Hello - I just paired the lock but it cannot be controlled (does not show as secure). I’m wondering if this is related to the configuration? Secure mode is enable in the Hub settings.
What are the settings required for various code parameters? It looks like they are required and I’m assuming that the red shows error?
If it isn't secure paired, then you should exclude it and pair it again. Pair it as close to the Hubitat as possible (within inches away); secure z-wave requires a lot of information exchanged between the device and the z-wave controller during pairing - the closer they are, the more likely this is to happen.
Hello @rakeshg and welcome to Hubitat.
The red line doesn't mean error it's a spot for input. So you put something in there, and you click on the box to make it happen.
I happen to have a zwave plus Kwikset 888. The data fingerprint should look like this:
Some people here have had issues with Kwikset - I haven't.
A couple of pointers: (not sure if they are applicable to your situation):
Good Luck.... let us know how it's going!
If we can be of any help, let us know!
Thanks @jtmpush18 and @aaiyar. I was about 6 inches from the lock when pairing! I am moving this lock from Wink and I was able to exclude it successfully. The pairing with Hubitat didn’t fully work so I excluded the lock and it paired cleanly with Wink again 
. It is an older lock so it is not Z-Wave Plus. Would that make a difference?
@jtmpush18 “Data” section looked pretty much like yours except for the “secure pairing” parameter. I also have a Leviton switch next to the front door, so hopefully will not need a repeater.
Have to keep excluding/including as many times as necessary until the secure pairing completes successfully or it won't work from the hub (as it doesn't have the security keys exchanged properly).
I guess I will try again over the weekend. I have to move one more Kwikset lock and a GoControl garage door and will have to drag the hub around (I currently have it on a 50’ Ethernet cord and using a USB battery pack for power).
Thanks for your help
Agree with @JasonJoel. I have one more suggestion. After excluding it from Wink, make sure your Wink hub is powered off. Then exclude it again from Hubitat before pairing it to Hubitat.
When I moved to Hubitat, I had one Leviton outlet in particular that excluded from Wink, but would not pair to Hubitat (until I tried the above).
Pairing Z-Wave locks to Hubitat can be difficult depending on what repeaters you have near the lock. Z-Wave locks are battery powered but they aren't the typical sleepy Z-Wave devices that contact and motion sensors are. They are what is called a FLiRS device (frequently listening receiver slave). That's what allows them to react to controls like lock and unlock. The byproduct of this is that they have to pair and have a repeating device around them that supports them being asleep for tiny windows of time and knows how to wake them up. This repeating functionality is called beaming.
Here is where the issue occurs. On top of all of the regular Z-Wave pairing issues that can occur sometimes the strongest/closest repeaters to the lock do no support beaming. Worse still, I'm not totally sure that the HE hub negotiates pairing for FLiRS devices that need beaming repeaters correctly because even with a beaming device nearby inclusion can fail. Sometimes you get lucky and it works first time. Other times you may spend an hour including a device until it includes securely on a beaming repeater.
That is how I understand it anyway. Z-Wave locks have been extremely frustrating to many and I hope a fix will come from HE to make Z-Wave locks less prone to these issues.
In the meantime you have some options as pointed out by the others here. The best of them in my opinion is to make sure that a known beaming repeater is next to the lock and is what negotiates the pair to the mesh. This can be hard or even impossible sometimes. You can't turn off Z-Wave repeaters easily because they can destroy the very route that the lock would join on. Best of luck to you.
Well, you are close, but not quite right. Here's why...
The pairing process for secure devices can use network wide inclusion (NWI), but only if all devices in the chain are also paired securely. The zwave protocol will not allow key exchange if there are any non-secure devices in the flow of packets - for obvious key sniffing / man-in-the-middle attack security reasons.
During the pairing process, even if a repeater is beaming capable it will not allow for secure device pairing of an end device unless it is also paired securely itself. So during pairing it is actually better to not have repeaters nearby to ensure the lock doesn't try to use them during pairing - because key exchange will fail.
After pairing is complete, non-secure repeaters can repeat to/from secure devices. They just can't participate during pairing/key exchange.
That is one reason why secure devices typically have to be paired very close to the hub - it ensures other non-securely paired repeaters won't be used during pairing. The other reason is low power/whisper mode pairing some secure devices use, but that is a whole other topic.
For a repeater to work post-pairing with a lock or other flirs device, it definitely needs to support beaming - that is absolutely true.
EDIT: Removed this bit as apparently it is too contovertial of an idea and causes arguments. LOL.
@JasonJoel - this is helpful. I was pairing close to the lock and I had not included the Leviton switch. I was going to switch the pairing order (switch first, then lock) but based on your feedback, I will stick with trying to pair the locks first. 
Hi rekeshg,
Here's a copy and paste from another thread I just posted on, but if you had the lock paired to a similar service with Anti-Theft enabled prior to pairing with Hubitat, this may help your issue:
I FINALLY FIGURED THIS OUT AFTER MONTHS OF TRIALS AND SEARCHES!!! Vivint uses a widely unused and undiscussed feature of Z-Wave, Anti-Theft. In order to solve this problem, you must have t̶h̶e̶ ̶o̶r̶i̶g̶i̶n̶a̶l̶ a Vivint console (another user corrected me and any Vivint console should work to unlock a device). Fortunately, the previous homeowner left his Vivint console up on the wall for me to trip the tamper-alert siren while taking it down when the family was sleeping. I'm glad I stored it in the basement instead of throwing it away.
.
.
If you know the PIN to disarm the console, do so and start from step 4 below.
If you don't know the PIN, you're going to need to factory reset the device, start at Step 1.
Once I disabled the anti-theft on the lock, I was able to pair the lock to Hubitat without issues, 30' away from the hub, without performing any of those crazy steps like waiting 10 minutes before hitting save. If you have repeaters, the <2' rule may still be applicable to you (due to routing through repeaters with incompatible security capabilities).
Thanks Vivint for the adventure 
... Hope this helps, this seems to be a common complaint but not many mentions of the solution out there.
Good write-up. If you search this forum for Vivint there are actually a few threads that discuss this (typically buried in a specific device thread, like this one is).
There are a number of us that have/had Vivint panels to unlock devices. 
As a clarifier, you don't need the ORIGINAL panel to unlock it, just any Vivint panel will do - which your instructions allude to with the factory reset but I wanted to clarify.
Thank you, that's good to know about the original panel vs. any panel. I will update my post.
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