Iris Smart Button

I suspected you'd say that :slight_smile: However, ST didn't have that issue when it had the bulbs and on several occasions, I re-paired the Iris FOB for different reasons (that I chose) and always found it. Just being as factual / helpful (hopefully) as possible

I could try csteele's suggestion tomorrow as that seems like a fairly simple thing to try. I'd always report the outcome of course

RF is a mystery, you can't see it, it bounces and gets absorbed in ways that we can't see nor make much sense of.

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Mike, do you have any suggestions for me to try? Thanks

very true

@csteele suggestion is a good one, or I would unscrew the bulbs if possible, once the device is paired it will probably be fine.

Sounds like we've got a plan A and B here. Will try and confirm. Thanks all!

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I used to own an Iris system (horrible hub, but great hardware) so I have a lot of their older and newer devices. Almost all of their newer devices work great, but I’ve found they can be tricky to pair. Some work right away while others take a few tries. Mostly because their reset methods very greatly. Even the same product model but a different batch can have a very different reset procedure than what you can find in their support information.

For these key fobs the combination of getting the battery lined up correctly with the twist tab locked into place, all while trying to pair the device can be a recipe for failure. Also some of these fobs also reset by holding a button down while inserting the battery, and then sometimes I've had to also press a button 8 times, but sometimes not.

So what I’ve found works best is to start a discovery on the hub, then get the battery as close to lined up as possible, then hold down a button. Next is the super fun and seamingly cryptic twisting of the tab until it finally closes and the unit is together so the battery is making full contact and powering the device.

This next step is key...

Don't try to lock the battery tab by twisting it in place yet! This can sometimes backfire and make the whole thing come apart possibly interrupting the paring process. So just hold it together as tightly as you can during the entire pairing.

With the battery now in place you may or may not see the device itself light up, just make sure you keep the battery firmly held together so it doesn't come loose. Oh and did I mention doing all this while holding down one of the buttons for a few seconds? :wink: You can release the button after a couple of seconds.

I've had the hub find the device at this point before, without having to press another button 8 times. But if it hasn't yet, you can try the 8 button presses and wait patiently for it to get discovered. Once it's found and the pairing is complete, you can twist the battery tab to lock itself in place.

I just did this procedure with two devices (4 times total) with an older 4 button fob and a newer 4 button fob.

1st try failed. I believe it was because I ether didn't hold a button down while I was struggling to align the battery tab to fall into place, or because I lost my grip and the battery loosened contact during the pairing process so it didn't complete the pairing process. It showed up as an unknown device. So I removed it and tried again. All further attempts to pair the devices worked just fine. (Maybe I needed a practice round for the first try, lol)

Let us know if you are able to get it working!

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Hi coreylista! I appreciate your greatly detailed reply :slight_smile: I'll try some of the monkey mania that worked for you. As you may have read, I've already done the 8 button pushes after 10 seconds of no battery. Aside from that, keep in mind though, that even though ST doesn't have the Hue lights anymore, the fact that it acknowledges the FOB in device discovery, still serves to prove the FOB is in it's pairing state.

So far, plans A and B (mentioned above) have failed to work. I cut the power to all the HUE lighting (it's the only type of Zigbee lighting I have). I also reset the Hubitat hub. Although one thing I haven't tried yet, is pulling power and batteries from the ST hub. Could possibly be a conflict there.

I've had excellent experience with the Iris devices overall and their response times are fast. This is why they continue to be a preferred choice. I've also had probably every HA hub of the last 4 years, so you see it all - and what's system-specific vs device specific and with that, it's a rare day when I get to the point of needed to make a forum post :slight_smile:

Will try what you mentioned, in case Hubitat is just pickier to pair with this device and also pull power from ST to rule out any interference or conflict. Back soon...

I completely pulled ST out of the loop (power wise) and killed power to the HUE hub and all the Zigbee bulbs. This is not a Zigbee router issue at this point, or the FOB would have shown up. Additionally, I tried all the suggestions from coreylista (thanks for those) and still nothing. It's no longer worth any further time. I paired the FOB back to ST and it's working fine, except that it's not useful since I was using it prior to control some of the bulbs, but I had moved those to Hubitat. It's not a vital device thankfully, but obviously would be better to have it in use.

I'm going out on a limb here ... thinking in about 6 weeks you'll try it again and it will work, with no explanation. :smiley:

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Might be just time enough to submit a fix :wink: :stuck_out_tongue:

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Can you share the code you used?

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