I like the look of that keypad. Have you set it up? I'm assuming you use it for security? I want to do something for security to arm/disarm the system on entering/exiting the house. I was thinking about using my wife and my mobiles for presence detection but we have other situations where we have a cleaner and mum/sister come to the house when we're not home, so not sure how to cater for them. A keypad could be a good choice. Did you buy them new or used on eBay?
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That's the combination of devices I have.
- Iris V2 keypad for Arming / Disarming via "others"
- Presence automatically Arming / Disarming for my wife and I.
It's been working very well. Especially since I also wired the keypad up to a UPS of sorts. (Home rigged charger and battery, both stored in a fire proof baggy - just for safety)
Yeah mate been running it for about a week now and it works a treat, I've got mine wired back to a UPS for power. I use it in the same manner as @njanda described. These are no longer sold so you need to buy a second hand one on eBay from the US.
Well I finally did it. Spent the princely sum of $19 to get another Tradfri repeater, took it apart and hooked up a rubber duck in in place of the existing PCB antenna.
The results? Mostly positive with LQI improvements to the Hub of about 40-50% in the few spots I had the normal repeaters already in place . There was one spot in the house where it didn't make any difference at all compared to a stock repeater which was a bit strange. I'll post it up separately when I get a chance after I do a bit more testing.
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Thanks @bigrizz , in step 1 where you unit manufacturer code into app, is this a code that I have to obtain from my blinds installer or the motor manufacturer or something that I can locate in the app?
Also where did you buy the neo smart controller? How much does it cost?
Cheers
Clarence
The manufacturer code for my blinds came from the instruction booklet I found on the Alpha website (Alpha is my blind manufacturer). You could with ask Neo directly - my experience with them responding to questions was very positive - or ask the blind manufacturer. I'm sure either would be happy to give it to you.
I bought mine from the US from Blinds Galore during one of their 50% off sales, which they seem to have quite often. They have a 40% off right now. Link here. You have to use a freight forwarder to get it to Australia as they don't ship directly to Oz. I already had an account with myus.com. All up with exchange rate, GST and postage, I think it was a bit over AUD$200? I think I posted about it before. No more than $220. I did that because the best prices I'd seen in Oz were much higher. I did see someone post on Whirlpool here saying they got a quote for $275. I sent an email to the company and never heard back. You might have more luck. If it's of help, you're welcome to use my freight forwarding account, if you don't have one and don't want to set one up. PM me and we can work through the logistics. It's handy to have an account and I've been happy with myUS for the couple of times I've used them, so that might be your best bet.
It's not cheap but if you've got a bunch of blinds, it's not too bad. Mine's been faultless so far.
I just had a quick look and found a couple of Australian places that sell them here and here. Could be worth a try in the first instance.
Hi guys, apologies if this has been covered elsewhere - I've tried to search for the answer but not found exactly what I'm after.
I'm looking for a smart in-wall dimmer, that has the following specs
- can function when my hub is offline
- has separate discrete inputs for on/off, dim up, and dim down
I currently have several Aeotec dimmers with a single Clipsal momentary push button, however I can't always guarantee which way it will dim when I hold it as it depends on which direction the last dim event was. (I also don't like the heaviness of the button contact as it's made for breaking 240Vac, but haven't chased up an alternative switch as yet)
I've spoken with Qubino tech support about their dimmer as it has three inputs however they've confirmed that you cannot configure the third input for a dimming function.
A nice to have would be adjustable delays for the push and hold function of the inputs too as I find the small delay before dimming starts to work a little annoying.
I'm getting picky, but trying to boost the acceptance factor of other family members and as I said would like lights to function in the event my network or hub goes down.
Thanks,
Dave
You could look at the Nue switches you can find them for sale on Amazon and EBay. You will need leading edge compatible downlights though so if your running trailing edge you will need to replace them but I am told these downlights work well.
Also if you don't care about them being AU/NZ approved then you could look down other routes too such as Shelly dimmers or even Tuya MCU based dimmers and run these drivers.
@daveh I'm considering the Shelly dimmers for similar reasons to you. Local control from the HE and ability to control via a momentary switch without the hub. They are releasing a version without the need for a neutral some time in Feb, so was looking at getting a few of those. On paper, they look pretty good. I think @anon61068208 has a driver for it already. Not sure if anyone's used it yet as the currently available dimmer is only fairly new too.
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Thanks for all the info. I will enquire locally first but if it is too expensive, I might give it a pass or get it from the US.
I only have 3 outdoor blinds to control but no biggie if they are not automated. I am still waiting for the development on Movez for all my existing indoor blinds.
Cheers
Not that I have these installed, so I could be completely wrong. But I thought that when you hold the button it always dimmed down.... 1st press on, then hold to dim... Then press again to turn off..
On the Bond forum, dxdc found this: “Rollease Automate ARC Dry Contact Control Interface - MTRF-DCIM-1C”
Now that was a gem! I’ve ordered 4 of these from eBay to control 4 channels. Won’t arrive for another 10-20 days though so won’t be playing with them just yet.
Now I won’t bother with getting the Pulse 2 hub, I’ll wait until there is Rollease support using the Bond Bridge instead 
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It's far from mature because my device was defective and I never got a replacement from Shelly.
That's disappointing. I was actually hoping to get the SL when it becomes available but now you're abandoning your Shelly driver work, I may have to rethink that.
I was checking these out on Ali earlier today. Thinking I might buy one to try out. Does anyone have knowledge of standard practice in Australia for wiring lights? Is there an issue with this requiring a neutral? I have 4 LED downlights on our deck connected to a single switch I'd like to control with a dimmer.
Looks fine and will need a neutral connected so it stays powered. Although i'm not sure if they've drawn the wiring diagram correctly. More than likely the L terminal will be the active and the N terminal Neutral.
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