I've had no trouble with mine, that wasn't mechanical. I submitted an RMA, Quickset sent me a new one and all is good. It works the same on HE as it did with ST.
We don't actually know that.. it's just a consistent refrain when ST and HE are compared. Given that there is only one chip manufacturer and that now they "own" both Zigbee and ZWave, their future solutions may be more powerful. But everyone is using chips already manufactured, the Series 500 dominantly. Therefore the power output was hard coded years ago. The ONLY variability is the antenna. and ST and HE use PCB antennas. It's difficult to find a scenario where the various Hub manufacturers can gain an advantage strictly on signal strength.
Ok, so let's pretend that the signal generated within the ST plastic case and the HE plastic case are close enough to identical to allow us to look past the chip. Is there anything else in the environment that can adversely affect the signal? Well of course there is 
Kind of a given, actually. The Hubitat case is quite a bit smaller than ST and the antennas (in the C-5's) are glued to the top, inside surface. Are you deploying your Hubitat "face up" or "face down" for cooling? Face down would put the antenna's closest to whatever your mounting surface is... a wood shelf? Then it's going to attenuate a fraction more signal due to proximity. And so on.. thousands of minuscule elements in each of our environments that make the physical Hub placement better or worse.
Then comes the order of integration. When ST was deployed, did you Join a whole house full of devices in the same period as with Hubitat? The probability of the mesh formation being different is quite high, actually.
A Z-thing mesh tries to build the largest physical "bubble" possible. It wants your edge devices to be primary repeaters if at all possible. Which means the bulk of your devices are using a repeater that is further away from the hub.
ZWave has a 4 repeater limit and therefore the most distant/edge devices are more likely to be repeaters. So that lock?? There maybe a closer ZWave device that can repeat, but it might not be used as such. The mesh MAY hop right over the device you imagine is the repeater and use one further away. Most all modern devices support beaming and a Lock is the specific device beaming was invented for,
I'm in no way reducing the impact you are experiencing. It's also kind of a given that a device that was on ST worked well there... otherwise you'd have returned it.
But ST's mesh and Hubitat's mesh are likely to be different ESPECIALLY during migration.
As has been stated, locks sleep. They are battery devices and therefore must sleep and they sleep deeply and quickly. Meaning their awake time is smaller than say a battery door sensor. It's intentional, designed into Locks by the manufacturers. Beaming is the solution invented for Locks as I stated above. Lock manufacturers really don't want you to come home to a dead battery. They go the extra distance to make the batteries last. Which increases the potential for completely missing communications, especially without a nearby beaming device.
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Thank you @csteele for this extensive and clarifying explanation. I heard about most of the facts you are referring to regarding how a mesh extends, evolves and adjusts itself, which makes my case worse, actually! 
This suggestion solved all of my problems.
I have three of these locks and they have been working fine for months. But now, one of them will not respond to commands (although I do get notifications when it is opened/closed). It looks like it lost the zwaveSecurePairingComplete=true setting, it is on the other two locks. Any way to regain this without removing and adding the lock? I have a whole bunch of rules that use it, and I really do not want to deal with resetting each one, if I can avoid it.
please post a screen shot of all the driver states, settings and data.
anything unusual in the past live logs?
you could try a restore from a previous backup, if that doesn't sort it, you'll have to remove and rejoin the lock.
You could add a virtual lock device as a place holder in all your rules before removing the actual device if you end up needing to re include the lock.
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Truth is I am not sure when it stopped working. Have been distracted with other stuff, and with the house full of people all the time, I had not been paying much attention to the locks! So I am not sure how far back I would have to go. It sounds like excluding/including may be the best. It won't kill me to have to re-tweak all the things that use it. It's not like I have places to go! Adding a virtual lock would work nicely, I had not thought about it.
Thanks for the help.
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As Mike indicated, just make sure you remove the lock from any rules/apps before excluding it. Save yourself from trouble down the road. (temporarily replace it with a virtual lock as a placeholder).
