How you wire/hook it up.
Power from the smart outlet or switch goes to the coil of the magnetic contractor. The magnetic contractor closes the contacts that will provide power to the pump. The contractor will come with instructions or you can google how to wire up a magnetic contactor.
24 volt coil to energize the Contactor:
110v coil to energize the Contactor:
You buy the one that meets your need. The smart outlet is going to turn on 110, so that would be a good option, but if you have 24v out near the pool, perhaps for Valves, then maybe you just want the Dry Contact to energize the Contactor.
You'll have to decide 
Once you pick, we can probably help with wiring.
1 Like
Good suggestion, but hard to find. Do you have a source for him to buy from?
Sorry I had bought one a few years ago for my old garage door opener, don’t use it any more. I see there is a NuTone branded version available on Amazon with exact specs and look:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WXLRF2U/ref=sspa_dk_detail_0?psc=1
1 Like
I'd be looking to do this with the 110V; don't have 24volt. It's for the pool vacuum but same idea. I could youtube the wiring but always good to ask somebody who seems to know what they are talking about!
I built a total pool controller from a RaspberryPi and a SainSmart 8 channel relay board.
The rPi energizes one of the 8 relays and it switches 24vdc. I have it all inside an outdoor rated box and Connectors to allow me to plug in the 4 components of my Pool. Heater (just one of the 8 relays as a dry contact wired straight into the Call-for-Heat lugs inside the heater.) 2 relays each for two Jandy Valve Actuators, one relay for each direction. And then the one feeding the 24v Contactor.
The Contactor is mounted in place of the Mechanical Clock Timer that drove the pump for a couple decades. This means (for me) the High Voltage is physically isolated from the low voltage. The 220vac 30 amp circuit is wired into the Contactor in exactly the same way the Mechanical switch was... each hot leg goes into one side of the Contactor and then on the opposite side, the motor wires are screwed down. These are made for this job so it's mostly a matter of screwing the big cables in securely and tightly... ready for another 20 years. 
The actuator voltage, 24vdc in my case, 110 vac in yours, goes across the side lugs. You haven't said how you expect to energize the Contactor, but it's not difficult. Just imagine the Contactor is the Light bulb and somewhere is a switch. In my case the 24vdc SainSmart relay is my switch.
It's all very Rube Goldburg in the sense of a rPi computer energizing a GPIO which drives an optocoupler to energize a 5vdc Relay which switches 24vdc to a energize a relay (Contactor) for 220vac to get a motor to spin. 
2 Likes
That's not Rube Goldberg. that's just smart electrical protection between low and high voltage. Although you might have been able to go without the optocoupler ... But I put optocouplers on almost everything, so who am I to talk?
1 Like
In my case the switch would be a lutron caseta on/off that I can control. Though possible I may go with a zwave switch that does power monitoring so I can kill the vacuum if the filter is not running. That kind of stuff.
I'll do some googling on how to "wire" it up. Though I do have a heater and a variable speed pool pump (would be easier to automate with a single speed I think). Would be pretty sweet to switch system to spa only with those jandy valves (I had to google) and control the heater as well but more than I'm willing to take on ATM.
I swear I got a barllpark for a (closed) system to do this and it was like $2k or something stupid.
Impressive what you've done
@csteele, I will test with a multi meter tomorrow but if I find that it is 220V, would this be the equivalent?
I'm not exactly sure what you are asking.. the Contactor is a big ass switch.. 30 amps. The magnetic coil that slams the Contactor home so it makes the Circuit comes in a variety of voltages.. 24vdc as I said I'm using.. 110/120vac.. or 208/240 such as you linked. The two voltages are not directly related. I'm able to switch 240vac 30 amps with 24vdc. You can have a 240vac vacuum pump motor, controlled by whatever voltage you have nearby. The mention of a Caseta switch implies 110/120vac.. which is fine, if you buy the Contactor to match.
So.. know what you're Pump motor needs, know what voltage is going to control the Contactor. They could be the same, but usually not. My Rube Goldburg thing begins with 3.2 v on the RaspberryPi and ultimately switches 240vac 30 amps. Lots of intermediate gizmos along the way, but in my case I made every choice focused on as low a voltage as would work, for safety.
You don't have to match. It happens that I have an Outdoor ZWave switch a couple of inches from this whole pool controller.. it's used to control some yard lighting. Just happens that the AC is there next to the Pool Equipment. For you, you could use that. Get the 110vac Contactor and just wire a lamp cord to it. Plug it in, the Contactor will go Clunk and jump an inch because it's not bolted down, but there you go! Now instead of plugging it into the wall like a lamp, plug it into an outdoor ZWave switch...
<-- Amazon
When you turn the ZWave switch on as if it were a light bulb, the Contactor will slam shut and power your Pump motor. Yours seems much easier than mine, since all you need is a bit of lamp cord.
<-- Amazon
1 Like
My pump is 220 but I'm actually just powering my spa jets and Polaris pool vacuum for now.. which are 110 (confirmed). So ordered the two of these and a box to mount everything in.
I'll be energizing with 110 and Lutron smart switch.
What kind of connectors and stuff do I need? Looking at those blade style connectors and not sure what those are.
Thanks for all the help! Full pool control will be later after I get through more of my other projects!
Those are "spade lugs" and for the Pump wires, you don't need them. Just use the screw downs.
For the coil, you can crimp connectors and they will just push on to the side lugs.
A kit like this can give you a lifetime supply
<-- click for Amazon
You might have a tool that has these in the handle...
... that crimp the wires into the connector.
Choice B.. just solder the 110v wires to the side Lugs.
