Your setup is quite similar to mine.
I use Lutron Caseta devices throughout the house. They are easy to install, whether in 1 way, 3 way or 4 way installations. Lutron uses a special clear-connect protocol which resides at a frequency not used by other devices. That makes it very reliable and very robust. If you read other posts about Lutron, you will find that everyone who uses them loves them, but may not love the cost. I started by converting the most critical lights first and then added others a few at a time as finances permitted.
If you get a Lutron Pro bridge (not the less expensive normal bridge), the interface with Hubitat uses Telnet which is both reliable and fast. You can use motion sensors, contact sensors, time events, or voice activation through Amazon Alexa and Google Home Assistant to control your lighting with Hubitat as the control device.
If you are using dimmers, make sure all the devices are LED dimmable or incandescent. Fluorescent lights are not dimmable. Some LED bulbs are not dimmable. I have a couple of fluorescent fixtures, including one that is 4-way switched. I use one Lutron Caseta switch and two Pico Remotes. The nice thing is that the Picos connect directly with the Caseta switches or dimmers such that they continue to work even if the bridge goes down.
For 1-way installations, you simply replace the toggle switch with the Caseta dimmer or switch. Just make sure you turn off the breaker before working on the outlet.
For 3-way installations, you replace the primary switch location with a Caseta dimmer or switch. Then in the secondary location, you join the two traveler wires with a wire nut and replace the switch with a PICO remote which you then pair with the Caseta device. There is nothing unsafe about doing that.
For 4-way installations, you do the same thing as for a 3-way, but you now have two secondary locations where you need to join the traveler wires and install two Picos, both of which will need to be paired to the Caseta device.
If you have locations where plug in lamps are intended to be used rather than hard wired lighting fixtures, you have options. One is to use a Caseta dimmer that plugs into the wall and then is controlled by a Pico remote. The other option is to use Zigbee bulbs. If you want color control, then the Zigbee bulbs are the way to go. If all you want is on-off-dim capability, either will work. Just make sure you do not plug something into a dimmer plug that is not dimmable. I tend to use Zigbee bulbs (I use Phillips Hue), if the lampstand has only a single bulb. If it has multiple bulbs then purchasing several bulbs can cost more than a Caseta dimmer plug, so I go the Caseta route.
Good luck with your HA project, whichever route your choose. There are plenty of folks here who will be glad to help resolve any issues you might encounter.
From a reliability standpoint, the general concensus is that the order of reliability is as follows:
a. Lutron Caseta most reliable
b. Zigbee HA (as long as you use standard Zigbee devices). If you try to include non-standard devices such as Xiaomi/ Aqara, you might run into issues with some repeaters.
c. Z-wave- I have both Zigbee and Z-wave devices but spend far more time tending to the Z-wave devices than Zigbee. I use Z-wave only when no similar Zigbee device is available.
d. WiFI- Unlike Zigbee and Z-wave, WiFI requires that all devices be connected directly with a WiFi router or access point. This can work well, but if there is WiFi congestion due to other devices on the frequency (including your neighbors' routers), devices can lose connection with the router. My Ecobee WIFI thermostat and a couple of my Amazon Alexa devices occasionally lose connection and need to be power-cycled to reconnect. Thus, I have eliminated WiFi devices whenever possible.
