@agnes.zooz two zooz? What if I wire one zooz but turn off the relay. Will the other dumb switch affect scenes as well like the zooz or turn off the power to the lights?
If you disable the relay on the Zooz switch, the connected 3-way switch will not cut power off to the bulbs (it will no longer control the load in the electrical sense). We're checking if changing the status of the connected 3-way will prompt the Zooz switch to send a status update to the hub even if relay is disabled. I'll update you hear once I get the final answer.
GE switch + GE add-on switch is how I did all of mine. I liek that solution as for 3-way DIMMERs you still have full dimming capability on all paddles. It also provides the exact same tactile feel on all switches (I don't like some switces to feel one way, and others another).
Thx, do you understand what I’m trying to do? @agnes.zooz
My opinion exactly.
It would help in recommending switches if you'd put some parameters around it. Do you have neutral in one or both boxes? Do you require dimming at both switch locations, or just one? Do you want paddle/toggle, or don't care? If you want dimming at both locations, is it worth an extra $19 to have it (and get switch that matches the primary too)? Do you need to match a color (e.g. light almond) or is white alright with you?
Exactly what I want, but smart bulbs compatible
This was not my experience with the ZEN27: until the most recent firmware, remote switches toggled the load even with the relay/local control disabled in the ZEN27. The most recent update still causes a brief cut in power before apparently restoring power. Better, but not ideal.
I think switches that support add-ons might be able to work around this (presumably the add-on would just cause the real switch to just report the same button events as if performed locally). But as far as i can tell, the ZEN27 doesn't support those.
Thank you. Also how many scenes can you set. Up/down hold up/down, double press both? So 6?
How, “brief” is the power cut?
Sorry about that, I missed the SMART BULB part. Obviously the GE won't work for what you are doing there.
I should have read more carefully!
The connected 3-way switch shouldn't be cutting power to the load with the relay disabled so we'll test it closely to see what may be causing the behavior you're seeing.
@frmWink2Hubitat Since you can only connect on/off switches to Zooz dimmers, you won't be able to dim the smart lights using the connected mechanical on/off switch. What we're checking now is if the signal sent from the on/off switch will cause the Zooz switch with disabled relay to still send a status change update to the hub which is how you would be able to control the smart bulb from the connected 3-way switch.
As for using scene control for that, you wouldn't be able to trigger scenes directly from a connected 3-way switch, since it's just a mechanical switch. All it's able to do is open and close a circuit - that's all we've got to work with here!
I hope to have some more updates about this shortly.
I ment scenes on te actual zooz. I want to make a dog potty schedule automation. Click once if she peed, 2x for poop etc. I figured I can set each one as a different notification in hubitat. But for example, is triple click an option?
Yes, you can always program scenes to be triggered from the Zooz switch. Triple click is an option though it is also reserved for exclusion so if you're trying to exclude something at the same time as the triple click scene is enabled, the switch may be accidentally excluded (chances of that actually happening are, as you can imagine, very slim).
The ZEN26 / ZEN27 models rely on current readings on the circuit to establish the state of the other switch and behave accordingly so they're not ideal for this scenario where the relay is disabled and they can't rely on normal circuit behavior with the load being turned on or off. So once a relay is disabled, you wouldn't be able to turn the smart bulbs on from the connected on/off switch on the other side of the 3-way.
But the ZEN21 / ZEN22 models use a different 3-way communication method and the regular on/off switch in the other box will act as additional control for the smart bulbs with relay disabled on the Zooz master switch.
I'm still confused. How does the ZEN21/22 know whether a flick of the remote switch is the same as me pressing the up paddle or the down paddle on the "real" switch? (That's why I was thinking it might be nice if they could know that this came from a remote switch and send a different scene/key/button event, so I could act accordingly: in my case, toggle the smart bulbs. With the realy disabled, at the local switch I'd just tap up or down depending on whether I wanted to turn them on or off, so I must be missing something here about how the ZEN21/22 work in this configuration.)
Thanks for checking into that, though!
That's how they're programmed and because of the way ZEN26/ZEN27 interact with regular switches in a 3-way, we cannot program them the same way as the ZEN21/ZEN22.
So what happens if you use the zen 27 in a 3 way
That part I understand, but I what I still don't is how the ZEN21/22 do behave. It sounds like a flick of a remote "dumb" switch won't toggle the load of the Zooz if local control is disabled, but does it do anything at all? If so, how does it "know" what to do (e.g., which Z-Wave central scene event does it generate)?
If relay is disabled, the mechanical 3-way switch connected to the ZEN27 will not be able to control the smart bulbs since it will not act as additional control of the ZEN27 dimmer. If you wanted to have additional control of the smart bulbs from the second location you would need to rewire the ZEN27 as a master single pole switch and add another smart switch in that other location (just powering it up and programming it to control the bulb as well).
The mechanical switch connected to the ZEN21/ZEN22 wouldn't trigger scenes, it would just change the status of the switch which would then be reported to the hub. So the automation would have to be programmed in the logic of if switch is on, the bulb is on, if switch is off, the bulb is off, and vice versa (so essentially like mirroring works on SmartThings). You still couldn't use the connected mechanical switch as a scene controller, sorry if that wasn't clear from my previous reply!
Thanks for the clarification! That's what I was wondering. Honestly, in "smart bulb mode" I just ignore the
switch attribute and use the button events (I don't like having to keep the dimmer in sync with the real bulbs, which are Hue Bridge bulbs and could be changed independently from the switch). I'll keep that in mind if I ever care enough to make other locations in a three-way work in a more desirable fashion.