with a home made one since I was not confident with the original one. Now l, am researching to monitor the pressure and the flow to get something similar to these commercial systems but not being dependent of any clouds/subscription and so on ( privacy too). Another thing that I’ve done was to add some hue lights ( flashing blue) along with a siren an instruct the Rain Machine when the the main valve is closing to discharge some of the water to further reduce the remaining water of the system. Really worthwhile to have control over your water if something is going wrong.
Stupid question; I have what looks like an ordinary switch in a 4" box connecting to a subpanel with 220 run to it for my well pump, presumably to shut the pump off (both actually look to connect to a relay below the subpanel). After the small pressure tank there, I have a gas water heater tank. Could I replace that switch with a z-wave controlled one to shut the well pump off if a leak was detected? Yes, there is still 60 gallons of water between the hot water tank and pressure tank, but it's at least a worst case scenario limit. If it was a cold water leak, no more than 15 gallons probably, hot water leak would be worse but most likely not worse than 40-50. Not ideal but maybe an inexpensive starting point?
It'd have to be a pretty heavy duty switch.
The existing switch is just tapped into a regular 110 circuit from my basement lights. It appears to connect to a relay that disconnects the well pump, so really any z-wave wall switch would work.
Little late but here's how I put mine in. Those are male adapters. They go right into the valve.
Also Sharkbites don't work with PVC. They DO work with CPVC.
I mounted my valve to copper pipe and then used copper to pvc adapters to insert the assembly into my pvc feed line. Works great!
I have one of these for my well
https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Security-controller-electricity-consumption/dp/B00MBIRF5W/
My well is only on a 20A breaker.
I also have a Zigbee switch that controls my water softener and powered vent gas water heater. Also have a Dome valve actuator. If water is detected all are turned off automatically.
Only downside is I have some many sensors either they get set off while cleaning or the dog licks them. I did have one small leak on the dishwasher and it worked as intended.
I normally turn off the well, valve, water heater, and softener when leaving the house for more than a day. Since I have a dashboard for this things I can leave the dishwasher on when I leave then turn all the water off after a few hours. Then when I am on the way home I can turn it on and have hot water by the time I get back.
