More on the ramping issue... Setting Parameter 16 to 1 removes all dimming capabilities of the switch, even via ZWave . The purpose of getting a dimmer for this room (the bathroom) was to be able to set a low maximum "on" level at night so we're not blinded when we turn the switch on. The only other parameter having to do with ramp rate is Parameter 6, and you can only change that between "Normal" (slow) and "Slow Dim Rate" (slower). This is a big step backwards on switch functionality and may be a deal breaker for me.
Yeah... Pretty weird that they took out the ramp rate adjustment... Unless it is hiding in an undocumented parameter (it happens).
Could change to basic zwave tool, do a parameter report, and see if there are parameters with values outside of the published range. Is kind of a guessing game though if there are.
I did run a parameter report after Parameters 9 and 10 not working and found that every one was set to 0 except for 30 and 31 (min and max dim threshold). A visit to https://products.z-wavealliance.org/products/4037/configs shows all the new parameters since Jasco has not yet updated their web site for this new switch. Unfortunately, Jasco is not Zooz or Innovelli so I have scant hopes they will address this in a firmware update (if they even make those available to users). EDIT: It looks like the newer Series 500 Enbrighten dimmer (46201) has similarly lost the ability to adjust the ramp rate. Lack of a ramp rate adjustment was why I avoided Zooz dimmers when they were on Version 1 but was able to switch to them on subsequent product revisions. If only they made a no-neutral switch... (@agnes.zooz , there is a product opportunity here!)
I would 100% expect they WILL NOT. That isn't how they roll.
Have you tried hooking in an Aeotec Bypass? I've heard reports from others that this solves blinking issues with newer GE dimmers and some LEDs.
Noted. But if we went that route, we wouldn't be able to keep our 3-way/4-way solution without a neutral and at the end of the day, it's always a "borrowed neutral" solution not an actual "no-neutral" solution (since every circuit needs a neutral). We'll keep looking for different ways to accommodate as many scenarios as possible though!
(Sidenote and not to derail the topic: I just installed my first Zooz product. One of your double switches for a fan/light combo. 2 thumbs up! The build quality was great, it joined and functioned perfectly, and I like all the options you have in the z-wave parameters. Thanks!)
The switch is listed on Amazon again, free prime shipping, but delivery is 2 to 3 weeks out:
Alright, so I installed the new no-neutral GE dimmer over the weekend. The load it is hooked up to is 8 high-end dimmable LED tubes, which had previously been dimming perfectly using a Fibaro Dimmer 2. Well, the GE no-neutral dimmer causes pulsing in the light output, at all brightness levels. I'd say the pulsing is at about 3 or 4 hertz.
So I've ordered a bypass, and I'll try that out. But if that doesn't work, I'm going back to the Fibaro and this GE is going in the garbage. The Fibaro's documentation has many more z-wave parameters and options for configuring it for different load types. Maybe GE just cheaped out on the internals of their dimmer?
That's unfortunate. GE has never been big on tons of fancey features or FW updates, but they usually get the basics right.
Adding the cost of the switch and bypass (Aeotec?) that's getting up there for one wall switch.
Yes, it is. And that's assuming it works with the bypass. Fortunately, I only have one light switch in my house that doesn't have a neutral. The rest all have neutrals.
I do hope I can get it to work with the bypass, because the rest of my switches/dimmers are GE/Jasco, and I like them all to have the same feel. And I'd like to have the status light.
However, if I can't get this GE no-neutral dimmer to work, I can fall back to my older setup, which I detailed here: Composite z-wave switch - without neutral
Well, turns out it's a piece of junk. ** Even with a bypass installed, I get pulsing at about 3-4 hz, at all brightness levels. And this is with high-end dimmable LED tubes. (I'm a stickler for high quality light, so I paid out the nose to get dimmable tubes at 3000k, with > 95% CRI.)
** Disclaimer: It might not be a piece of junk for you. Maybe it'll work with your bulbs. YMMV. But I'm going to go back to the Fibaro dimmer that worked perfectly with these LEDs.
I'm thinking GE/Jasco didn't put enough smarts into their switch. The Fibaro has options like:
- leading edge control vs. trailing edge control
- resistive load vs. resistive-inductive load vs. resistive-capacitave load
- adjustment for countries with ripple-control in the power lines
And it goes through a calibration process to find the best settings, or you can override them.
The GE switch doesn't have any of that. I think they cheaped out.
Bummer to hear. You might reach out to their support to see if you can return it or trade it for a switch you can use.
Mine arrives in a couple weeks (got it on Amazon to avoid the shipping on Jasco, and for easier return). We'll see how it goes for me - I'll just be controlling one LED bulb. Hopefully my simple setup will be successful. If not, back it goes! Not going to pay additional for a bypass. All of my other switches are GE/Jasco/Honeywell so like you I'd prefer for this one to work so it has a consistent look and feel.
But you got me worried... [eek!]
Some further research shows that the Lithonia wafer lights I am using this dimmer with are generally "smart dimmer hostile". Zooz does not support them on their ZEN22/24 (triac dimmer), either. Looks like the only decora smart dimmer I can be sure works with these is the older GE 14294 (which I will have to find on eBay), so I am going to have to try and get a neutral in this box. I have similar lights in another room on a GE 14295 (which works fine), but apparently it was just dumb luck on my part.
I installed this Enbrighten Z-wave dimmer on one can downlight that is over the kitchen sink. For some reason, this is the only fixture in the house that does not have a neutral.
Even at the 1% minimum dimming level allowed by the dimmer, the LED bulb still would not turn off and was dimly lit.
I guess I could try different LED bulbs, but I gave up and removed the dimmer and will be returning it. Oh well, it was a good try.
So I had issues with the built in LED in my new laundry room exhaust fan and the old Enbrighten ZW+ dimmer (technically the Honeywell one), where the light was pulsing. On a whim, I grabbed a new no neutral dimmer for the room, and it's working great! No flickering at 1% or 100%, and the light properly turns off!
Very happy about this but...what driver are people using for this? The built in GE Enbrighten Dimmer seemed to work, and @JasonJoel's seems to be working great (the default brightness levels etc all seem to be working at first glance). Assume that's what most are using?
Update: The light IS buzzing...but working. Acceptable until the wife disagrees, as far as I'm concerned. Excited to grab a couple more (maybe Black Friday?) for a couple switches in my basement I thought I'd have to run neutrals to.
Side note: I have a neutral in this box, hence my being able to use the previous gen dimmer, but the pulsing was bad.