Can you see/find 'Shelly-***' Wi-Fi network?
In my case it's 'ShellyPro2PM-EC62608DC75C'
So my solution is to use a Zooz Universal Relay S2. It allows me to use two inputs and gives me two relay outputs to Hubitat. I use a 12vdc wall wart to power it and that means there is only 12v going into the battery compartment and all electronics are outside including the transmitter. With the i4 I would need to have 120vac to the temp contacts in the box. And I doubt it's rated for that anyway. So I like this a lot better.
The temp sensor I'm using is a dry NO contact. I would prefer a NC contact so an open circuit would alarm, but no big deal.
The temp sensor is magnetized and I just stick it onto the inside of the bat box lid as shown below and here is a link to it. Thermostat Switch
The contact will not show up as a "switch" or any type of input in the Safety Monitor App, but they do show up as contacts in Simple Automation. So I created a virtual switch in SA and had the contacts activate the virtual switch and that switch as an alarm input and notification input in safety Safety Monitor App.
When the switch sees 120F it closes and Hubitat instantaneously sees the closure and alarms through safety monitor. I'm getting a phone text within five seconds.
I have two inputs, but if I wanted I could run multiple switches in parallel to add additional switches on each input circuit.
The only down side is the S2 is pretty large and takes up more space than I would like on my workbench. But I'm very happy with the results so far. I would have attempted to get the i4 working since it's so small but I really didn't like the 110 in the box going to the contacts and associated hardware and safety problems.
There you go. Let me know if you have any questions and THANKS for all the ideas in this thread folks. I really appreciate your time investment.
Thanks for the followup!
There are other sensors that can be made to work with that NO thermal switch, if you want something smaller. Some leak detectors have screw terminals for sensor wire, and you should get an instant response if the thermal switch closes.
Also, I use Ecolink contact sensors that also have screw terminals.
Battery, Z-wave. Good life for me.
I like the magnetic temp sensor; cool.
I looked for the Ecolink but didn't see anything with a screw terminal. Would you post a link please? And you also if you have something specific Horseflesh. I would certainly like something smaller if possible but able to maintain an immediate through-put and low voltage to the temp sensor.
Plenty of good answers here. But if I can make a couple of general comments:
Many chargers have provision for temperature probes to control charge cutoff/alarms?
Also I've never had a pack give an issue when stored AND charged to the proper storage level.
My thoughts on something like this would be not to use HE alone (similar to arguments regarding relying solely on HSM for home security) for situations which can potentially ruin your day. Run hardware monitors and use HE for additional peace of mind.
Hobbyist aircraft batteries do not contain internal temperature probes. I am also unaware of chargers with external temp probes or alarms. But if they exist it seems useless just to stop a charge. Generally temperature rise is sudden when a lipo breaks down. Stopping the charge at that point is not going to stop the breakdown and resulting fire. The horse left the barn and I want a sensor that will notify me wherever I am. Research Lipo 1,2,4 and 6S batteries. I utilize chargers with the most current technology available today for this application. They monitor the charge rate/voltage/amperage on the battery overall as well as on each cell and will balance the cells. YOU may not have had any problem with a Lipo stored at storage levels, but many others have. This exercise is only a "peace of mind" thing as you refer. All other cautions are already in place.
My comment specifically mentioned chargers not batteries. And B6 is one such charger that can also sound an alarm. I hope you are not ignoring the cardinal rule of not charging unattended?
See above. As I mentioned above, using HE or any other similar system is generally not recommended for mission critical applications. If you want a notification as a secondary measure, that's perfectly ok.
The principle behind lipo charger tech has not changed much in the last 10 years, including all the features you've mentioned. I've also been using RC lipos for over 10 years (mainly 3/6S) and do not need to research them further, thank you very much for the advice though.
Actually the advent of smart chargers has developed within the last 10 years. That is a huge change in charging tech. For example they now include features like the ability to measure battery internal resistance. Which is the technique I use to plot the condition of my batteries. The first chargers I used my RC Airplanes actually used a mechanical timer to charge them. So a bit of technology change there. And thank you very much for the advice too. I do hope you don't experience any problems with your batteries. And a bit of advice back... don't store them at 3.8 volts per cell and assume they will not fail. They still contain a lot of energy. Plus they are mostly made in China and you never know what the QC is or how they've been stored and handled prior to you possessing them. At least put them in something fireproof and/or outside your home.
Just checked my Turnigy accucell 6 which was first introduced in 2011 (13 years ago). It has all the features you mention and in fact also included internal resistance measurement for a short while in 2013. And BTW it too has provision to hook up a temperature probe.
