so i found konnected, and is is faster reaction and cheaper to run some wires in my attic and use ceiling motion censor?
the sensors are MUCH cheaper and the connectected is $150 for the 12 zone which one zone can be more than one sensor right? (number motion(zones needed) =2(1)- kitchen, 3(3) bath, 3(2) hall, 1 living, 1 dining, 1 master, 2(1) utility, 2(1) garage 1(1) office.
even if it the same cost the long term cost of batteries and time of constantly changing them would have to be better?
plus some alarm wire and couple hour in the attic.
does this make sense or did i fall off the dry dock boat?
I have a wired alarm system. Elk m1g. I put every device on its own zone. Think about having 6 heat detectors in 6 rooms all on the same zone. When the fIre alarm sounds how will you know which set the alarm off? If you have "trouble" on a zone with multiple detectors it will be difficult to troubleshoot. Extra zones on a wired alarm system are cheap. Maybe not so with your interface. Just food for thought.
I love konnected. It's the reason i managed to stay with Home automation, and it facilitated my move to hubitat (smartthings was hitting the point of being unfit for purpose, and I relied on a handful of fibaro sensors which I found behaved poorly And weren't compatible with my shiny new C7 back in summer).
It's absolutely amazing and has enabled me to complete a number of projects at a tiny, tiny fraction of the cost of going with individual zigbee etc.
Search my posts. I have a fairly varied and pretty extensive amount of usage. Diy smart heating, wired contact sensors (cheap!), honeywell 12v pir (fantastic performance and CHEAP), external 240v PIR / floodlights (again, really cheap, works ace), led lighting.... 12v sirens. Etc etc.
If wiring isn't an issue, I think it is a good way to go.
I did that with my existing alarm sensors - although I just use a $35 arduino mega + ethernet shield to mqtt instead of konnected. I would have considered using the pro-12, but the release delays made me just do it myself.
Same idea though. Very fast, and has been 100% reliable for over a year.
I changed a number of my Zigbee Iris Gen 2 motion sensors to wired sensors on Konnected instead and have been happy with them however they do seem to take an extra second or two for Hubitat to notice the motion and turn on lights now.
I have my alarm sensors connected via Konnected to my HE hub. I find that they are VERY fast to communicate with my HE.
Also consider: Hard wired connections are WAY WAY WAY more reliable than anything with Z-Wave, etc. They can't be hacked or disabled via RF. If it were reasonably possible, I would gladly throw out all of my Z-wave devices, and especially my battery operated devices, and use only hard-wired devices.
I'm about to run first fix wiring on my place (when we can travel again). That's an interesting and elegant solution, time to do some reading around. May need to rethink my sensor package and adjust wiring accordingly while the walls are open.
thanks everyone for the input, I an currently messing with my old wired alarm, it has these square sesors on the windows and i think they are shock sensors and i honestly dont know what to do with them or even figure out if they are on seperate zone
so far I have one of my zone figured out it controls at least my front door. do i need to take the resistors off the loops or leave them?
I ask because one zone i tried would never open for me just said closed and i opend nearly every door and window lol
I believe you need the resistor or there isn't enough differential to detect open/close. Hard to remember for sure, though, as I also put diodes on mine for lightning/ESD suppression.
I would have to go look and see if I ended up w/diode+resistor, or just diode.
I did use a diode on each input, but only used the arduino's built-in pulldown resistor (no extra resistors).
Been meaning to ask for a while and can't seem to get a decent answer via Google...
Using a nodemcu with ds18b20's/DHT22's, what's best practice with the 4.7k resistor which is frequently mentioned? What are the symptoms of needing one?
I have quite long runs. I've put a resistor near the sensor at the minute, but I can't tell if there's a point.
If you're replacing the original alarm system with a Konnected board I'm pretty sure Konnected says to remove the resistors however if you're integrating with the existing alarm system to just make the sensors work for both then I'm not sure.
