Jasco Z-wave wall dimmer switch that does NOT need a neutral wire

I am probably going to reorder it from Jasco, but I am trying to find a $10.01 item I can buy to qualify for free shipping :grin:

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Same concern...HATE paying for shipping. (Thanks for making me like that, Amazon.)

I may just order two, though I wanted to try one first before committing.

I'd like to use one of these in a 3-way setup where I have a neutral in one location but No neutral in the other. Can I use this with a GE/Jasco add-on switch in the neutral location or do I need 2 of these for this application?

The older GE/Jasco add-on switches required a neutral, so if you can put it in that location with no neutral and the dimmer in the location that has one, that might work.

Hopefully, someone who knows this better than I will chime in to confirm...

Another option, if you have a Lutro Bridge Pro, wold be to use a Lutron dimmer in one location (doesn’t require a neutral) and a remote in the other(s). I have that setup and it works great!

Also, welcome to the community!

I agree, you'd think that would work, but something I've never tried.

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Sebastien,
I'm not sure I follow. In my current 3-way setup, I have one box with no neutral wire available. That is where I would install this new switch that doesn't require a neutral. The other box that does have a neutral, I'm wondering if I can use an add-on box that requires a neutral OR a regular smart switch that requires a neutral OR another new switch that doesn't require a neutral?

I'm just not clear what options I have to work with. I'm not trying to obtuse I'm just trying to weigh my options.

Thank you Sebastien and danabw for your responses. I appreciate any help I can get.

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If it's a 3-way setup, then you need one "normal" switch (e.g., the no-neutral switch you just received) and one "add-on" switch designed for use in a 3-way w/a smart switch. You have to use a "smart" add-on switch, putting a normal switch in the box requiring the neutral won't work. The no-neutral page on Jasco site says:

  • Multi-switch compatible – The smart device operates perfectly on its own or seamlessly integrates into multi-switch setups when paired with up to four compatible add-on switches (model 46199).

This is the GE 46199:

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Enbrighten-SimpleWire-SmartThings-46199/dp/B07RQ8K25S/ref=sr_1_1?crid=26F0J7LKG25W0&dchild=1&keywords=ge+add+on+switch+z-wave&qid=1614545576&sprefix=ge+add%2Caps%2C237&sr=8-1

Make sense?

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Yes, that makes sense. Thank you danabw. I have one of those in the toggle configuration but it works the same way:

GE 46200
(not able to include link)

Now, I just have to wait for it to arrive from jasco. amazon was all out. :frowning:

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My switch from Amazon just arrived today! Excited to install this.

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You mean my switch from Amazon...you stole the last one from me! :wink:

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Even though I ordered one from Amazon, it appears to have shipped direct from Jasco. It should be here tomorrow ro replace a no neutral switch perpetrated during a bathroom reno by previous owners. It was either this or crawl through blown insulation to the edge of the attic under a pitched roof to redo the wiring.

Egads...

So mine did arrive today and I installed it. I have 2 observations:

  1. I am using mine on 4 Lithonia Lighting wafer LED lights which draw around 36 watts combined. When the dimmer ramps up and ramps down, the lights exhibit a strobing effect which is bad for WAF (as well as my own eyesight).
  2. In order to correct Item 1, I set out to eliminate the ramp effect (which I actually do on all dimmers in the house due to family complaints). On the older GE Z-Wave Plus dimmers, this can be accomplished by setting Parameter 9 to 99 and Parameter 10 to 1. On this new model switch (52252), Parameters 9 and 10 have been eliminated (as well as their counterparts 7 and 8. There is now a single Parameter 16 which puts the dimmer in "switch mode" if you set it to 1.

Still beats crawling through the blown insulation in the attic.

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Excellent info - thanks!

Absolutely.

More on the ramping issue... Setting Parameter 16 to 1 removes all dimming capabilities of the switch, even via ZWave :frowning_face:. The purpose of getting a dimmer for this room (the bathroom) was to be able to set a low maximum "on" level at night so we're not blinded when we turn the switch on. The only other parameter having to do with ramp rate is Parameter 6, and you can only change that between "Normal" (slow) and "Slow Dim Rate" (slower). This is a big step backwards on switch functionality and may be a deal breaker for me.

Yeah... Pretty weird that they took out the ramp rate adjustment... Unless it is hiding in an undocumented parameter (it happens).

Could change to basic zwave tool, do a parameter report, and see if there are parameters with values outside of the published range. Is kind of a guessing game though if there are.

I did run a parameter report after Parameters 9 and 10 not working and found that every one was set to 0 except for 30 and 31 (min and max dim threshold). A visit to https://products.z-wavealliance.org/products/4037/configs shows all the new parameters since Jasco has not yet updated their web site for this new switch. Unfortunately, Jasco is not Zooz or Innovelli so I have scant hopes they will address this in a firmware update (if they even make those available to users). EDIT: It looks like the newer Series 500 Enbrighten dimmer (46201) has similarly lost the ability to adjust the ramp rate. Lack of a ramp rate adjustment was why I avoided Zooz dimmers when they were on Version 1 but was able to switch to them on subsequent product revisions. If only they made a no-neutral switch... (@agnes.zooz , there is a product opportunity here!)

I would 100% expect they WILL NOT. That isn't how they roll.

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Have you tried hooking in an Aeotec Bypass? I've heard reports from others that this solves blinking issues with newer GE dimmers and some LEDs.

Noted. But if we went that route, we wouldn't be able to keep our 3-way/4-way solution without a neutral and at the end of the day, it's always a "borrowed neutral" solution not an actual "no-neutral" solution (since every circuit needs a neutral). We'll keep looking for different ways to accommodate as many scenarios as possible though!

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