(Mechanical timers went out the door so long ago but I still have mine sitting in a box somewhere. I just couldn't throw it out as it was the first charger I ever owned)
So the latest and greatest has been around for well over 10 years and not, as your earlier post would seem to imply, in the very recent past.
Of course lipos contain plenty of energy (especially those huge 6S packs) and need to be treated with the utmost care regardless (something that EV owners seem to take for granted). The whole point of storage charge (as you would know) is to reduce long term degradation, not to make them safer to store. Nonetheless they are safer at 60% than when charged to 100%.
Failure risk? As with all batteries, minimised (but not eliminated) by not buying no name batteries from unknown vendors.
Anyway I only came into the discussion to offer some thoughts (I listed 2 chargers in common use by the RC community with optional temp sensors if you need audible alarms) and a general word against using HE for critical applications in particular as it seemed that batteries might be left charging unattended. I have no interest in engaging in a debate about who knows more about RC battery safety. My own experience is that they are very safe when they are from a reputable manufacturer (ok I did neglect to mention this originally) and treated properly. YMMV.
I second that, lol. Although, couldn't the ZEN17 just bypass the mesh entirely and act as a relay to shut off power to the charger? No z-wave required.
https://www.amazon.com/Z-Wave-Magnets-Window-Sensor-DWZWAVE2-5-ECO/dp/B01N5HB4U5
I mentioned 2 chargers that can do that already without needing additional circuitry, just a temperature probe. But as the OP pointed out, if thermal runaway has commenced shutting of power isn't going to be of much use. That's why RC hobbyists are always very careful about not charging their batteries unattended (especially at high C rates) even with flameproof bags/containers.
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Good thing I don't have money to spend on this stuff, lol.
It sounds really cool.
When I was young, I had a gas powered plane on a string, lol.
That's extent of my model air plane flying.
Velvetfoot my first was a Carl Goldberg plane "Lil Wizard". I stared with CL also. Very cool you did too. Was yours also an .049 Cox powered? I have been an AMA member since the early 70s. So far,.. CL (stunt, slow combat, fast combat and carrier competitions) Then moved on to RC Planes (glow and Electric), Cars (too boring) Helicopters before there were any onboard stabilization. (I offer that flying Helicopters as keeping the crash above the ground) then Drones.( 6 and 7 Whoops, 5" racer, 7" camera) I still have each type of aircraft listed except CL. and I have two grandsons. I'm going to start them on CL also so that will be soon. You should get back into it. The hobby has totally changed.
No, alas. I lived in the city and think I flew it once on a dead end street.
I might have come close to killing someone, lol, although no blood was shed.
That's about the extent of my experience.
Lots of cool, but probably expensive toys now.
Too rich for my blood.
I understand that! Just FYI, a Mobula 8 whoop drone $110, Radiomaster ELRS transmitter $70. Goggles if you want to fly FPV $80, Charger $50 or less, and 2s batteries 4 for $30. The Mobula 8 can be flown in and outside. A very good learner drone that is difficult to destroy.
key, lol
This leak sensor has screw terminals.
I'd prefer a contact sensor just because a fire isn't a leak and I like good labels, but it should work.
https://www.amazon.com/THIRDREALITY-Notifications-Compatible-SmartThings-Batteries/dp/B08R9PS2KG
The modern R/C hobby is amazing and the entry point for something that's fun to fly (and easy to fix) is $100. Foam planes in general are hard to kill and many are very affordable. (Drones, I don't know anything about, I have a couple of old ones and hate flying them compared to fixed-wing.)
Granted, planes are easier to fly than drones. I still fly planes, but I am not a fan of the foam ones. The thing about drones is you can fly them in your house, garage, yard or small park. You don't need a flying field and perfect weather as you do with planes. And with modern controllers using INav or Betaflight in the controller, you can put them in Horizon or Angle modes and they practically fly themselves. Then you can go to Acro or other modes when you want to do freestyle or racing. Drones are also a lot of fun when you learn to fly FPV. Granted you can do that with planes too, but drones are just the thing for FPV. Get a tiny whoop drone and learn to fly in your garage or dining room any time you want. And if you hate Drones Horseflesh, don't even think about Helicopters! They make drones look like driving RC Cars. And being the idiot I am, that's why I do like them I guess. Eye/Hand co-ordination at level 11. I watch videos of the young folks turning them inside-out in videos and I only shake my head. It's incredible. Things I can't even dream of doing with a Heli https://youtu.be/p6vUAwdzy5M?si=VqCAVHS0KJ8Z43SC
My quads are old enough that they have only basic stabilization features, so they stay level in a hover.... No other flight assistance. My CP heli has zero stabilization. I have still never learned how to simply fly it in a circle without eating grass!
