Hubitat for AUS/NZ Chat

Was considering that but can it be easily integrated into Hubitat to use the rules engine, say to turn on as I leave the office etc?

Anyone have any recommendations on a 3 gang zigbee light switch? Just had one of the glass faceplates fall off my NUE switch and shatter everywhere. Not real keen on another one of them since they're all starting to come apart.

I'd offer a replacement one I have in a draw, but can't imagine you want to go down that path again...

1 Like

My makegood one has worked well. But there was another report in this thread of someone else saying theirs flickered. Not sure if that was only the dimmer for them, maybe not sure.. But my single gang one works well for me. And Aus approved with no neutral required. They make a 3 gang. How sure can I be that they are good, well the other report in here makes me question to suggest them. I have a single and double hang to still be installed that I haven't got round to.

1 Like

Yeah i think i might move away from them, thanks for the offer though.

1 Like

Have a look at the Mercator Ikuu range https://www.ikuu.com.au

https://community.hubitat.com/t/mercator-ikuu/

1 Like

That would have been me. I had that happen to me on two 1-gang switches and one 4-gang switch. I returned the lot and bought Ikuu ones instead.

1 Like

Several of my Nue switches/GPO's have failed - I wouldn't touch them again. Changed to the Mercator Ikuu products.

So do the Mercator Ikuu light switches need neutral? Their website and none of the sellers really gave much info that I could see.

nope

What’s been the experience with the Clipsal Iconic Zigbee devices? Any good?

The whole range Is frightfully expensive!
$117 for a door/Window contact sensor
$135 for a motion sensor!
:scream::scream:

Further to what @sanewton72 said, yes, neither Ikuu dimmers or wall switches require neutrals, but this comes with a price that should be understood. They will always switch a little slower than a neutral-attached device. Also, they energise themselves by sending small amounts of current through the load. This is not a problem with incandescent bulbs, or many LEDs, but I have several devices (an Arlec/Verve LED Oyster light and some older LED bulbs) that will regularly flash when the switch is off.

What I suspect is happening is that the control circuit in the light is charging a capacitor from the leakage current until it hits a particular voltage level, and then trying to start the bulb. There is enough energy for a quick flash, and then the voltages collapse and the cycle starts all over again. This flashing is generally between 1-3 second intervals.

There is no fix for this problem other than using a different device.

Note that this is not an issue with the Ikuu devices since Aeotec nano dimmers do exactly the same thing with these devices.

1 Like

Looks like that needs a neutral to work, and also has the hard-wired control link protocol built in as well. Based on the price, I suspect that Clipsal are taking the piss here. A normal 4 bedroom house might have 20 GPOs or more, as well as 10 assorted light switches, so over $5000 without any sensors at all. The Ikuu stuff would be well under half that.

Any flashing I've encountered with the Aeotec Nano Dimmer I've managed to solve by:
a) swapping the dimmer to trailing edge or vice versa
b) adjusting the minimum and maximum operating levels

I take it the Ikuu don't allow changing the same settings?

The sort of flashing that I am talking about does not respond to any of those things, those are usually experienced during dimming and "on" activities. I am talking about bright rhythmical flashing when the device is supposed to be "off".

I have had the poor dimming, flickering etc during on behaviour, but that is usually treatable as you say, or by using high voltage capacitors or dummy loads (although usually I have found that these are a bit hit and miss).

Unless you have experienced something that I have not?

Ah, a dummy load or "bypass" helped in those cases.

The bypass doesn't cure all issues though, and I prefer a real neutral where ever possible.

I just had a short training course on 'Wiser' from my Schneider rep. He was fairly open about its pros and cons. Gear looks good as you'd expect.
But TBH i can't get over the sticker shock. They're asking $300 for an IR xmitter. Wow. The amazing part was that they think their gear is competitively priced!
I guess they're used to Cbus margins, and so approach the whole Wiser range from that expectation.
One immediate benefit i do see is that the zigbee switch mechs can support 10A loads, which is nice particularly for heavier loads such as Tastic-style bathroom heat lamps...except you can only fit 3 of these large mechs behind one wall plate so there goes that particular application.
I also like that you can decide how you want the button LED to operate (i.e. LED on when switch off, or LED on when switch on). I really dislike that Ikuu switches only support having the LED on when the mech is on. When the light is on, I don't need a blue LED to let me know the lights are on. What I do want, is a blue LED to help me find the switch in the dark, especially when the Ikuu buttons are capacitative so you can't 'feel' for the right one without switching everything on.

1 Like

Aeotec nano switches, both single and double are both 10a relays. The issue with the low current capacity of the Ikuu stuff is because of their big positive, no neutral retrofitting. They don't have enough grunt to do relays, so they have to kind of bootstrap a solid state switch.

The Wiser stuff is probably reasonably priced for commercial gear, but completely out of the range for domestic, which is what it is aimed at as far as I can see.

Totally agree, and would love to see Ikuu provide a firmware update or something to fix that lack of feature

1 Like