Hi fellow nerds.
I'm searching for a device that can detect if there is a current running in a wire, or what it's called!!
More specific I have a Projector and I would like Hubitat to know if it is on or off. If On I don't want the ventilation to start and I don't want the motion sensor to trigger all the lights.
Is there any device that can do that?
Please please please... 
Kasper
Sure, just about any Zigbee Smart Outlet includes power/energy monitoring. I personally use the old Iris v2 3210-L smart outlets. They work great with Hubitat, are decent Zigbee mesh repeaters, and report power usage.
[Aeon Home Energy Monitor](Aeotec by Aeon Labs ZW095 ZW095-A Home Energy Meter Gen5, Small, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XD8WZX6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_oFoLDb3PWF7W5) if for some reason you cannot just use a smart outlet with power monitoring a @ogiewon is suggesting. But you will have to split the power cable so one of the clamps goes around the hot wire, or install (or have it installed at the panel if the projector is on an isolated breaker. The other clamp, you either don’t use, or use it to monitor something else.
I’ll have one for sale, but not until my Sense HEM has discovered my washer and dryer and is reliably reporting their power state.
The Projector is directly connected to power without a plug or what it's called.
The Areon Home energy monitor is way to expencive for me. 95$
I can't shut the projector off with a smart outlet because it has to cool down before going into standby mode.
Are u saying that I can take the energy reading off a smart outlet and if it's over a certain value I can have that trigger something??
Yes. Both solutions would allow that
Yes, that is exactly correct!
Nice.
Any suggestions to a small/cheap/zigbee one???
That we can get here in Europe!!!
Do not try the Peanut Plug, as that one does not report power usage correctly without a firmware update to the smart plug (not easy to do without a Securifi hub.)
Many users are pleased with the SmartThings outlets. As I mentioned, I am partial to the Iris 3210-L outlets which can be found on ebay for a decent price.
EDIT: Removed IKEA outlets as they do not report power usage.
Why is it hard wired? Is it 220~240v ?
Can the Ikea outlets monitor energy?? I have a few of them but I have never seen them beeing able to do that.
Good point!!! I am not sure about the IKEA outlets...
Edited my earlier post to avoid any confusion.
They don’t
That’s a different story then. Finding 230v outlets in North America that do Energy Monitoring is difficult. Look at either the Sinope RM3250ZB electrical load controller, or you are back to a HEM.
Are you in Canada? I noticed you put your Dollar sign after the number. Québécois?
No I'm Danish, not the pastery....
Would this work for you?
Are you in Denmark or the USA? If you’re living in Denmark, then finding a 230v outlet that monitors power should be easy. If you’re in the US, then the Fibaro Switch 2, the Aeotech nano switch or the Qubino mention above will also do the trick.
Was going to suggest this. @Kasper per regs your still have to have some point to fuse down the device? So I'm assuming your using a unstitched Fused connection unit? Thats is what the 1 gang box is? You can then install this inside the box on the Fused side.
You can't just tap a device straight onto the mains.
@SmartHomePrimer I'm in Denmark Europe. Ill have a look at outlets cause I didn't know that u could take the energy reading out of them to trigger something.
@BorrisTheCat. My English is in many situations suffisient but I struggle when it comes to tecnical tearms. I dont undersatnd this sentence:
per regs your still have to have some point to fuse down the device? So I'm assuming your using a unstitched Fused connection unit?
There is no room inside the box on the wall. There is a zigbee on off controller for the turbine-looking ventilation thing.. And it was a pain to fit it and mingle with alot of wires..
In Europe the Electrical regulations (rules you must abide by) say that each device must have a local point of isolation (way to turn it on and off). If it's connected to power usually a 20 AMP radial (most likely in Europe) or 32 AMP ring main (most likely in England) you also need a way to protect the device, this is why they come with a plug (the plug comes with a fuse in) which brings down the current protection to 2-3 AMPs in your case for the projector. If you don't want a plug because it's ugly, then the other option is a connection plate with a built in fuse, this does the same thing as a plug but is permanent and neater.
Download the Hubitat app