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It was a hassle moving everything around, but exclude/include did fix the problem, and the lock is working correctly again.
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I've installed seven Kwikset z-wave locks now. Five 910's and two 914's. In every instance, I had difficulty getting the locks to work. Here is a recipe I've come up with that seems to work most of the time.
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Perform a factory reset on the lock. Take the batteries out, hold down the program button and reinsert the batteries, keep the program button held down for approximately 30 seconds until the led flashes red. Release the button and wait until the led flashes green.
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Calibrate the lock. With the lock in locked position, take out the batteries, push and hold the lock button, reinsert the batteries and continue holding the lock button until the deadbolt retracts halfway.
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Manually set at least one lock code. Contrary to Kwikset's instructions, you must program at least one lock code in manually (you can delete it later). Press the program button, enter the code on the keypad, and press the lock button. If successful the keypad will flash.
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Pair the lock to the hub. Put your hub in inclusion mode and press the "A" button on the lock.
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Once paired, check for functionality. Chances are it will not be fully functional. But if it is, consider yourself fortunate.
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If the lock is not fully functional, perform a z-wave network repair cycle. This usually takes 30 minutes to an hour on my network.
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After the z-wave network repair is complete, exclude the lock from the network. Put the hub into exclude mode and press the "A" button on the lock. After the exclusion is successful, perform a second exclusion on the lock.
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Perform a network inclusion on the lock. Hub in inclusion mode, then press "A" button.
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Once the inclusion process is complete, check for functionality. Much more likely to be functional now. If not, repeat entire process.
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First off thanks to all on this thread over the years who have helped me add my 910 to Hubitat. It was the last device I was unable to add since making the swap from Wink this year. I never had added this device to my Hubitat yet excluding then including it worked. IDK maybe at some point I did add it but never saw it worked. Nonethe less it worked.
The Z-Wave range most certainly the primary issue with this lock. I can now unlock and lock from the app. But I had to mount my Hubitat up high to top of my mantle so its now line of sight to the door otherwise if its just behind one couch with a bunch of other small network devices nothing works at all. Alexa even can unlock and lock the door but she keeps saying “something went wrong” after she is able to actually successfully do so. Anyone know how to stop this? I notice its common with any “generic z-wave devices” I have a GE dimmer that she does the same with even though she can turn the lights on and off and dim successfully.
I am having lots of issues getting this lock to work with Hubitat. It worked fine with ST. If I move the Hubitat within 10-20 feet of the lock everything works fine but further than that it stops working. So I purchased a range extender (actually two) - (1) Aeotec Range Extender 7 ZW189 & (2) EVALogik Smart Plug ZW39. I placed the Aeotec in the same room as the lock and the EVALogik half way between the HUB and the Aeotec. Z-Wave Topology show that the HUB is meshed with both of the repeaters. Z-Wave Topology shows the lock and the Aeotec are meshed. At this point I am very confused. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
I am new to hubitat and came here looking for help with this lock. For those of you with usability issues with this lock, installing "reliable locks" app using package manager and mapping your door lock with the app solves the reliability issues entirely:
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Hello all,
I'm unsure if this is the right place but since you all helped me a while ago pair this lock I figured I would ask.
My Kwickset 910 no longer works that great both wireless and mechanically so I am considering replacing.
Is there a good thread that discusses a zero issues model or more compatible locks for Hubitat?
FYI, in case anyone else is trying to do this: when you first include the zwave lock, hubitat sets the type as a schlage zwave lock. It will show battery level and looks like it is correctly paired, but it will not accept commands or update status on your dashboard. Go into device settings, scroll down to "Device Information" and change Type to "Generic Z-wave Lock." I also changed the device name to "Kwikset Lock," but that shouldn't affect functionality. After saving that change, the lock started working properly on my dashboard.
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I just went through this last night. Hubitat detected it as a Garage Door opener with a Schlage lock driver. Odd for sure. I switched to the generic driver same as you and renamed it. So far so good.
